I had to completely reshape the ends of the clip to get it to both grab the chip and make a solid electrical connection at the same time, which it definitely would not do straight out of the box. Also used a much softer spring.
I did the same thing comfychair. I think I might be on my 3rd or 4th 3M clip as I either ruin them when adjusting them, or the pins just wear out over time and no longer make a connection. They aren't cheap either.
I was cutting tips a little on my clip and also bending contacts… I hope I didn’t ruin it beyond repair… I’ll definitely try to setup clip like comfychair in the future… but for now, I’ll just SOLDER… It only takes a minute or so to solder 6 wires (might only be needed 5 for for now I’m not sure so I go with 6)… it’s not such a big deal and beats ordering and then waiting for darn clip to arrive… 
Oh, I see what you did there… lower portion middle contacts are absent completely… that way you’re always 100% sure how to attach the clip… cool…
Anyone else thinks that 2, 20 and 100% for modes might make this driver even better (as if it’s not awesome already) ???
DrJones,
It's a lot to ask, but would you be willing to release the source for NLITE? 100% understand if you don't, but then people would be able to adjust the mode levels as they wish.
+1 - I've gone through dozens of these with programming them... Rare to find a bad one.
he already released luxdrv which has 7 modes and battery indicator with step-down, only thing you can’t do in luxdrv is change order of modes by soldering stars or enable/disable mode memory in same manner, you have to build separate hex file each time you want some specific functions and modes…
Right, I've been using luxdrv for quite a while and customizing it to my liking. I'm just too lazy to implement the stars pulling inputs low :) It's a feature that's great for building lights for friends, since if they want to add memory back in later on or get rid of moonlight I don't need to reprogram the driver, only change the stars.
indeed it is a great feature, I would also like to have one pin of MCU programmed as a output for a small smd led which would be used as an battery indicator (somewhere around the switch) instead of blinking signals via emitter, but I don’t know how to do that 
… yet
I would love that too, especially since I installed an illuminated switch in my SRK. Just haven't had the time to research doing that.
Tried to load this program on this driver, but I'm getting a failure message on the lfuse (says set to 72 and mismatches 79). I haven't had this problem before. This is a new batch of drivers. I tried it on some old drivers and it loads fine. Anyone have any ideas on what is going wrong or how to fix the problem. Here is a screen shot:
I've had this issue once or twice, but have bought dozens of these. Is it the same problem with just with one or several? I haven't bought any in a while now - had purchased a large batch. I've also gotten a similar error when the clip wasn't on just right, but re-positioning the clip worked. I'm thinking the 1 or 2 I couldn't get to program at all was because of something different with the MCU's pin positioning or soldering, causing poor contact with the clip's pins.
Thanks Tom E. It seems to be all the drivers that had 2 mode groups. If I set the lower fuse to 0x72, the high fuse then errors out. If I also set the high fuse to 0xfd, the program is loaded without error. This is the case with all the 2 mode drivers I have. I haven't tried to use one yet, but will report back as soon as I do.
Its a shot in the dark, but I always issue a "-e" command as some drivers didn't flash right until I performed an erase.
Thank you JonnyC.
That fixed the problem.
Sweet!
I always perform erase before writing new sw. I found that without this driver often acts like nothing happened, writing was good, no errors but retains previous sw behavior!!!
Yeah, that's exactly what was happening to me without the erase. Although I think I did notice that it was failing verification after the write but I just wasn't noticing the message.
Do you do the erase separately or just add -e into the command to flash?
avrdude -p t13 -c usbasp -u -e -Uflash:[...]?
I always just issue it first before doing any flashing.
If I bridge all stars to ground I get: HMLM and no memory… right?
Is no memory, no memory or short cycle memory?…If I am in low and want to go to moon is this possible?
I am also confused about the avrdude commands above, I read here
“Recommended fuses are low: 0x75, high: 0xFF.”
but i read in this thread 0x79…?
Another issue I had lately is that if I am in a a mode i needed to doubleclick to change to next mode, was this always the case on nanjgs??? Because i find that weird.