at least it does 2200 ansi 
Is there direct relationship between ANSI lumen rating/emitter lumens/"old"OTF lumens.
(BTW, these are questions I was never game to ask on "the other" site LOL.
—Geoff.
I think the human eye is a factor that most people don't understand how to add to the equation . it's clear the eye opens or closes adapting to the greater or lessened amount of light. The simple fact that i flip on a massive amount of light and my eye shut right down rejecting the majority of it makes me wonder why people are interested in raw output .i'm struggling to understand why someone wants to illuminate a huge area unless it is for others benefit as well .Besides just the wow factor which I see as about as interesting as saying ."look at my really bright light" which is interesting for only about 2 minutes ,,,What are the uses for massive amounts of light and then how sustainable is it. A light that's hugely bright for 30 seconds and crushes a battery has no real use other than the wow factor ..Better to just buy an M-80 and light it .. it also has a lot of wow factor too ..BOOM !!! both having a higher chance of exploding in your hand .
No, but usual ansi lumens is a little lower than OTF lumens, but how much depends on the heatsink construction in the light. This is because OTF is often measured at turn on and ansi is measured after 3 minutes, both using the same equipment.
Emitter lumen is something else, it is a calculated value. The calculation is done from the led data sheet and the expected led current and sometimes the manufacturer forget to derate for temperature. A good guess will be that ansi lumens is somewhere between 50% and 80% of emitter lumens. This depends on the reflector, glass and how precise the emitter lumen calculation is done.
Personally, I like to set things on fire....but I don't want to have to walk all the way over to them to do it. Walking...pfft! It's like running, only slower...
Thanks again guys...
Another issue I can see is that companies such as Fenix don't specify what standard their lumen outputs are tested against, for example...
Which specifies:
- Max Bright: 800 lumens (2 hr 10 min runtime)
- Low Bright: 10 lumens (240 hr runtime)
So is that 800 emitter lumens, OTF or ANSI? Shouldn't one of the major (and more costly) flashlight manufacturers be taking the lead and specifying ANSI lumens by now? And if a recognised industry leader won't use ANSI, then how can we expect the DX's, the Dino's or the AliBaba's of this world to tell us anything vaguely truthful about their off-brands?
I'm not clued up enough to do the maths with current/voltage/watts/runtime etc to work all this out, so I ultimately have to rely on the manufacturer's honesty (or lack thereof!) when I buy their stuff.
Fenix can hardly be responsible for all their resellers, try checking on Fenix own website, second picture says ANSI.
Thanks for the link HKJ... 
Walking . It's Like Running . Only Slower .
I cant stop thinking about this darn thing! Especially since i already have 4 x D NiMH batteries. Now if I can just get over the massive size (which is why I dumped my 3 XML maglite).
Here's a great vid:
i should be getting mine tomorrow i also have , the 5 and 3 mode triple xml s from manofont and the triple from qcg so will be good to compare the output the 3 mode triple is a drop in very poor compared to the 3 mode
sorry i mean the 3 mode is a drop in which is very poor for heat disapation compared to the 5 mode
Hi Sweeps, welcome to BLF. Many of us will be looking forward to hearing about your impressions of the TK70 versus the other triple XML Chinese offerings that you have.
Also, you can edit your posts if you make a mistake. 
very new to thise will try harder:D
I want them to release the triple drop-in by itself so I can put one in my Maglite.
+ heatsink...
The fenix TK70 is a very honest 2200 lumen torch. The thing that fenix is trying to do, along with other large companies with the spare resources to test their lights at least gives us a far more reliable reading than what we had before. Sure there may be slight variations, but its nothing compared to what chinese companies have classically been giving us as performance data, (or even now, where the R5-A3 AA XP-G torch is labelled as 800 lumens on ebay...
ANSI throw is only a theoretical value, calculated based on the lux reading at a shorter distance and then dividing this out to calculate the distance at which the brightness decreases to a particular brightness. This determines throw on a level playing field, but IMO, has little practical value. An ANSI 300 meter torch IMO is only usable to 100-150 meters because the amount of light coming back at 300 is ridiculously dim. Maybe I'm in a suburban environment where there is too much light pollution, but at 150m, you can make out what your looking at, at 300m, you can barely even tell where your hotspot is.
Downunder, 2 sets of 4x D-cells, plus charger is worth(?) $120.
Ouch! Is that worth it for a $230 torch? Probably not.
(1) Get a Hobby Charger. Prob $35 shipped can get a Accucel-6. Get some magnets from DX, charge at safe place, you are done. And much faster than any "Universal Smart charger".
(2) If you wanna cheap on the batteries (not recommended), there are some 4xD cells on Ebay which cost about $20 shipped. Or just use 8 x AA (not recommended, but it'd do if you don't do long runs coz prob it might switch from Turbo to High too fast)
I'll do a test on the 8 x AA since I already have spare AA NiMH.
I got a good deal for the TK70 with 4x D-cell and charger.
But the batteries are GP 9000 mAh.
Do you guys have experience with these GP D-Size Rechargeable 9000 NiMH?
Or should I buy the Tenergy 10000 mAh ?
I have used Tenergy Premium´s on my Lambda 2D. They have performed well so far, this Lambda XM-L takes about 5 Ampers from 2 cells...