cmwr don’t forget to give us your feedback on the convoy 
So in a nutshell after every use it us,wise to remove the battery and put it back in its storage case? And I will let you guys know how I like my new convoy!
Figure out what you have — if you’re using li-ions you definitely should have a DMM and be checking voltage.
That’s fundamental to using these as single cells.
Once you’ve done the checks you’ll know if your device drains cells while turned off, and you’ll know if you have a low-voltage shutdown that works.
Then handle it accordingly.
there has been multiple threads on flashlights for biking/mtb, you might want to read up on those threads…
The S2+ is a great choice to wet your feet, it may prove suffice for your use, or not, only time and usage
will tell… FWIW, I’ve tried the S2+ and many other lights, both on bar and helmet.
You’d mentioned MTBing…
Since you’ve already ordered the 2fish mount, try it first. But the Fenix mount is rock solid and all those who
use it rec it:
~$12, use coupon code “alb10” as posted by M4D M4X
For helmet mount, I use strips of velcro, you might need to adjust the angle depending on your helmet.
For the handlebar light, I prefer a very wide floody beam and use DCFix. You can get it cheapest here:
Lastly, depending on how bumpy your trails and how fast you go, the light on the handlebar may rattle to its
early demise. Has happened to me. My handlebar light is sealed with potting material. If you’re buying from
MTN you prob could ask to have it done as well.
Have fun, be safe.
I actually think a nice bright light on the helmet would be just as good if not better than one on the bars. I can see what your saying about rattling too much. The thing I like about a helmet light is that where ever you turn your head the light follows. I am not even sure if you have a bright enough one on your helmet if a handlebar light is even necessary. I will have to experiment and find out.
A handlebar light lights up where the wheel is pointed.
A head-mounted light lights up where you’re looking.
You’ll need both (and your peripheral vision) at one time or another, to avoid trouble.
depends on your trail whether you need one or both. Even in daylight, some sections can be sketchy so no amount of light
is too much…
Those should be some pretty good cells.
Please prepare yourself, those you ordered might arrive without the shrink wrap.
Order some transparent shrink wrap to be on the safe side in case cells come without it.
There’s a discussion about it on FT, and no one officially stated if those cells have shrink wrap or not. Pictures are without.
[quote=cmwr]
With the convoys there’s no problem leaving your cells inside.
Even when they get low you’ll know there’s a blinky to tell you to charge your cells (good ol nanjg cell protection in convoys)
Just remember that:
-if you are not using the lights for a long period of time, charge the 18650’s to almost full before storage. (4.0v is ok. don’t fully charge them nor leave it hungry for storage)
-treat your 18650 like how you treat your brand new smartphone.
-observe your 18650 like a newborn baby when you are charging them up. (if it gets hot to touch you need to unplug things and run)
Like hank said, get a digital multi-meter (DMM.) I can’t see doing 18650’s without one. I consider 4.25V the pretty much absolute max, and try to keep them from going too much under 3V (some go to 2.5V, though.)
I got two cheap ones, they both said the same thing, (less than 1/100 difference when I tested, ) so they should be right imo.
The main thing that controls brightness is how many amps the led driver is sending to the led. If you know how to solder, you can change these, and the leds.
I think you are going to be around 1-2 A, between heat and battery life. That’s my guess. You can test amps with some DMM.