When I heard the pro’s came back, I honestly didn’t feel the need to buy one ultimately. I just wanted to know rough Duv numbers for a few lights, and then my use for it would have ended. And $45 bucks seemed just too steep for that. Thats the cost of a new E07 on sale, so I just couldn’t justify it. Everything with an opple has to be taken with a grain of salt anyway, so rough duv numbers is good enough fo me. To get that for under $20 def sounds more appealing. I would have paid $25 for the pro, but even then it’s use would have been short. Now that I got a 519A setup, turns out I much prefer comparing in person to comparing duv readings anyway. For me Duv readings weren’t quite as telling as the Eye Test proved to be, as far as “rosy” is concerned anyway.
Flicker is just to test the severity of WPM right? Or is there more to it? Thanks again for sahring this welcomed news. Now I gonna go find the duv formula.
I'll be the voice of dissent (reason?) on this. The Pro version is absolutely worth it. Flicker and CRI are the primary reasons I use the device. If you want something more than that, you need a $1000 device anyway. Why neuter your expectations?
There have been a few times when the CRI of an LED was unknown, and I was glad to have the Opple Pro, for example I did not expect this LED to be High CRI:
and some time ago, the RRT-01 came out with a 219c, that ended up being Low CRI (even though everybody assumed since it was a Nichia, it was high CRI).
similar happened with a batch of zebras, that had LH351d that were Low CRI “by mistake”. Users on BLF discovered both facts with instruments capable of measuring CRI…
as far as flicker, I used it to examine my house LED lighting, and was able to make some informed choices between brands… I went with some from waveform lighting…
otoh, my Most used Opple features are CCT and DUV… the CRI Ra is usually not in question, and the flicker measurement is not something I consider essential…
but hey, for an extra $25… Im the sort of guy to buy the Pro…
I only mention the V2 for people that focus on price.
I don’t mod lights, and I don’t have tons of lights or change lights often. And it turns out the only reason I really cared about DUV readings, was because of the 519A’s arrival and my desire to understand what the duv readings meant in regard to real-world rosiness. I just wanted it to help me decide which one I wanted. But since I got my 519A’s now, I don’t even care to know duv readings anymore. I have a specific E21A mix that is neutral warm, but rosy AF. I was wondering about that compared to 519A. Now it doesn’t matter because even if the 519A has a higher DUV, it still isn’t as rosy or as pink as the mix I wanted to compare it to. 519A is something else entirely. So duv readings weren’t even the best indicator of what to expect for me. CRI is something I absolutely crave and adore, but I don’t need to personally test exact numbers when so many other are providing them. My E21A mix is using 98 CRI emitters, how bad can it be right? :sunglasses: I honestly don’t even know what flicker will tell me. I personally simply won’t have much use for a pro, or version 2 for that matter. So $45 for me, just isn’t worth a few readings.
But I know that there are so many people modding and swapping lights often enough to where a device like this will only accentuate that process and make it more fun. So I don’t mean to say it isn’t an awesome device for a damn good price, I just doubt I will put it to much use.
If you haven’t purchased the LightMaster 2 yet, wait it out some. Their prices seem to wander and being this is a new release, the LMPro price is steep. I got mine for ~ $21 USD after some 4 months this thread first came by. I had missed an opportunity somewhere after 2 months, but it does go ‘yoyo’.
As Jon pointed out, we find different uses for the device, none that we had ever forethought of. I too check on the overhead lighting and some of the crappy lights in my “lost” drawer. The Flicker index is not critical but useful.
Thanks so much for the tip. I think I will hold off and do that. If I do see it come up again for $20-ish bucks or so, then I’ll see enough value in it for me. Right now I can wait and not feel like I’m missing anything. Thanks again
Was wondering if there’s any difference between 2 and pro hardware wise. Some searching on the net revealed the following.
Series 2:
Pro:
They seem to use an entirely different sensor and controller/BT interface. Series 2 sensor looks a bit like an AMS TCS34903FN (red, green, blue, clear and IR), but could be something else entirely as well.
Does anyone ( @jon_slider ?) have Opple reading of Nichia 519a 4500k’s Duv (before dedoming)? All my other Nichia LEDs’ numbers are fairly consistent with known specs, except the 519a is unexpectedly giving a negative Duv even with several rounds of testing. That surprises me as numbers from Simon/Convoy indicate it “should” be positive.
OTOH looking at the color of the chart below, it does seem consistently accurate to what I see. More yellowish than magenta’ish and hugging BBL closely.
You left out some info which generally effects measurement of LEDs quite a bit: tir optic/reflector/bare led? what current are you measuring the LED at?
Without that info your measurements are close enough to my own (also from Convoy) to be believed.
Thanks - good points. I tested with Sofirn clear optic but didn’t think about bare LED. Now that I know what’s involved, will be more complete next time.
519a 4500k in Convoy S21D with Sofirn Clear Optic (the OEM frosted optic’s numbers didn’t change much). Tested at center of beam. 100% Brightness: Duv –0.0037 20% Brightness: Duv –0.0019. Other runs ranging –0.0020-0.0030
CCT similar to yours ~ 4100K
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