Olight Ti S Mini mod to sw30

Received pebbled Tir and installed in Ti SMini w sw30.





the beam is clean, no dark shadow in the middle anymore.

there is still a gap of about 1mm at the bezel, because the mcpcb I used is thicker than stock.

I dont mind the gap, work in progress, as I may want to open the light again… I forgot to put glow paint below the optic…

I chose a 30 degree XM optic, might try a 20 degree next time.

There was no lumen penalty, the output total stayed the same w the Pebbled Tir.

Have not used the light at night yet, but first impressions are positive. I suspect the main difference will be that the Pebbled Tir will not reach forward as much as the stock Tir…

Looks good Jon . Glad that worked for you . :+1:

thanks… definitely got rid of the dark shadow midbeam… very happy w the Pebble Tir:


thanks for your comments and encouragement… I agree, the 17mm pebbled XM Tir works very well w 219b in my Ti S Mini… it has turned the light into a little Nichia Jewel :+1:


OK, those results are more than good enough for me to stop procrastinating and mod all of mine. Now they can stop being just wasted money and start being fun. Please report back on the 20° lens. Thanks for the motivation to finally move.

Super Fun!
now I wish I had not sold off my Cu SMini and Rainbow Ti S Mini, and and and…

Pebbled XM Tir Rocks w 219b…
I imagine with 519a the XM Tir will work even better

The Future Looks Bright!

btw, the 30 degree Tir is very similar to my FWAA beam, which I find more Floody than necessary… I definitely would suggest the 20 degree Tir instead…

left Ti SMini w sw30, right FWAA w sw35:

With shaved LH351Ds…
The 20° lens also works well.


Looks good jon_slider. Sand that MCPCB down a little and it be perfect. :slight_smile:
Nice mod, Olight really does have some terrible tints and hard to mod lights.
Big improvements all the way around. A 519a should get it back closer to the original output.
I know you’ll try it. :wink:

Makes me feel good that someone else is as Nit-Picky as me about beam appearance, even on white Wall. I mean I can get over some slight artifacts in the spill (although I love perfectly shaped beams more than anything else), but the black spot in the beam kills me. Cannot put xpl-hi in a seeker 2 pro bc the optic creates a black spot in the middle of beam with the domeless led. Even sst20 has a slight one. Xpl-HD have ok beam, but really floody with tint shift. The most perfect beam I have seen is Nichia 219b in the seeker 3 / 3 pro optic. Large, wide circle hotspot, no artifacts whatsoever, and not black spots. It's amazing.

Thanks! and I agree that a thinner mcpcb will let the bezel sit flush to the head…

I ordered some 4500k 519a from Convoy:

Your Olight mods helped inspire me to take the plunge. Really glad I did.


. :heart_eyes:

Awesome outcome, Jon. I really like that S-Mini.

The Olight resale market has really gotten weird… resale value for some models has shot through the roof. Looks like that may be a side effect of the brand having a kind of renaissance in the mass consumer flashlight market. Brand new titanium S1 sold for $230! I have that very light. I decided I’m not going to mod it. :wink:

me too, now that it has a High CRI LED and a clean beam :slight_smile:

ebay Olights are a greater fool topic. People get ridiculous prices for sealed boxes. Clearly they have no intention of actually using the light… they think Olights are an “investment”. :partying_face:

I had heard about certain models of discontinued Olight flashlights becoming sought after and getting some insane auction prices (like the i3s). Apparently there’s a whole rash of Olight copper interest too… as if they were the only brand offering it. So maybe people are thinking they’re going to enjoy the same resale increase in the near future. Highly unlikely. Still, they do make some nice flashlights and I enjoy their simplified UI.

Jon! I can't believe I commented on this thread but never read the pages beforehand. I had modded a smini for a redditor and about a half dozen s2a and S2 which I believe have the same exact concave TIR with the short stature and widened rim "lip" as the smini. All of the mods were done with 519a and 219b. I ended resorting to using some standard DC FIX over the stock concave TIR which worked ok. Would of course need to be replaced as necessary.

I have all of those optics you ordered, and I swear I thought I tried the 17mm beaded xml2 optic with no holder (no white backer). So yours caught the wide lip and stays under the bezel? It looks like it does, it's been awhile and I Thought I remember that optic not being wide enough around the lip. This makes me want to finally buy a s2 or s2a or smini and mod it for myself. I hadn't bothered bc of the optic "issue" I must be falsely be remembering.

Sanding the mcpcb thickness is a CHORE! I created a jig to hold it and make the work a little easier. I'd be interested to hear what others solution is for sanding mcpcb thickness? It's a painstaking 30minutes process even with my jig. And I went down every avenue to try and order custom copper mcpcb / 12-14mm @ 1mm thick. It's impossible unless I want to buy 1000 lol.

anyway, for the second time, great job!

yes, the bezel fits over the lip of the Tir perfectly. As you note, sanding down a 1.5mm mcpcb to 1mm is a pain, but makes it fit perfectly…

In fact, if you want to sand a spare for me, I will buy it now! LOL

I haven’t yet sanded the thickness of an MCPCB, but I use a cheap Harbor Freight 1x30 belt sander. Works great for reducing the diameter and you can even sand notches for screws or posts, if needed. Very useful tool.

I’m sure it would do thickness just fine. Maybe hot melt glue the MCPBC to a scrap piece of wood or something so you can do the entire face at once (vs holding it with pliers and having to move them around). That should help to get an even thickness.