Mine was the dedomed version of the xpg2s. I don’t think they offer that version any more. The S3 3D DD.
What exactly do you mean by tailcap springs smash down pretty quickly???
wehre are you?
At the rate I gather subscribers I’ll be there in approx. 358 years.
I’ll have to test mine when I get home, I leave batteries in mine all the time and haven’t had that issue yet but I also don’t really bump it around much.
ok so likely i mooshed them myself; i was like “they say extra long, protected cells don’t fit but let me try anyway…” smash.
so obviously don’t do that
but there’s a thread going elsewhere about the light in general, and a few others have brought up the smashed spring problem (and i assume they weren’t as dense as me as to attempt to use protected cells in a light that specfically says not to).
there’s even an image, in post #1190ish of this thread.
here’s some of the goings on:
That’s not entirely accurate. The version I reviewed way back when DID accept protected cells. At least Sanyo 2600 mah ones. My new one yesterday no longer works with protected cells. So there must have been some minor revisions along the way, or some difference in the light I originally tested, to the current or all production models.
mhanlen, could you post an image about your light? Would be interested to see that colour in real life photos, I mean the flashlight body. And also, any thoughts about the 3d tint? That is what I prefer and planning to buy but it’s not easy to decide even if I prefer warmer colours.
+1 I would really like your opinion on the tint.
So I’m not super picky about tints. I know I don’t like greenish or cooler tints much, but that’s about it. The anodization is also nice, I would have prefered the stone white one, but I think the sandstone is nice. Expect it to have a hint of metallicness to it, making it more a subtle golden sandstone. Ignore the green reflection on the Sky Ray King, there’s a green tub next to the frame. You’ll see the SRK is much more reflective.
And finally a tint comparison. From left to right. My SRK with XM-L2 T4 7B3 80+ CRI, Armytek Predator Pro v2.5 XPG2 Warm, Zebralight SC600w MkII, Convoy S5 Triple Nichia NVSL219BT 4500K 92 CRI LED, Noctigon Meteor XP-G2 S3 3D, Xtar B20 Pilot XML U3.
Hope all this helps. The Meteor is a touch cooler than the Nichias, but not much. It’s pretty neutral.
Yep, absolutely this helps. Nice pictures, thank you very much! 
I think I prefer the black one but the tint looks to be just about perfect.
Yeah I don’t know which exterior color I like more, in the currently available versions. But it’s the one I got!
Belive me if I had one in my hands right now I wouldn’t mind the color either
[quote=mhanlen]
By teh way, Any news on the springs? as was mentioned above, apparently some seem to smash down. Do you have this with your light as well?
Don’t want a light that switches off from the slightest of touch.
[quote=yanovt]
Agreed. This issue needs to be addressed. Its probably a simple fix - unsolder old springs and solder on new springier ones (probably higher resistance springs which is a drawback but just bypass them with decent copper-silicon wires).
yeah i need someone to offer to fix them, so i can ship it out and have it repaired… i don’t have my soldering iron, and frankly i’m done soldering in general.
a TomE or so
[quote=yanovt]
The problem is the designers chose to use low electrical resistance springs to get higher maximum output. The downside is they just don’t have as much “spring” as traditional spring steel springs.
Simple solution is to desolder the stock springs and replace all 4 of them with steel springs with 18 gauge bypass wires. Modding the light in this way should completely solve the issue of the springs not being springy and would give even lower electrical resistance than the stock springs.
You can never switch off the light by shaking it (real hard shake)
or knocking it. Changing modes can never happen since the modes can only be
changed by pressing the button.
Welcome all the M43 owers to confirm it.
However, when you tap the tailcap, it will be
switched off. I mean it will only be switched off by taping the tailcap
which you do not need to deliberately do that during the normal use.
Otherwise, you can shake it, knock it, it will not be off.
If you want to completely avoid that, try to use longer cells which are more tight inside.
People have mounted the M43 on the bicycle and ride on the real rough road,
it can never be switched off. (Regardless of shorter or longer cells used)
The latest batch M43 has slightly shorter tube which makes the batteries more
tight inside, thus it does not work with the the protected cells anymore.
So, even with slightly shorter cells, it will not be off if you tap the taicap.
Thanks,
Hank
Hank,
the shorter tube is valid for both black and sandstone new batches? Also, would be interested to see the tint of the new S2 5A3 emitter option in real life photos.
Thanks
Its definitely true for sandstone. Protected cells do not fit in my light.