If reflector cup design to hit 1km, sbt 90.2 might be suit for it??
efficiency : it draw a way too much current, 20A? and not giving it best perfomance, instead overperform and exhausted in the initial turbo…but not that bad, probably its host undrestimated high current passing…
In terms of heat shedding, the host is as good as it gets. Probably the only thing that can be done to extend turbo is to use a copper shelf/pill like the Nightwatch IRA that used to be available from Enogear.
If this thing can hit 240kcd, that’s pretty impressive already since the head size is about the same as a GT Mini and D1S which only throws 130kcd.
Don’t you think that it still have very big room for improvement? I think so…bcos it supposed to beat gt mini and d1s
Actually, I didn’t have a 40t in the light when doing the testing. It was a red 5500 vapcell 26650. So it can possibly hit 300 with a 30t 21700.
So I got 5300 lumens at 30 secs. Nice output!
5500 lumens with the 30T at 30sec?!! Holy Cow!! Please remeasure the throw. 
My Acebeam K75 only gets 4,100 lumens at turn on.
Everything has pros and cons. This light beats the gt mini and d1s in brightness (by a lot) and in hot spot size. It beats the gt mini in distance as well according to my gt mini results of 148kcd = 769m.
Toykeeper measures the D1S at 124kcd / 703m.
Where do you see room for ANY improvement?
Very big room for improvement? Would you like a flamethrower instead? That heats up things quicker.
Found it on Youtube, from our generous Thai pal, Sawadikrap….
You can check up with him, he also do some calculation in term of Lumen, CD and range Meters…Dude, he has all the tools, coools
The only thing you could do to improve turbo runtime would be to use quite the experimental setup…
Basically, you’d use a copper pill and all of the empty space needs to be filled with a high melting point, as a sort of TES.
Basically, you’d fill part of the light with high melting point paraffin wax.
TLDR: A PCM (phase change material).
Yes, switching modes feels bad. You need to press it deep enough or the light flickers and might jump a mode while switching. The bad spacing doesn’t help when you think that you didn’t actually change the mode at all.
It’s safe to say the memory for turbo is defective. It will memorize turbo maybe 2 out of 10 times. I tried so many times, my thumb hurts. Memorizing all other modes work fine though.
I hope they fix this issue. I purchased three of these lights too, I hope the other two won’t have this issue. I’ll report once those arrive.
In this video he’s getting 20A from a Vapcell 5000 which is a worse cell than the shockli 5500. If the 40T is doing 22A and it’s 32% brighter than the shockli, then the shockli must be like 15A or 16A which doesn’t make sense since the vapcell 5000 which is not as good is doing more than that.
He has an ammeter and a lux meter, but no integrating sphere or similar device. He doesn’t seem to know the best way to use the tools he has. For the lux meter you don’t use the hold function. Output drops over time and you want to get the lux at 30 seconds. His throw numbers are going to read a bit high based on this alone, not much higher, just a little.
With the ammeter test you also want to use 30 seconds. He did about 6. At least we can see Turn On amps and how fast the output was dropping.
He wrote down lumens, but I’m not sure how he got those numbers.
Why do think his Vapcell 5000 is so bad? I don’t think HKJ or Mooch has tested it, but I did find a review from Zeroair. He shows it to be a pretty impressive cell.
If you compare amperage, make sure they are measured over the same time. Like both at 1 second or 5 seconds, etc…
Where do you get 32% brighter? Measured by same person, same integrating sphere and over same amount of time? I think you are comparing Nagonka measurements with blueb8llz. Do they both use clamp meter with thick wire? IDK. Do they have identical integrating spheres calibrated the same? IDK. Are they both measuring at Turn On? IDK. There are too many variables. I would not directly compare them unless I knew more about how they tested them. So do any comparisons with a grain of salt. Don’t take it as both being 100% accurate. We at least have a good idea on lux and amps. Lumens still seems to vary a lot simply because I don’t know how they measured it.
Give it a nice e-switch ui and remove that tail clicky. Then add a shorty tube option.
Nagonka measured both the 40T and Shockli. 40T was 4950 at turn on and 4000 at 30s. Shockli (PLB 55A) was 3750. He didn’t say what it was at 30s but I’m guessing it didn’t drop as hard as the 40T. If you look at zero airs review of both the Vapcell 5500 (PLB 55A) and 5000 there’s a clear difference in performance at 20A.
I am glad no step down after 3 minutes. :sunglasses:
I hope website is wrong. On Neals website it states: 2.Temperature control, 50°C will step down
Yes, but I mean in performance. Lol
E switch and better UI for sure.
Then again, take a good light running a FET driver with NarsilM or Anduril and a 50.2 or 70.2 and just swap in the sbt 90.2. :+1:
Why don’t we make our own BLF light with a 21700 and side switch?
I found Zeroairs review of the 2 cells, the 5000 definitely sees more voltage sag at 20A, but not right away.
At initial turn on, the Vapcell 5000 performs right there with the PLB 5500mah. See they both dip about the same 3.65v-3.70v. So they both probably pull the same 20A at first, it’s just the 5000 cell will start to dip more after a few minutes.
Here I added Zeroairs results to HKJ’s test to better illustrate.
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Sure, it only takes a year or two and the time and resources of key members here. :confounded:
It’s quicker and easier to adapt an existing design. Besides, some company might beat BLF to market. Usually BLF models need to be unique enough in some way that makes it worth the effort. We may start seeing similar lights with this emitter soon.