I don’t think there’s a “Pro” model (yet). Those Pro-images are around since I bought the Opple months ago. Asked Opple and got no answer. Also, the naming is inconsistent. Sometimes it’s called Lightmaster III, sometimes it’s Lightmaster G3. The App is called Lightmaster Pro.
I bet someone was working on an improved model, maybe using a CCD with more suitable color filters, and hence the renderings and the made-up app pictures with R9. But I bet it would have been way more expensive with customized CCD, more in the range of other devices of this kind.
Another point: Let’s not seriously discuss the precision of the CIE diagram location. Mine was, iirc, 40 EUR. It’s fun, it’s useful in cases I stated above. But of course it is no scientific tool.
it tells me the tint of the LED (I dont mean the color temperature).
tint is a major deciding factor in my LED selection… I intentionally do not buy LEDs with DUV above the BBL
Im much less concerned about color temperature. I can pretty easily figure that out by shining a light on a wall that is illuminated by an incandescent bulb (3000k), or by one of my flashlights LEDs with a known LED color temperature such as 4000k.
It has become pretty easy for me to know when Im looking at a sample that is either cooler or warmer than one of my reference lights.
there are many LEDs that can claim High CRI, but they can have green tint.
there are also many LEDs that can claim High CRI, but they can have very low Red CRI R9
for me, the Red CRI R9 specification is a Major and usually overlooked criteria, that helps me decide which LEDs to buy.
so Im not tempted to buy an Opple, since it is not accurate for DUV, does not offer CRI R9, and I dont need a device just to determine color temperature… thats pretty easy for me.
I also dont like the Ali price being double what you guys pay in Europe.
Jon, I really agree with you. Not having accurate’ish DUV or R9 is the issue. CT are easy to make an informed guess about, still, but to a lesser extent after having looked at so many it is fairly easy to decide where the DUV is more or less. Camera shots with right WB and again a good eye will tell you a bunch on a calibrated screen.
Holy cow. $31 after coupon and shipping? That’s a pretty good deal for what it advertises to be. It may not be a professional-level tool, but according to the test results that have been posted here so far, it seems to do what it claims to do.
I have no affiliation of any kind… I paid the price shown in that link (about $35 w shipping), for the one I just ordered. Will post impressions after it arrives.
Congrats for finding it at this price! I’m sure you’ll like testing it. I’d be interested about your findings regarding lux measurements. I found some deviations from the Benetech GM1020, but that’s surely not a reference device.
This Opple is sold to professionals, and part of the job is measuring brighness. So, it should be good at that, taking into account there are standards about e.g. office/workspace brighness values.
I did a side by side test, at 5 meters, compared the lux measurement manually with my Hagner E4-X luxmeter.
Mode1-Mode4 were with a Olight Seeker 3 PRO with unknown LEDs
Thrower is a Fenix C7 with SST70 (not so much of a thrower, but more throwy than the Olight)
I used the Hagner measurement as 100%, and then did the math. I wonder what everybody else gets.
Here are the results in terms of candelas (calculated from the lux I measured)
So, an average of about 11% higher than the Hagner.
The 9% at the start and 14% at the second mode are not as consistent as the other measurements that were close to 11% each time.
So that is good to know. Just take off about 10% of the measurements, and it should be okay!
10% high sounds good enough, and after 10% substraction you are within a few percent. For a complete picture how it performs as a luxmeter, light sources with some more varied spectra could be compared with the Opple+Hagner , from 2700K to 6500K, from 70CRI to 95CRI.
fwiw, there can be a large difference in the way my light meter reads LEDs
for example, the SSC P4 in my Original Novatac, reads 70 lumens on my meter… but Hogo swears he calibrated it to 120 lumens, after making an adjustment for the spectrum of the LED
by contrast my HDS w XP-G, which is factory calibrated to 200 lumens, reads 210 lumens on my meter… which I then adjusted to match the 200 lumen HDS.
so, an XP-G reads very different than an SSC P4
Maukka bought a 200 Lumen HDS w sw45k. On Maukkas meter it read 235 Lumens. This tells me that HDS used a different spectrum conversion factor than Maukka.
so yes, if the Opple reads within 10%, that is totally OK, and can be attributed to testing Low CRI Cool White LEDs, which read differently than High CRI LEDs, or LEDs with a different spectrum distribution.
Im looking forward to comparing the Opple to my Light meter… with various different LEDs…