Tom! You pointed me at that big HK90 and I mentioned it to Manxbuggy1 and he couldn’t resist! Ordered it straightaway! Always out for max power, that boy!
Thank you for all information
So I was reading Tom E’s mods on the K1, green?
Is there anything to do to up a ‘regular’ K1 W1/ W2.1 ?
Or is it limited to the 650kcd?
Thanks, great reading guys !
All depends on the amps. from what Hank has been telling me, the driver is not custom tweaked for each LED, so I suspect it's running 4.9 amps. So for the W2.1, I think 7-8 amps is the range -- have to check in the LED thread. I ordered 2 K1 drivers and a W2.1 LED mounted on a 32 mm MCPCB - basically replacement parts.
One plan is modding a BLF GT with the W2.1 and using the K1 driver (piggyback it in), I'll have to see when I get the parts and time.
Cool! It's an animal light Actually this morning I did a tear down, not complete yet, but enough to see what's goin on:
- single MCPCB with 3 pairs of wire connections
- so 3 and 3 wires from the driver, looks like 20 AWG wires
- same driver design as the HK04, as suspected: twin high powered FET's, resistor/small FET low channel
- the reflector is some what trimmed down from what the Shocker reflector was, but it's still a mass chunk of alum. Almost like they copied my Shocker mod of reflector trimming (
) - really weird stuff - there's a copper plug used in the middle where the screw holds down the reflector - the plug is hollow like a pill, and over the screw head they filled the hollow area with thermal grease, and capped it with a thin alum plate. I'll post pics in the HK90 thread - it's weird, never saw anything like it and don't understand how that all helps much. It's not classic potting really. I could understand using thermal grease between the copper plug and alum, but they didn't - the contact points were bone dry.
- I ordered mine from Neal with a discount code he gave me (asked him), in sand color which is more brown than lighter sand
Interesting. I know that Hanks driver in the K1 does a very good job of supplying power to the outrageously hungry 90.2, yes some tweaks can help but it’s already doing a really good job.
I’ve gone the multiple wire multiple FET route before and in the end found it really made little difference. My 17 emitter mod with a Q8 as a host had wires galore and 4 drivers, with issues blowing the 7135’s. So eventually I just ran the single base Q8 driver with a better MOSFET and it does about the same numbers. Gotta be pulling a ton of amps but the one FET seems to handle it well. 8 Samsung emitters, 8 XP-L HI, and a single 3V 50.2.
I love my Noctigon lights, whether left stock or tweaked. When Hank announced the K1 I just knew I had to get one! I think my original one is the White Flat, very tight fat laser like beam profile. Then the 90.2 took everybody by storm and I had to have another! 
Is there a next?
I don’t use built in chargers so I’m considering removing the charging board and making a copper filler to carry the current, I am betting the amps will go up if I do that. I put the 90.2 in one of my CU/SS X6’s and it can put out over 6000 lumens from an 18650 25S. If I remember right it was doing 24A. Have to dig stuff back out and take some readings. I normally will keep the charger but use it outside of the light. With better chargers able to do 3A to the cell directly and allow me to monitor temperatures while charging it’s just easier to pull the cell and go that route. (for me, of course, YMMV)
JFTR, it pulls 23.8A from the same 30T cell with the charging circuit removed. Not much difference really so the throughput of the charger is very efficient.
Is this still in reference to the K1 SBT90? I don’t use internal charges and was curious when you said you thought removing it and adding a a copper plug may increase the amps. If so, you had pulled that thing apart quick and tried it! 
just awesome how you guys just tear things apart and try to improve. also cool to hear Hank has engineered everything pretty thoroughly! love my emisars / noctigons!
Thanks for all of the awesome info you are sharing here.
TomE, thanks to you too!
In messing with this K1 my driver came loose (because I spring bypasses with 18ga no doubt). So I found skinny little 22 ga leads going to the 90.2. Obviously thats enough by the readings I got but I have this thing about not leaving well enough alone so I refitted it wit honkin big 16 ga leads! D) Now it does 6200 lumens at start, quickly dropping to 5900 and then slowly creeping to 5700 before it was too hot to keep running.
Edit: That’s with the charger installed. Cant do anything about making that copper bit due to weather.
Oh yeah, forgot to mention… also popped the AR coated glass window off the 90.2 before putting it back together, so those last lumens readings are with it naked. 
Dale - I did almost the exact same thing, first bought a K1/W1 (green though), then just had to buy the K1 w/SBT90.2. I got a decent collection of Emisar and Noctigon lights, except the new tail e-switch ones, but have been tempted many times. Let me see, for the newer generation: D4, D4SV2, D1, D1S, and 2 K1's. I've been close to ordering a KR1 and D4V2 brass several times, but been resisting. It's hard to buy any light not on a discount, dunno why, just is for me, but Hank is great to deal with and the quality of his lights have been top notch.
Funny how close we match up on those! I got a Titanium D4 and a short tube for it, fitted the long Ti tube to a black D1s. Got a green D4 and a short tube and put 4 green XPG2 in it, call it my Green Lantern. Lol I bored the tube of a green D42 to accept a 20700 cell. Have bronze fillers top and bottom making it green and gold, Baylor U is about 30 miles from me. I have like 11 of Hanks lights, use several at a time in Candlelight mode to assist a hot bath de-kinking my old bones when these Northers hit! 90 day before yesterday, 45 right now and dropping.
Edit: 3 D4’s, a D4V2, a D4SV2, a D1, a D1S , a D18, 2 K1’s and a seriously tweaked Meteor.
Hi, is there a way to turn off that blue side switch light while the light is turned on?
At the moment, no. The only way is to modify the firmware.
It’s not always blue though. The color changes to indicate how much power is left in the battery.
Ohh. That’s kinda cool feature then. I don’t mind it as much now. Haha
Thanks
You always impress, ToyKeeper!
does anybody know if k1 can take regular button top unprotected 21700?
Mine does.
thanks! Which ones do u use? Also, I know samsung 50e is recommended, but i see 50g is similar, but slightly better (15a drain vs 9.8a), but i havent heard anybody mention it anywhere, is there any reason 50g shouldnt be used for k1? Like anything that makes it less than ideal? Excluding consideration for sbt emitter
I’m not picky. I use Sofirn, Samsung, Wurkkos, Hohm Tech, EFAN, LG, whatever is handy.