I bought a NVSU233B U365 High Power UV-LED by Nichia and cannot get it to fire up. Ran a diode test on the star and all is good. My driver is out of an S2+ and the host is said S2+. I believe it’s the 7*7135 chiped one. I bought it from Simon months ago directly. So to all the hold hats out there, what is my idiot self doing wrong? Thanks fellas.
From a very recent experience ( 
). Did you connect the red lead to the + on the ledboard?
If you have a 7135*6 or 7135*8 driver, the driver is soldered to the pill. Connection is guaranteed.
If you have a 7135*3 or 7135*4 driver, the driver is mounted with a retaining ring. Tighten that ring.
Checking: 7135*6 and 7135*8 drivers have regulators mounted on the spring side. And solder blobs.
You might wanna try a shortcut. Remove the pill and the battery from the light.
Place the battery in an upright position. Place the pill on top of the battery (spring to + pole).
Then, try to manage a lead between the outside of the pill and the - pole on the battery. Very short!!!
If the led fires up, the trouble is with the switch. Have you tightened the retaining ring of the switch?
It is counter-clockwise.
PS what are the spec’s for you Nichia.
I have an older type, and that is at 1-mode already over-driven with a 7135*2 driver.
So be careful out there.
I’m not being lazy……I am incredibly intelligent and astrophysics is literally a hobby, but for the fricking life of me, I CANNOT understand electronics. My brain just….jumbles. Would you believe my father, stepdad, BOTH grandparents, and two uncles all had electrical training to get through college and got all their licenses and stuff? Yet I couldn’t wire a 3-way if my life depended on it. I can clearly explain the Hubble constant and the cosmic catasrophe in the rate of the acceleration of the universe in relation to the supposed age and how astronomy is literally in CRISIS. But nope, can’t wire your living room. I’m thorough and tedious and would do a great job putting in the fixtures and running the lines…it’s the termination part that I cannot grasp. The electrical terms I’m slowly learning. I started milling flashlights and decided I’m going to teach myself the electrical part of come hell or high water because I can mill a bomb-proof, amazing flashlight, but the guts are where it’s mostly at and I don’t know how to do it. So, in summation, here is the link where I bought the UV Light from and I fear it’s $25 down the drain as it fails the diode test now……
Here’s a cheaper option with a bit more power handling UV led.
driver - Shop Cheap driver from China driver Suppliers at Convoy flashlight Store on Aliexpress.com -?
2450ma might have been a little too much current for the Nichia. Seems like I’m usig a 4-amc7135 driver in my S2+ and it does get a little warm.
Djozz gave us some pretty useful test data for output using a LG UV led. LG 365nm UV led tested (LEUVA33W70RL00, from Simon)
Use a copper mcpcb and looks like from Djozz’s graph staying around 2100ma (6-amc7135 driver) might be the sweet spot, 2450ma (7-amc7135 driver) if you wanna push it.
I’m honestly thinking of offering $5 through PayPal to whoever can tell me the best option for a UV Light, whether it be something from Simon or build on my own, with a link to do it and the reasons why. Might even do $10. Apparently I need my hand held for this. Is the 365UV from Simon’s store more than adequate? I’d don’t want a supposed “uv”, I need the actual real thing. Strangely, I’ve not found a s2+ review on here with the newest led’s he uses. And from what I’ve seen, he’d do well to put it into a C8, no?
You have never really said what your using the UV light for so that’s a pretty broad spectrum of UV leds.
Save your money and just buy a completed light. The convoy S2+ is probably the most popular one, Jaxman being the second.https://www.amazon.com/s?srs=18206791011
I think simon has used the LG and the Nichia in the S2. The LG would have more output and the Nichia less stray light. A filter can be added to either one to reduce stray light and the Jaxman comes with the filter already. Simon also sells the filter for the S2 but they can be picked up in several different places. https://convoy.aliexpress.com/store/330416/search?origin=y&SearchText=uv
I’m not sure if simon made a C8 UV light or if they were modded just using the host but I have seen them around.
https://www.naturesrainbows.com/single-post/FyrFly-Convoy-C8-365nm-The-Next-Generation-Convoy
I have the Nichia version S2+ and I changed the amc7135 350ma chips out for 380ma amc7135’s to bump the current slightly, I think it had 3 chips instead of 4 I quoted in my previous post and the current bump was done by using the 380ma chips.
I use it alot in curing UV resin and its plenty powerful enough to do the job well. Mine has no filter and emits almost no visible white light.
I have modded lights using the LG UV led and they also work well but have more visible white light, not alot but more than the clean looking Nichia. A ZWB2 filter could be added to clean that up.
My first thought would be Vf of LED is to high.
NVSU233B U365 has Vf about 3.85V at 1A, depending on bin it may be even 4.2V.
amc7135 needs about 0.12V headroom.
In the end 4.2V LiIon may not be enough.
To run UV LED from 1 LiIon safely and with regulation you need buck-boost driver.
Do you have 4.35V Li-Ion? Try it if you do.
If not you can try 3 alkalines in series or 4 NiMh and see if you get a light.
amc7135 should be good to 6V input.
LED spec
https://www.nichia.co.jp/specification/products/led/NVSU233B-E.pdf
Note that UV LEDs in general have higher Vf then white LEDs, and 365nm Vf is higher than for 385nm or 395nm.
Because of that some (especially higher UV lenght) may work with linear driver but all will fall out of regulation quickly as battery voltage goes down.
You may put UV LED together with linear driver and it works but you may not be aware that is not regulated at all output just restricted by voltage.
You would not really see it if it lights.
My NVSU233B ran at 4.1V at 1.4A, so I decided to make a Buck/boost driver which i made only 3 pieces single mode without MCU
if the voltage bin is lower you may kill the emitter with >2A
I bought one of those AA “LIGHTFE” UV lights on amazon with the nichia 365nm and it seems to perform well.
moderator
Out of curiosity I would check current pulled from battery at high to see if it is regulating anything.
AA light must have a boost driver so it will work.
A proper buck boost would work best but the amc7135 driver puts a limit on current. No matter if the battery sag doesn’t even make the vf for the set current.
It creates a safety, if the battery has a higher voltage than the vf of the led at 1.4 amps then thats all that the led will see and doesn’t over drive it burning it up.
This regulation may only last the first 5 minutes of use but it keeps the led safe and UV leds are notorious for burning out.
The LG has a much lower vf and does work better with the run of the mill amc7135 linear regulator driver.
I can check the current later on tonight just to see how the linear regulator does hold up with the Nichia.
I took the whole light apart and checked everything out to be sure this time 
.
Looks like the S2+ I have is the NCSU276A led using two amc7135’s and both were changed to the 380ma version.
Testing with a 30Q I got 760 ma for several minutes, it was regulating until I decide there was a easier way. I hooked it up to my bench power supply.
The current held at 760 ma until the voltage fell below 4.0v then current fell with voltage. At this low current I suspect a 30Q would hold above 4.0v for awhile.
I have the 276A and the op is referencing the 233B from what I see in both datasheets the vf might be close to the same when driven over the vf current spec.
276a list 3.8 vf at 500 ma and the 233B list 3.85 vf at 1000 ma so if we are over driving both over that spec then I would think they are close in vf to that 4.0v I tested with the 276a. I tested it running through the driver installed in the light and not at the led but that number should be close to what the battery is seeing with a little less at the led. I have not seen a current to vf test with the 233B but from what Lexel reported at 4.1v and what I saw with the 276A, the 233B needs to be current limited for that first few minutes with a good 4.2 cell. Just my two cents.
Don’t know which LED is in there but my L2P with D26 Ledengine 365 nm 3 level regulated with filter seems to be a tad bit better than my Convoy S2+ nichia 365nm with filter. However for price difference go with the Convoy.
Hit the thermal star again and I have juice. I bought a wowtac A2S (great little headlamp with an elbow) and have the battery out of it. It states: 3.6v , 12.24Wh, 3400mAh and “for high drain devices.” Doesn’t give any other numbers. Most DEF see it light up and there was a touch of smoke from the flux residue I left on it. Could this theoretically be hooked to a cell phone charger that’s 5V and 1Amp?