There is no need to reduce the current for XP-L (2)(HI) LEDs. Maybe down to 7A to get more runtime, but generally it shouldn’t be a problem.
The problem with LEDs like the XHP-70 is that the light has a very big smooth reflector. Quad-Die LEDs will get you a version pronounced donut-hole. The hotspot will resemble a circle.
I also wouldn’t use an XP-L HI. De-domed XP-Ls are brighter.
I would use a dedomed xp-l, either V6 or W2, running at 6 amps to keep it safe.
Take out two of cells and wire the remaining four in series, then put in an XHP35 HI.
This would most probably blow battery level gauge and render stock charger useless but you can use LD-51 instead, input is 6-8.4V but you have to change e-switch with regular clicky switch…
I just checked the tests to be sure. What I said is wring to some degree. 7A is pushing it with the XP-L (HI). 9A is too much.
The XP-L2 on the other hand has ni problem with 9A. So if you simply want to replace the LED, this option is easiest.
I also recommend first de-doming the SST-90 and testing that. De-doming these is really is easy.
When you dedome an LED you will get a lot less output, like 15-30% less, so all the lumen advantage of the XP-L will be gone.
The LED will also be unprotected without anything covering the phosphor and will probably die sooner than the HI equivalent.
The goal is for improvements all around, more throw, brighter spill etc…
oh and my stock battery pack is rebuilt with 26650’s
It’s very likely less than 30%, that would be extreme. See here.
De-Domed LEDs have been used for around 5 years now. I have not read a single report on phosphor degradation or LEDs failing just because they were de-domed. Never. The reason is basically always too much current or heat.
This of course doesn’t mean that it is not possible, but it seems rather unlikely. The only important consideration in my eyes is that the LED needs to be handled more carefully, but lots of people manage to do that.
Also, XP-Ls are not very expsenvie. If one dies it shouldn’t matter too much (if you own an SR-90…).
Really? You’ve never seen what happens when you touch the die of a dedomed LED?
But why would you ever do that? The OP wants to put it into a sealed light. Many people here do that all the time.
The stock light makes ~2200 lumens, right? Emitters like the XPL will give more throw, but they will give similar or less overall output. If you really want a lot of light, a direct drive XHP70 will give you ~7000lumens. If you slice the dome off nice and close the throw will be pretty good too. As mentioned above, it will make a donut hole beam to some extent.
It’s more like 5000lm, and the throw will be similar since it’s ~2x the lumens and ~2x the area.
I’m hoping a XHP70.2 comes out soon so that the dies get closer together…
DBcustom and Tom E. both tested the top bin XHP70 to be close to 7000lumens OTF in L6s. And ~130Kcd with dome and stock OP reflector.
The SR90 reflector is very large, but the stock throw is not that impressive. Selfbuilt measured it to be 112Kcd. XHP70 in this reflector would give a lot more throw. I found this reference to this mod: XHP70 + Olight SR90 Intimidator?
From the post you linked: “4600 lumens from the high cri emitter, 5200 lumens from the standard 5700K version”
From djozz:
Where is your source for 7000 lumens??
I found the numbers a bit hard to believe at first, too.
When the majority of tests show 4-5k lumens, I HIGHLY doubt they are getting 7000+.
This seems like a problem with equipment that isn’t calibrated correctly or is not scaling linearly at such high output.
Even with the P2 1C it should only be a few percent above the N4.
If you take a look at the cree datasheet, there is no way you get 7500lm at 12 amps.
Plus, the reflector and the front lens reduce the output by several percent more.
So yeah, I do not believe those 7000lm+ claims.
I think it is actually less. The newer ones produce like 1750 otf Lumens and the older ones maybe around 1200 otf Lumens (those values might be hard to dig out, it was 7 years ago).
How can you tell which version of the led it has?
If you can’t recognise it (each model of led is a bit different), take a photo, upload it to a image hosting website then paste a link here and we will help you identify the led.
Everything I have read says there is no visual difference. I was hoping for a serial # or something.
