Ahh that must me how it managed it then. I did notice the battery took longer to charge than it normally would too, so it must be bringing it lower than the low battery warning on my vape.
That explains it then. Once it had less than the 2100MAH in it, it must of started slowly dimming. It must be very slow though, as untill it dimmed and started flashing, I didn’t notice no difference in light
(No, I didn’t sit staring at my light for 3 and a half hours lol. I set it up pointing up about 2 feet from the wall my tv is on, so I could see when it started to blink.)
I am going to try a different battery tonight, but I am very impressed with that, 2 hours would of pleased me but 3 and a half hours is just great. The battereries are rated to go down as low as 2.5 volts, so will going down to 2.9-2.8 be damaging in anyway to them, when the low power mode starts flashing? Obviously then is when I would change battery and put the other on charge?
And thanks for introducing me to flashaholism, better than alcoholism lol.
this Nanjg 105c driver from FT has a 30% medium,so about 650mA and 3.5 to 4 hours on a 2.5Ah cell.Even on Simon’s Ali express convoy store they state a 40% medium mode , but further down , under customising , it is 30% again(no, dropping medium from 40% to 30% is not an option in their customising ).It sounds like,at some point,they changed mode spacing,but used up the old stock in some S2+ lights and you got one.It’s minor tweaking,nothing dishonest about it and you cannot see the difference anyhow,but runtime,you gain half an hour :bigsmile: .
No harm.
You can also stop and recharge at any point. As long as you don’t go below what the battery is rated for.
You might read that it is slightly better for battery health to recharge earlier. Less “depth of discharge” (how low the battery voltage gets before recharging). But the benefit is small. Not worth worrying about.
Ahh, so its 30%. That would explain it, and a good thing is it is still bright enough for me :). I have ordered an attachment for my bike, so I can use it as my front light, the rear lamp can come from the poundshop its only so others can see me, but with the front light I want to light up the road, not just be seen ;), I will have to remember to dip it to the left though or I will definitely annoy and blind some drivers if not.
I wonder if my S2+ from fast tech will be 30% or 40%? My torch came with the xm-l2, so its strange how they used the old drivers but not the old emmitter.
It could very well be 30, or some other percentage not quite “spec”, Chinese companies change and replace components all the time without notifying anyone, or have errors in what the stated numbers are (like on 99.99 of all light lumen claims and battery capacities) which is very irritating to many on here
Remember, as explained above you use more current as it goes down in V, and if its true this driver blinks and you turn it off at 2.85V, then you wont ever get near full capacity out (which is not a problem, I consider it a bonus to stop before since it gives a slight increase of overall battery life). It probably is 30% medium, makes more sense, most batteries are slightly UNDER the listed capacity, not over. Look them up on HKJ’s comparator for the average mAh he got out of them to see if yours tend to be over or under, I forgot off the top of my head.
Also remember my math there is just a vague ballpark number estimate and is not scientific. I only use it to see an approximate run time, and if something is wayyy off then I know something is different than expected: battery capacity or A to the driver…and then go from there to figure out whats going on and compare to other known lights and known battery run times…if I really care that is, usually I just take more batteries after getting a rough number
The one you linked from Fasttech is the star operated version. The 2-group version on FT says 50% on medium. Simon’s might be a different version or perhaps a typo.
The only way to know exactly which kind Conan has is to check it with a DMM.
30%, 40%, 50%....all irrelevant :) You see you have already taken the step to take yours completely apart. Next you will be installing drivers with YOUR OWN requirements to your taste. The writing is already on the wall.
I’ve got a broken solder joint somewhere,run out of bloomin solder, ordered some more solder, it works when I apply pressure so I guess it cracked or something. I am just re soldering the edges of the board that the Chips are mounted to to the edge of the thing that holds the LED, just as it was soldered before. That is correct yes? Do I need to stick to the points on this device that holds the LED, or can it be soldered both sides anywhere?
Just wondering more how these things work, and I wondered if one side of the large LED holder that the board slips into and solders onto was simply half one side positive and the other negative, or it was these specific spots that needed to be stuck to. It’s only a minor niggle, got some more solder on the way through the post, so should with me, and if I loosen the head slightly it stays on fine.
EDIT: Yep, its my soldering skills. I removed it as I would have to anyway, and place some tinfoil to create the connections on both sides. Works fine. I must of applied to little yesterday and it cracked, or even just applied too little in the first place as I was running out. When my solder arrives I will do it properly, but it works for now if I need it.
For gods sake. I just checked fast tech and they was going to send a 1400MAH version, I am sure I selected the 2100mah. I chose a gift certificate refund and used that to get the correct one, 2100MAH in black ordered.
Lucky I noticed and could cancel the shipping and get an instant refund, it was scheduled to ship on the 23rd, luckily so is this one, didn’t cost me any more money and at least I get the correct torch now on the way.
No, not at all :). I just find the 2100MAH to be bright enough on Mid, and funnily enough I just ordered a mount for my bike! I went out in the pitch black the other night, and mid is well enough to see far infront of you, its brighter than any light I have had before TBH.
I am going to use this one for modding though, so you never know what it will end up as ;).
Not really as this has nothing to do with remaining capacity. He was referring to the point where batteries voltage drops under the point where the regulated voltage(slightly lower) is incapable of maintaining 2.1 A through the led. An approximation of this point can be established by looking at the emitter data sheet and battery data sheet(or test results), while remembering there is also a voltage loss over the regulator, wiring, switch, etc.
And there is no such thing as "MAH" re: electronics. Sounds like some new Chinese flashlight brand.
Probably not exactly damage, but this kind of use will wear them out faster. It's always better to recharge li-ion before it's really necessary. This also applies to vaping use. Even more, really.
Yep, and that makes sense. It's better to start out with 8x7135 driver in that case. You can even fit 16 with relative ease, but the extra thickness could be inconvenient sometimes. Quite extreme, too.
You can also have 6 or 8 regulators on the top of the board, leaving the bottom side clean. This sometimes helps in fastening the driver board or because of battery length constraints. In that case, try modifying a 4x model. Assuming the typical default layout of four on the top or inside and the rest on the bottom or battery side.
Your calculation is correct even if maybe not precise scenario-wise, but what do you mean by losses here? I think there are none in the sense that it would affect capacity. A tailcap current of 1 A for 2 hours makes 2 Ah retrieved from a battery, not matter how much voltage loss there is over any given component.
Unless there is a leak current outside the main circuit, there are no losses current-wise. Protected batteries have such, but it's negligible when we are talking about use, not storage.
The only actual "loss" here is the capacity decrease when increasing discharge rate. However, if we are comparing known capacity at a certain discharge rate(current) and real life application at that same current, this has already been eliminated. And that's what we should be doing with know batteries with that kind of data available. Also, the 25R is a very high discharge rate cell and as such will have virtually the same capacity (not necessarily usable capacity)at any typical flashlight discharge rate. There's just a couple of % difference between 2 A and 7 A, and still less than 10% difference between 0.2 A and 15 A(HKJ data). It should have about 2400 mAh available when discharging 4.2 V to 2.8 V @ 2 A.
The sources of error in such a runtime calculation are not losses, but making an assumption of the actual current at medium(might not be exactly the 0.4 x high, or 0.3 or any other figure the seller gave) and the light dropping out of regulation at some point, thus extending runtime. The actual cell capacity might also differ from the nominal value, but that's almost certainly minor and would mostly be due to differences in chargers final voltages. A more precise estimate can be calculated if the tail current at medium is measured first. And even that measurement might be off for multiple reasons.
A switched-mode driver would do that(a boost driver pretty much all the time, and a buck driver until it goes into sort of direct drive). Linear regulated drive as found in those multiple-7135 drivers does not. It just causes excess voltage to be lost as heat. Theoretically, it has a constant and similar input and output current until the input voltage is too low to maintain that current. Before that, the only change is decreasing heat output at the driver.
Um, I have been known to use 20 of the 7135 chips, even 24. If things are tight, I carve stuff. :bigsmile: The thin little FET drivers are a blessing. Love em.
Yeah, I thought the quite extreme part covered you. Nah, let's say very extreme. Not trying to give a lecture here, just marking up a reference of some of the possible or practical combinations for the topic starter. 16 is already all chips stacked once if we were to use a board with 4 chips on both sides.
).It sounds like,at some point,they changed mode spacing,but used up the old stock in some S2+ lights and you got one.It’s minor tweaking,nothing dishonest about it and you cannot see the difference anyhow,but runtime,you gain half an hour :bigsmile: .
my repeat percentage decided me against a career in medicine.
