Not going to lie, I’m quite relieved that there’s a 1 - 2 month wait - I’ve just bought an SC65c Hi.
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Update on my “mushy” switch
I contacted Hank shortly after receiving the light and was advised that a replacement would be available in approximately two weeks. I later emailed to request an update, and he provided a tracking number, which had been issued two days prior to my inquiry.
Hank is the man!
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Following on from using the CA Debonder to get into the tailcap switch, I had it apart again last night and now have a ‘working’ light. It’s hit and miss, programming Anduril could be frustrating, but I can get the basic functions.
Inside are some easily disturbed parts, I can see why Hank is gluing the retaining ring.
If anyone wants pics of what the inside is like and what I corrected, I’ll put some up.
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Don’t even ask, just post the pics 
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Before I put this back together again, does anyone know where the switch mod video is at? Someone placing a square of plastic under the button. I’m going to add a circle of the orange filter that I use on my Wurkkos TS10s, it’s a thick plastic and hopefully will crisp up the button.
Pics:
Components, retaining ring, switch, very thin copper washer, button. Switch button is off to the side somewhere.
The switch. The reason mine wasn’t working at all after I used the debonder is because the cross shaped flexible switch had slid off to the side. It’s held in place by an adhesive disc. I’ve centralized it here Ibest I can) and will drop a thin disc of plastic on to to spread the pressure of button presses better. It’s no wonder it’s sometimes unresponsive when the edge of the button is pressed.
Just an observation, the threads on mine feel very gritty, like new Titanium. I’ve brushed and lubed, but they stay rough.
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Thanks for sharing. This will help many people improve the switch.
Perhaps I wasn’t following the thread closely, but…
Am I correct in assuming that, judging by the lack of a magnet, this is version V1?
I believe folks usually put a small oring over the small disc on the rubber switch pad.
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It’s V2, I didn’t order a magnetic tailcap.
That sounds more efficient. The plastic disc didn’t change the feel much so I put it back together as stock.
on the reddit Anduril forum
that mod involves adding scotch tape onto the silicone rubber switch cover, below the metal button. It just serves to reduce the spacing and slop between the external metal button, and the silicone rubber layer.
great info!
congratulations on your disassembly and repair, and thank you very much for the parts photo..
if the domed switch popper in your KR1AA continues to be unreliable, dont hesitate to remove the yellow tape, insure the legs are properly anchored, and then recover the popper with tape to prevent the legs from drifting out of their slots.. try to leave the unanchored leg room to slide freely by not taping that edge too closely..
I will be interested to confirm how many locator legs the popper has and how many are free floating
Another variable to be aware of is the tightness of the tailspring retaining ring.. Too tight is not good.
Firelight2 goes into more detail in this posts
Hank also mentions that adjusting the tightness of the switch retaining ring is an acquired skill.
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Excellent, I haven’t removed the adhesive film disc but would like to clean beneath and reposition it properly.
I’m going give it a go, I have some 3M double sided tape that is very thin like the yellow disc. Important note, the disc must be positioned perfectly because the thin copper shim/washer makes contact with the exposed brass around the switch to carry current to the inner sleeve.
Luckily I have a 16mm hole punch, it’s 1mm too wide, but the doming should knock a mil off or I can trim the edges.
Just to add, I’m not getting a mushy switch so I won’t be padding it out. In feel it’s very like a Wurkkos TS10, not super crisp, but works just fine.
Will play around with tightening while I’m at it, at the moment I have a good success rate with button action, a few accidental turbos, a few failed ons/offs and it’s tight down hard. This will be one of the reasons it’s glued, and if it needs glueing it’ll be blue Loctite rather than CA superglue.
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You, my friend, are brave…blue loctite lol. I have a curiosity…could you simply extend the button tab by making a CA disc? or would that be too fragile?
if replacing the yellow disc of tape, I would use single sided tape,
or you could add double sided tape to the yellow tape disc if it comes off intact, and trim off the double sided tape around the edge of the yellow disc of tape as a template
I know youre handy.. have no doubt you will produce a good result
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Hoping that’s the super sticky but not solid one lol! CA glue is HARD to break.
Way ahead of you man 
. Peeling one side off and adding clingfilm (Saran Wrap). Then punching out a few discs that are very flexible and very sticky.
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I knew I could count on you to handle the situation 
I will be interested to confirm how many locator legs the popper has and how many are free floating
thanks for sharing your discoveries
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agree.. a small dab of blue is enough to stop the ring from loosening.. does not need to be full surround
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Success! I have a fully functioning KR1AA, or very close to it. 
The popper has precisely no locator slots or anything to hold its position.
Tools
Cleaned up switch baseplate, you can see where the adhesive was and the outer copper washer sits.
The flexibility of the clingfilm disc to blank the sticky side of the tape is essential to getting a good bond without creasing IMO. Had to trim a bit for the washer to sit, it looks messy and was fiddly, but I just ran the tip of the little knife round it and peeled the excess.
Copper washer sitting clear on the outside.
And finally, if I could fit this with a NTG35 2700K I honestly would. Bloody e-switches!!!
Many thanks to Hank for his refund or replace offer. I opted to wait before buying another, which freed this one up for either fixing or destroying in the process.
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Tightening the retaining ring. I took it down until it nipped up and then backed off about 15° or so, but it felt loose and clicky, so It’s just tightened down but I resisted going the extra bit, the tempting last tighten that every nut and bolt has just before you hear a crack or strip a thread 
I haven’t glued it and probably won’t unless it works loose.
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if your retaining ring suddenly feels loose and sounds like an empty M1 Bandolier, you’re in trouble, lol…
outstanding news!
congratulations
thanks for all the pics and details
sending a PM about modding a Tool AAA..