Mine also finally came today. It is a bright light and as throwy in nature as a E21. Bright throwy lights can’t show themselves indoors but I tried to make a comparison at 3 meters anyway.
47s Quark AA2 in XP-G S2 (greenish) version
Fenix E21, 150 Lumens version,
Nitecore MT21A, XP-E2, 260 Lumens
MT21A is just in between Quark and E21. Shiny anodization like a Quark and best part is HEADS and TAILS MATCH WITH QUARK.
The emitter is an XP-E2, next to an XP-G and an XP-E.
I received mine from andrew-amanda.com yesterday which was my first order from them. Before I say anything about the light, I just have to say that andrew-amanda’s service is first rate! They shipped super fast and kept me informed of my order’s progress. Doesn’t get any better.
Now on to the MT21A. Build quality is excellent and the shiny HAIII anodizing on my example is flawless and looks wonderful. Feels good in hand and is smaller than I expected. Beam quality is good and very white but I do perceive just a very, very slight hint of green in the middle of the hotspot but nothing to complain about. It’s throw is very good as advertised and like Kokopelli said, the low mode is fine with me.
Tail activation is okay and takes a firm push to activate. Like all lights, I wish this had a side switch instead of the tail switch which is much more intuitive to me and I don’t intend on using this light in a tactical application.
My only complaint with this light is being that I’m an older guy and don’t like complexity just for complexity’s sake, I’m not a fan of today’s UI’s.
I like simple and even though this light’s UI isn’t anything as complex as some lights nowadays, I wish it was just click on, half press to cycle through, (and starting with), low/med/high and then turbo and remember where you were when clicked off. This “head tightening” for turbo to me is just complexity for complexity’s sake.
I have no use for strobe or SOS modes but it’s okay I guess as there are some folks who like those modes.
All in all, it’s a nice light and worth the money I paid for it, ($28.00 with free shipping), so I can’t complain too much!
[quote=Gebe]
I like simple and even though this light’s UI isn’t anything as complex as some lights nowadays, I wish it was just click on, half press to cycle through, (and starting with), low/med/high and then turbo and remember where you were when clicked off. This “head tightening” for turbo to me is just complexity for complexity’s sake. :)/quote]
I actually like the head twist UI for the same reasons that you don’t. I find the fact that head tight = always max output gives a simple certainty about what you will get which you miss out with the scroll through mode interfaces of many cheaper lights. For the sake of simplicity I would also prefer head loose to be fixed to low mode so that you get the same certainly with that, but the extra modes could come in handy and max is probably the most used mode for a thrower anyway.
Even at 1000ma the XM-L2 puts out 450 lumens vs the XP-e2’s 240.
For a few $$ more they could upgrade the driver to accept 2xAA through 2x14500, simplify the modes (to suit the different battery types) and go XM-L2. Then you have a stand-out torch rather than just another contender in an already complex and over-crowded market sector !?
The build quality looks superb !!. I especially like the look of the checkering, with additional texture (aka rhombic knurling - apparently) on each pad, as it appears on the HD pics.
I think it would actually be much more difficult and costly to include a buck/boost circuit with such a broad voltage range, 2x 14500s is 8.4v max. The XM-L2 would offer more lumens but in such a small head wouldn’t offer much throw at all. The idea for the MT21A was a slightly cheaper and mass-market 2xAA light than their main models, and also to specialise in throw, a corner of the market that is still quite open for 2x AAs. I would say that the choice of XP-E2 is really what makes the MT21A stand out as it is.
I’m sure we’ll continue to see 2xAA XP-G2 and XM-L2 ‘flagship model’ lights released in the future with a bit higher output but in conjunction with a higher price point.
This is the oddest method of finding out shipping I've ever seen. Buy the product, confirm payment and THEN we'll let you know how much it's going to cost you.
Sorry - no thanks
Quoted from their website.
International Customers
Shipping cost varies from country to country, it also depends on the package weight, size and shipping option and carrier chosen. We do not overcharge the shipping cost. Please go ahead to check out and pay for the cost of the products, we will process your order, contact you and bill you for the ACTUAL shipping cost. Thank you.
We can agree to disagree RedForest. I understand what you’re saying but I want to tighten the head and just leave it alone. However, if I do have to loosen the head, I really like your idea of “head loose” automatically defaulting to low mode.
Is the beam pattern pretty narrow and very tightly focused, or is there some useable spill for lighting up the 20-50 meter range ? I like the idea of being able to reach out into the distance, but am wondering if as a compromise you lose quite a bit of short range beam spread. Can anyone who owns the light speak to this ?
There’s definitely some spill as it’s not as narrowly focused as some long range lights and other non-long range lights have more but I’m satisfied with the beam. The hotspot is very large which I lalso like.
"There’s definitely some spill as it’s not as narrowly focused as some long range lights and other non-long range lights have more but I’m satisfied with the beam. The hotspot is very large which I lalso like." - Gebe
Thanks Gebe ! I'm looking for a 2xAA to keep by the back door. I don't need to light up the whole neighborhood, but something with a bit of extra punch seems useful. I think the MT21A might work for me. I was concerned that it might have such a tightly focused beam that there wouldn't be any useful short-range spill.
For your use phosphor, I think you’ll like it but others can chime in here with their opinions.
As an aside, I’ve been trying to break loose the threaded insert inside the tailcap to get at the rubber boot cover and change it out with a GITD one. Man, Nitecore sure doesn’t want you in there!
I’ve soaked it overnight with WD-40, heated it, and nothing will break it. I’ve used circlip pliers and angled needle nose pliers and can get a good grip on the insert but it just won’t break!
If it’s left hand threads, you’ve now got it super tight. Double check the start of the threads if possible and try to determine which direction the threads run before you end up tearing something up….the light, your tools or yourSelf!
Thanks for the suggestions folks. Nah, I tried it backwards and forwards and even put it in a padded vise to keep the tailcap from rotating with no luck. This thing is locked in there like a bank vault! I’ve never had one I couldn’t break but this is it .
Well, if you really really want in, you could try drilling the indents out and making them full holes, then make a tool to get a much better grip…say an aluminum bar with 2 drill bits spaced to match the holes.
Push come to shove, you could always split it with a dremel tool. (the retaining ring, I mean)
Actually Dale, I thought of that but the holes are deep enough that I can get a really solid purchase with my circlip pliers which have very strong tips and still can’t budge the dang thing. I don’t think I want to split the the threaded retaining disc.
It’s weird that Nitcore would include an extra rubber switch boot with no way to replace the original, at least on my example. I guess I’ll just have to live with the black boot.
Oh yeah, if anyone has any luck getting theirs out, please let me know!
