I successfully changed to a Noctigon star with XML U2 in two of my F13’s. I’ve been satisfied with the results. I’m curious as to the possibility of changing drivers as well in one of them to see what, if any changes happen. First, for those that have modded the UF F13, what is your opinion of the stock driver? Is it ‘fine as is’ and don’t mess with it? Secondly, doing a search I’ve found these alternatives I’d like opinions on:
The first three Chinese lottery drivers you listed are regulated, but they have those annoying blinky modes. The Mtn one will give you exactly what you want, mode-wise, but understand you’re gonna be running direct drive on high—which isn’t a bad thing. You may have to do some further mods to withstand those amps.
I prefer regulation, choosing my total amps and modes and ensuring there is low voltage protection. I just received 6 of Wight’s 22mm 16 X 7135 empty boards from OSH. I’ll probably set up the F13 (still in the mail) for ~4 amps and flash whatever firmware suits my fancy. I’m also going to try out the hard-to-find warm white 3000K 90 CRI XM-L2 on it. Hoping everything arrives next week so I can put it all together.
When you say stick the new driver on the old (stripped) driver are you talking about soldering the new drivers spring to the old driver? And if so, would you need to run a + and - wire from the old driver to the new or would the spring be enough?
Strip the old driver of its components leaving the spring on(contact plate) and wiring the new driver +/- (spring off) to it (piggy backing) then wire the LED to the new driver.
If you go with this driver and choose “guppydrv” as your firmware, you can set the turbo timer yourself, based on how your particular flashlight/battery combo performs. The instructions for doing this are on Mtn’s site.
Also, be sure you have your LED on a direct thermal path copper board and that it is properly affixed (Artic Silver, etc) to the pill.
I just fried the LED on a HD2010 and all I did was mod both springs with 2mm solder wick. The extra amps fried the LED in ~5 seconds on high. Not that I cared, really, because the light is getting everything replaced with good stuff.