opinions on sk98 "upgrades"

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
1

I have an ultrafire sk98 I want to play with. I need some fillers for an order from FT so why not. I know its a waste of time and yadda yadda yadda. I’m just wanting some opinions on these parts and if they will work for my light.

I’m thinking about replacing the driver to one I can get rid of the blinking when I don’t want them and turn them on when I do. I done the pencil mod on the driver it has now. Does this one have the stinking next mode memory?

https://www.fasttech.com/product/1143100

Ditching the plastic lens for

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1187600

and just because I like it

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1138302

I’m also gonna order some o-rings. Best I can tell there is only 2 sizes on this thing. Are these the right sizes?

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1088603

https://www.fasttech.com/products/2066601

I’m thinking I might play with the LED and swap it out with one pretty equal to the XM-L2 T6 clone it has now. From my short research is this what I want?

Thanks for any help.

2

Meh…
For that light, I’d recommend an XP-G2. 3A qlite from Mtn. 17 to 20mm adapter from FT.

Done. That’s mine, and I like it…

3

Keltex78’s got a point: if you’re ordering from MTN anyway you could pickup a driver with the firmware of your choice (eliminating unwanted modes etc).

If you want an LDCH driver maybe the LD-25 would be a better choice than the LD-29 for this application. Ah, but the diameter doesn’t match, I see. I suppose keltex78 is referring to these adapter boards. The LD-29 is a good driver and definitely doesn’t have next mode memory, but I don’t think it’s actually a good match for 1s, only 2s (two batteries in series).

4

I think I’m gonna leave the LED alone for now until I do some more reading and understand them a bit more.

The LD-29 is listed for single cell (now me not know jack it might not be ideal for it)

5

Many buck drivers are unsuitable for driving a single LED from 1s. This is especially true with LEDs which have a high Vf (forward voltage). When HKJ reviewed an older LD-29 I do not think that he found it impressive on 1s.

Some time ago lagman wrote an informative article to help beginners with some driver-related concepts. I eventually edited that to make it more boring. For now I’ll recommend that you read/skim that to get a better handle on things.

I can’t imagine going through the rest of your shopping list without including an LED swap!

6

Thanks, I have a very basic understanding of things but most of what I knew is outdated now. I quit playing with DC electronics and went into the AC electrical field for the last too many years. The tech has jumped way forward, I still remember playing with canister LEDs when they were more the norm.

7

@ Wight: yep, that’s it!

8

Okay… Sorry about last night’s answer being so short, I was on my cell phone, and the touchscreen hasn’t been working well since I dropped it… 8-|

My SK-98 has the 20mm Nanjg 105E from KaiDomain installed, and it’s a great driver for this light:
http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S023811

If I were to do it again, I would try to use the Qlite from Richard, with one of the 17mm to 20mm adapter plates, but just to get the lower low level. Flood on a low-low is a useful option for around-the-house use at night.

My preference for emitters in the smaller-lensed zoomies is the XP-G2. I had this same light original setup with a XP-L HI, and I wasn’t happy with it, but after installing the XP-G2, I keep going back to this light, as it’s a surprisingly good thrower now.

Thanks for pointing out that lens on FastTech, I wasn’t aware of that one to fit the SK-98. Anyone used it yet to verify if it focuses well?

My SK-98 has the hollow pill of course, but I’ve mixed a batch of JB-Weld (actually, Harbor Freight branded equivalent) with a small amount of rubbing alcohol to thin it, then poured into the pill to fill against the base of the emitter PCB. Although, the pill does have rather chunky shoulders the PCB rests on, and my emitter is flowed onto a Noctigon, all of which should help.

I actually like this SK-68 enough to try order one of the camo models from FastTech:
https://www.fasttech.com/p/4168603
…even though the photo clearly shows a LatticeBright or similar clone emitter (description say Cree XM-L T6):

…in hopes that the finish matches the same pattern camo SK-68 I purchased from Gearbest. I really do like the glossy painted camo pattern on the GB light.

9

I’m not nearly as worried about flood and personally think mine had too much flood. I run 2 big thick o-rings (2mm) on the body to space the bezel out to narrow the beam a bit. Mine had the hollow pill also but I had some canadian pennies I put to good use on it. I have that same exact camo light saved in my wishlist on FT. Guess I’ll be different as I hope its a matt finish. Figured I’d tinker with the one I have, get it setup how I like it, and then build that one. This black one my son and dad are already wanting so I can pass it to one of them.

Really wish I could give you more info on the lens. Somebody had suggested it for the replacement of a lens in a sk68 and at the time I had one. I don’t even remember where I first seen it or who I can give credit to for bringing it to my attention. The plastic holding the spring in my sk68 busted leaving it useless so while I’m moving to bigger I figured I’d see if it works.

Thanks guys

10

Is the lens the same size in the sk98 and sk68 ?

11

On my sk98 the lens is crimped in so I don’t want to remove it (risk damaging it) before I have the replacement on hand to try. That said the sk68 fits upside down on bottom of it flat side to flat side and I can’t tell any physical size difference. Now as pointed out and the reason why I asked about it the question is in the focal point of the glass lens. I have no clue on that and was hoping somebody here did.

If it narrows the flood down a bit it won’t hurt my feelings one bit but to somebody else might not like it so much.

Good to see I’m not the only one that likes glass over plastic lens.