Never asked this before as i never really gave the KR1AA much thought other than wanting one. But thinking about the tailswitch, would this be like the side or headswitches where having the rubber boot instead of the metal switch would pretty much eliminate accidental pocket activation? Could the tailswitch be replaced with a rubber boot type cover instead?
Looking at the pics of other users who have opened the tail, it looks like there might be a set depth that the tail closes to. The biggest issue is how to fill that extra space in, and whether or not a rubber on top of a rubber would give a decent actuation feel.
I think not
afaict the KR1AA tailswitch is not constucted like the sideswitches.. for example, there is no retaining ring around the tailswitch.. the construction is different
there Is a modification that can be done to the KR1AA tailswitch to make it more difficult to turn on accidentally. By adding a 9x1.5mm O ring:
(pic thanks to Tankolai, Oring size thanks to Firelight2 in this thread)
but it may not be needed.. some reports are that the stock switch has enough resistance without modification
suggest you try the light stock, you might decide no switch mod is needed
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Thanks for that info, I was just thinking out loud to come up with a solution so Hank would reconsider the raw aluminum finish with a different solution to the problem of the threads not being anodized.
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If you can find a way to use a metal ribbon or strip between the tail and head, instead of an inner tube, the tail switch lights could be very slim and lightweight. An entire tube can be eliminated.
Much like how a protected 18650 has a metal ribbon along one side so the protection circuit can sense the + and - ends of the cell, the same idea could make a tail switch flashlight very slim or narrow. But it may be difficult to do.
The other thing people liked about the FW3A was the flared grip ring built into the tail. It is easy to hold between two fingers and press the button with a thumb, without slipping or dropping the light, because the tail shape gives the fingers a ledge to press against. The KR4 design looks prettier but is not as secure to grip because the shape is more rounded.
Anyway, people seem to like the KR4 but want a version which is thinner and lighter weight.
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Essentially an FW3A successor. There is no light on the market that can complete with the FW series, although they have been discontinued.
As mentioned below, a driver/tailswitch contact strip would be nice and allow for reduced body diameter, ideally 25mm or under.
I have been wanting such a light for years, personally. The Wurkkos TS10 Max is not what I want, even though it is a very similar light.
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I hear you, the polished silver KR1AA will be an option at a later time, and still with the mechanical lock-out function.
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I love how much effort your putting into making this light perfect (not saying your others arenāt). Itās definitely admirable!
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Wait if the head is glued how to flash new firmware? Are pins easily reached with flashing kit, also will you sell new 3-pin one?
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Soā¦ @jon_slider i folded and ordered a black one with pink trits. Depending whether or not I like it, I might also place another order for dark gray with bronze hardware and green tritsā¦
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What will be the difference vs v1? Release date is known?
I assume https://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-kr1aa-14500-tail-e-switch-led-flashlight.html is v1?
Mike
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I believe all the V1 were sold through Jackson. All of these new ones direct from Hank are V2. The difference is that V1 had no mechanical lockout, V2 does.
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congrats!
since I have a D2 coming with NTG 2700K, and already have a D2 with NTG 4200K
Im debating waiting for the raw aluminum, after I decide which of those two LEDs I want in a KR1AA
I like the Trit tail option.. leaning towards a green trit, as in the past I tried a Red trit and could barely see it
I look forward to your KR1AA impressions..
Hank has been jumping through hoops to get the mechanical lockout to work.. hopefully everything will go smoothly with the latest decision to glue the head
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Went ahead and ordered one with the SFT-70 3000K, with an extra orange trit tailcap. Itās warmer than I prefer, and I donāt know if it will be throwy enough for me, but I guess weāll find out if I can live with it or if Iāll stick with my current D3AA EDC.
I also ordered a DA1K with the 4200K NTG50. After seeing people speak so highly of this light I think Iām really going to like it.
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Yeahā¦ after all of the reading for months, I just had to do it. Cyan, Polished Stainless, NYG50 5000K, green trit tailcap.
So the wait begins. He says 2 to 4 weeksā¦ SIGH. 
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congrats!
I have the same config in my cart.. plus a spare tail w magnet
āHe says 2 to 4 weeksā¦ SIGHā¦ā
just placed an order. cant wait!
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I thought a long time about the extra tail cap with the magnet. Judging by the way I use my TS10s and FWAA, I decided I didnāt need it. I think, with my budget, it came down to the trit cap or the magnet. The conclusion was the trit would be more useful. I suppose I can always order one later if it becomes a requirement.
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Put in my order for Brown with PVD Black parts and SFT-70 3000K. Really debated NTG50 4200K. Hope I made the right choice!! Now we play the waiting game!
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