Newbie Torch Builder Looking To Build Hi Power UV 365nm

2.2A to that UV LED?
too much

…and keep in mind that UVLEDs do not like to be overdriven at all. Even the Convoy UV S2+ is slightly overdriven which can/will affect longevity. Try pushing even a little bit more through the LEDs than they’re rated for, and they may degrade very fast, or may just give it up entirely.

And when outputting lots of UV, you’d better be wearing UV-blocking goggles (unless glasses are a wraparound style) to keep from frying your corneas and/or retinas.

Even from the S2+, I get headachey after only a few minutes of snooping around. Thought it was my imagination ’til others here reported the same thing.

Ouch! The MCPCB is $0.96, the mounted LED shows up as $81. LedRise has them from €20 in multiple wavelengths.

233A and 333A are totally different LEDs in size and output
233A and B have only 2 pads on MCPCB which makes cooling a lot more of a problem, same with 276A and 276C

233A LxWxH (mm): 3,5x3,5x1,23
333A LxWxH (mm): 6.8x6.8x1.9

NCSU276C got also released with 1050mW at 500mA which is very very efficient

Thanks for that. I had assumed (incorrectly) that that would provide a margin of error and drive UPTO, not AT. Of course, as the led is the W version, upto 1500mAh, then i have opted for the 1.5a version of the driver which suits the led more without over driving it i hope. It will only be used for brief intervals anyway.

You might find djozz test with this UV led interesting. LG 365nm UV led tested (LEUVA33W70RL00, from Simon)
I modded a Lumintop Tool AA light with the LG LEUVA33W70RL00 led and used the stock driver which should be putting out around 2 amps.
It could be lower than that given the higher vf of this led over the original xpl hd. Just estimated guess from the original led.
I think I used a filed down 16mm copper mcpcb with the lg led reflowed on. Still has all the modes and the flashy, strobe modes in UV light :smiley: .
I really don’t see alot of stray white light, I know all the test show there is more than the nichia NCSU276A but to me it’s not that noticeable.
I got my S2+ with Nichia NCSU276A and the bare LG UV leds from Simon at the Convoy store on Aliexpress. He also sells the S2+ with the LG UV led now.
S2+ UV led history. About Convoy Flashlights | Way Too Cool LLC

I am glad you're getting some advice on this. However, from what I could tell, the majority of UV conversions on here are for low power, or single cell or close-up UV use only.

My purpose was to search for UV fluorescent caterpillars in countryside trees. So I converted an Air Pro DC7 (a BLF Q8 knock off with a simpler UI) to a 4x Seoul Viosys Z5 365nm light. Works very well and these LEDs have minimal visible light emission, though a custom ZWB2 filter is coming my way. The light works very well on high with minimal heat for a long time and if I need to see 30+ feet up into a tree I change to turbo for a short while (that will start to build heat though). I am curious to try that new LG LED, but the Z5 attracted me due to its relatively low visible emission.

You absolutely need UV protective glasses/goggles and I went so far as to put a warning on my creation and I keep it on electronic lockout.

One other point. A lot of people don’t consider that the “lens” on the light can really cut the % of 365nm light that gets through, so watch out for that - it is hard to discern the effect unless you have something that only fluoresces close to 365nm and not much higher. Obviously, a ZWB2 should sidestep that issue.

Can’t thank you all enough for the info.
Now comes the waiting as my parts arrive.

You’re welcome. Just make sure you’re handy with a soldering iron and you know how to remove and replace the LEDs. Make sure you have some thermal paste too. If you’re going to try the same light I used, be prepared to completely unscrew everything except maybe the side switch.

I’ve bought the tri led seoul led package but am not sure which host would be suitable.

Some artic silver thermal paste is on the way, i can solder so no worries there and i have a heat gun reflow kit if i hit any issues.

I’m guessing it fits one of the hosts they sell. Incidentally, I am not a fan of kaidomain - they masquerade as being in the Netherlands but my only order shipped from China and took over a month even with DHL shipping. I would rather use aliexpress.

Wow that is impressive. Which caterpillars fluoresce? Any pictures?

Someone up in this thread said that ZWB2 filters are difficult to find for odd sized flashlights but nowadays kaidomain carries a whole bunch of sizes (also for the S12).

http://kaidomain.com/search&search=Zwb2

I have bought and fried that exact board of UV leds by using a KD triple optic. A triple optic is the only thing that I know of that fits but UV gets absorb in the optic and overheats the leds and melts the optic :open_mouth: . The only way I see to make this triple work is with no reflector or optic just straight out the head, might work with a glass convex lens like in some of the cheap zoomie lights.
If you wanna go with a triple or quad UV led light use something that already has reflectors like mavortium suggested.

I bought that on a whim. it was an impulse purchase. Something for the future toy cupboard.

Perhaps some useful information here: https://www.naturesrainbows.com/single-post/FyrFly-Convoy-C8-365nm-The-Next-Generation-Convoy

We built this light (FyrFly) and provided details as a service to our hobby. It has since been copied and is offered by other manufacturers. I prefer using RCR123 and a short tube even though runtime is shorter - just carry extra batteries.

General comments - on my personal lights I have driven the LG LEDs to 2.2A with no issues (yet). Have also built an s12, driving the LG LEDs @700ma. Also built a C8F triple, currently my favorite - driving the LEDs at 1.1A. The triples have the advantage of a much wider beam (good for minerals) than the C8.

That is what i am basing my build on, just adding my own stamp so to speak.
I’ve been quite badly bitten by the flashlight bug and now have loads of parts and bits coming for me to play with.
I will document my building experiences.