Put them in identical lights, using the same reflectors same focus same cells same drivers, and you will not be able to tell which is which. Minor differences in the size of the spot can really trick you, the more concentrated one will appear brighter even if it's the one putting out significantly less light in total. Differences in tint can do the same thing.
Don't get me wrong, what matters is how it looks to the eye, unless the primary use for the light is to shine it at light meters. Depending too much on the meters can lead you astray, too.
I'm thinking the C8 'U3' is direct drive and cranking up the amps, and an XM-L2 will do pretty good that way. Just comparing the lights, and if the C8 is a true 7000, then it may appear quite a bit brighter side by side because of the cool blue tint, and running hotter.
montanaman - the XinTD is well regulated and at 3 amps, decent runtimes. Dunno bout that C8 - you may want to find out a bit more bout it before recommending it to everyone because though it's brighter, runtime may be poor. Best thing to do is a tailcap amp reading, but not sure if you got a multi-meter for that.
I also have the C12 (almost like the C8 body) XML2-U3 and it also appear brighter than the V4 XinTD on a white wall BUT on outside use (especially in forest) my XinTD is brighter because of the natural white tint LED option.
Since I dedome the C12 it is now easily brighter at long distance but you have a narrower beam with less total light and a strange green/yellow color (but still give better CRI).
Brighter is a very subjective thing and testing it with your own eyes is much more meaningful than absurd numbers. The two light are close but the 3C tint is a pleasure to the eyes.
I’m most appreciative that Mr. Flomotion & Mr. Lou_Menn pointed this sweet light out to me! It’s definitely the best $18.50 I’ve ever spent on a flashlight. Just pulled it out last night to look for a neighbor’s model rocket in my tree and it was amazing, as always. If you can buy more light for the money I’m all ears. :money_mouth_face:
Yes, but if you use the stock leads, your reading is probably lower than what it really is - you could be over 4 amps. I use custom 18 gauge leads - soldered into banana connectors on one end, and simply bare on the other end, but soldered heavily - they work great at high amps.
The 20 setting should be 20A DC of course. That's good - most cheaper meters are 10A max.
My C12 XM-L2 U2 looks brighter than the XinTD V3 (XM-L U3) but when I overlap the beams, the XinTD clearly has the brighter hot spot. The only common part is the driver so the deception is no surprise. The C12 with OP reflector looks much nicer, too.
montanaman, I’m not sure you did the test right, for the 20a test, your black lead should be in the common connection and the red lead should be in the 10/20Adc socket (the colours really don’t matter but its better to be ordred) it is interesting you got a plausible reading as is though, most of the time the normal connections wont take over an amp before the internal fuse pops.
Those are really low. You should get 3A on high on a V4 with a decent cell - I even measure 3A on a KeepPower 3400 protected, and a EagleTac 3400 measured 2.8A. Thank gords!
I must be doing something wrong. The first numbers when I touched the leads the light didn’t light up, when I switched to black common and red in the 10ADC, then set the dial over where it says 10A also that’s where I got those last readings and the light came on high/ med and low, the battery is just off the charger its at 4.19A a EagleTac 3400. I must be doing this wrong? I wish I could post a picture of my meter, but the truth is I’m not an electrician, and I know this is a simple test once I set the meter correctly
as long as you get a good connection in the meter end, tinned ends on the leads will be comparable to banana plugs.
I actually have always used the stock leads, but my meter cost someone far more than $5 lol, it gave consistent on the button readings till it spent 3hrs alongside me in torrential rain. its now toast and I’m waiting on a fluke 117 turning up, I’ve kept the leads though to see how my own cheap meter does on decent quality test leads
Yes - I used 12 gauge wire and built up solder blobs on the end til it fit nice into the meter connectors - that was my first set of amp measuring wires.
What meter? I've seen Fluke leads perform poorly, but of course I'm talking about measuring amps 3.5A to 6.5A and it makes a difference the higher the amps are. What range of amps are you measuring?
My meter only goes to 10amps, so I guess 0-10 range. And I’m not sure which model fluke my friend has, its probably about middle of the road for fluke. But doing tail readings on the XinTD V4 my cheaply in that 0-10 range read the same .05 low/.60 med and 2.16 on high. I still haven’t made those speaker wire leads yet.
Hey guys… been reading these posts awhile, thought I’d chime in.
I got the new XM-L2 U3 in a c8 from Aliexpress. I have 10 lights to compare it to, namely every other LED that came out prior in an assortment of hosts.
Bottom line : XM-L3 U3 is DEF the brightest. Very noticable difference from even the XM-L2 U2. No joke. Brighter hot spot, bigger beam, great tint. LOVE THIS LIGHT.
Only thing that sucks is the distributer from that site has been such a pain in the ass. They didn’t ship for a week, gave me false tracking numbers, and I questioned the whole time if I’d receive. Took 3 weeks to US, prob would’ve taken less then 2 if they shipped on time (probably drop shipped from that supplier). In the end they still f*cked up my order giving me a 5 mode when I ordered a 1 mode. Waiting weeks now on the replacement and I don’t see it ever coming. Waiting for Manafont to come out with it so I can order a second.
I’d put up beam shots if I could figure out how to!
Hi Semiloaded, a few people seem to think these don’t have actual cree xm-l2 u3 emitters but I also bought one from the same place you did and I also have an assortment of C8’s with a verity of cree LED’s and as you stated this is by Far the brightest hot spot of all the lights I have, and it doesn’t even have the 8-7135@380mA for 3.04A output, I can’t tell what kind of driver it has, but the tail cap reading on mine is only 1.40A. I’m gonna switch out the driver in mine with a Qlite 3.04A and a couple extra .380mA 7135 chips and see what this light will do with a high powered driver. I’ll repost results if my Qlite’s ever show up. I hate waiting the 4 weeks for parts. The closed C8 light that I have is a XinTD V4 with a Cree XM-L2 U2 1C and a Qlite 3.04A driver, hate to say it but the U3 Ultrafire flat smokes the XinTD V4.
I’ve read some people don’t believe these are really U3… that is until you have one! I live in NYC, and I can beam a 40th floor window from the street.
I’ll also mention I’m using a Frankenstein host……
My Ultrafire head, a Xtar Z20 body, and a Solarforce tailcap…
By far my fave light right now… (until next month I’m sure)
I agree I liked it so much I ordered a couple more, but like you said until next month? I can’t wait to see how this performs with some real power pushing it. I wish I knew how to post beam shots but I kinda suck at smart phones, its way smarter than me haha. With 3.04 or higher amps this will really be a thrower.
I hate waiting the 4 weeks for parts. The closed C8 light that I have is a XinTD V4 with a Cree XM-L2 U2 1C and a Qlite 3.04A driver, hate to say it but the U3 Ultrafire flat smokes the XinTD V4.