I bought an atomic clock after my quartz quit.
The clock takes two AA batteries, and the outdoor temperature sensor takes two AA batteries.
The manual says: Alkaline batteries are recommended for use in both units. Avoid using rechargeable batteries.
As usual, they don’t give a reason why. I thought maybe because some nimh are not LSD, and would fail sooner than the alkalines. The manual says that the alkalines should last about two years.
In this setup video, the manufacturer is careful to say that the batteries installed should be dated at least six years ahead of the installation year.
I have not tried the eneloops yet. Any thoughts here?
I have a similar unit. I have used Eneloops in it and I have used Alkalines in it. I use only Alkalines now. The Eneloops worked, but they did not last as long. The outdoor temperature sensor on mine, takes AAA batteries. The NiMHs would last about 5 months before the sensor would fail to work. The Alkalines (duracell), will last one year before the sensor fails. The indoor unit was closer to the same. The Eneloops would last about 6 months and the Alkalines last about 8 months.
I believe the reason for this is Voltage, not amperage. From what I see, when the batteries get below a certain voltage, the units go out. The Alkalines would naturally be a higher voltage and in a very low drain application, they would maintain voltage for a long time. The NiMHs would naturally be a lower voltage and would get lower quicker, because they are lower to start with.
That's my feeling about them. The unit we have has been going for around 5 years now and I now change the Alkalines every 6 months, just as a regular maintenance thing. As the batteries get weak, the indoor unit's display gets dim, but does not go out.
i use desk clock with a temperature room using single AAA battery,it won’t on with NIMH maybe because it was only 1.2v when it need 1.5 to work and it last about 3 years right now
I use eneloops in all the household devices which usually get placed back into a charging tray of sorts after use; like my telephone, or the computer mouse.
All of my standalone devices (except the game camera) are are being fed a steady diet of Energizer lithium primaries (bought in bulks, they are quite affordable. Whether or not they really do last longer has yet to be determined; I’ve got 9V lithium block cells in all my smoke detectors; since last november, none has started to complain about low voltage, yet)
In the old days nicads seemed to not be able to put out amperage constantly they seemed to have amperage hiccups every now or then (once or twice an hour or so) in low draw applications
I assume eneloops have solved this problem but I still have a background feeling this could still be part of the issue in addition to lower voltage
Lol I just wowed because I thaught that it is a real atomic clock… :bigsmile:
I have a similiar device I use normal alkaline batteries in it and replace them every two/three years in both devices. On mine the temp blinks if the battery depletes and then I change all batteries, the clock still works but with new batteries its always blacker than before…
I don’t use rechargeables for applications which aren’t needing high current or aren’t depleting more than once in a year….
In former times I used old batteries for remotes and clocks, but I had a lot leaking ones so I never do that again. I have here some duracell AAs with date code until 2018 which are leaked…not sure why this happens sometimes but I guess high discharge currents…
If you use NiMH, and they run for 5 months before they run down, you will never be able to get enough charge-discharge cycles to recoup the higher initial cost! False economy.
In these type of devices, just use inexpensive alkalines and be happy to save the money.
I have a couple of cesium beam oscillators (true primary standard atomic clocks), many rubidium oscillators (a secondary atomic standard), and a gaggle of GPS disciplined oscillators (more accurate in the long term (over a few hours) than even the cesium beam oscillators).
You can get a very nice GPSDO setup for less than $200. I just checked the stats on mine, and over the last two weeks it was never more than 1.2 nanoseconds off. The 10 MHz output signal was stable to well under 100 parts per trillion. Notes on Trimble Thunderbolt performance and modifications
And if i already have some extras i keep for long excursions or emergency situations, should i let them sit unused and buy alkaleaks?
Thats no more economic. I do agree with you that buying them for just low drains where they will see too few charges to recoup cost, but on sale less then 5 charges of an eneloop will cover an alkaleak if eneloop will work just as well with its lower voltage
In here it would eat the price in 4-7 years compared to generic alkaline.
I still use alkalines in my temp sensor but I like the idea of Eneloops.
You never really run out of them like you do with alkalines… If I have them laying around, I use them in whatever if no alkies on the shelf.
I did find this in the FAQ of another product (weather station) by the same manufacturer:
Batteries
Half of all warranty issues can be resolved with fresh batteries of the appropriate voltage.
We suggest name brand alkaline batteries for indoor displays such as Forecast Stations.
Use batteries dated at least six years in advance of the current year. Batteries dated earlier
than six years from now may still work, but may be unstable in performance.
Alkaline batteries manufactured this year will have an expiration date 10 years in the future.
Battery technology has improved and batteries will maintain voltage longer in storage. However,
the environment the batteries reside in for the 10 years can deplete the power.
Good name brand batteries make less noise, which reduces the chance of RF (radio frequency)
interference from the battery compartment. A minimum voltage of 1.48V for
each battery is necessary for proper performance.
Outdoor Transmitters: Use Alkaline batteries (or Lithium for temperatures below –20°F/-28.8°C)
Indoor Displays: Use alkaline batteries. Overpowered or underpowered batteries may
cause loss of indoor readings, missing segments, dim display etc.
With all the talk in the OP video about using name brand alkaline batteries, I tried to identify what batteries are actually used in the video. Looks like a blue color. And alkalines don’t usually have 2000mah written on the side.
My detective work led me to Topcel rechargeabe alkalines! Not exactly a USA name brand. And what about the printed instructions to avoid rechargeables? http://www.changshang.com/ProductShow/p67157.html#
Will Caesars never wonder. Ooops, excuse me. That should be will wonders never cease.
Edit: I guess if they used Duracells, then Energizer would have a hissy fit, and vice versa.
If you don’t want to (or, for whatever reason, can’t) run NiMH in your clock, what about Energizer L91 Ultimate Lithiums? They seem like they would be especially good in the outdoor sensor. Yes, they’re expensive and non-rechargeable. But they will last longer than alkalines. And they won’t destroy your clock by leaking.
this sounds like a cop out, alkalines also have great variation in performance, i would assume this is easier to say then use brand A, B or C in nimh, and/or our device is designed for 1.5V not 1.2V
The manufacturer says: Indoor Displays: Use alkaline batteries. Overpowered or underpowered batteries may cause loss of indoor readings, missing segments, dim display etc.
Not sure if lithiums would be considered overpowered batteries in this low drain application. The manufacturer gives the OK for lithiums in the outdoor sensor/transmitter if the temperature is below –20F. Their exact comments are: We recommend alkaline batteries for the transmitter. You may choose to use lithium batteries for temperatures below - 20°F/-28.8°C.
At the end of the day, I might close my eyes and try some lithiums. I have approval from my inner cheapskate.
Right now, I have alkalines installed with a 2019 wrapper date (6 years ahead of the installation date).
