Oshpark Projects

[quote=Mattaus]

Awesome. Let me know more about your color customizations and I’ll help modify the code. Also I’ve found a slight flicker problem on white under certain battery and temperature conditions, it can be fixed by using a 0.2 ohm sense resistor instead of 0.13 (setpoint 1A instead of 1.5A). Personally it doesn’t bother me enough to drop the current but others may want to

The flickering is possibly because the LM3410 is being pushed to it's limits at 1.5A. Depending on what voltage you are bucking/boosting to, you may be tripping the internal current limit perhaps? Either way 1A is fine for me, so if you're getting reliable operation at that current, then that's what I will go with.

I don't intend on doing any colour mixing - just straight white, red, UV and green - so I've been modifying the PCB as I no longer require so many FETs. My UI would also be considerably simpler as a result of not mixing any colours. Still a long way off needing a programmed PIC though as I have a few other things I am doing that take precedence :(

- Matt

In the above photo, is the emitter on the far left a Luxeon UV emitter? I seem to recall you mentioning one that fits on XQ pads...

link to 15DD v2 in first post isnt working for me…

It's gone for a short while sorry. The latest version will be up in about 4 hours.

- Matt

Before I upload this to OSH, can someone confirm I have the numbers on the 'stars' correct please? As far as I can tell, from the pictures I've found, and based on numbering the stars left to right 1 - 4, then I have the labeling correct:

Yes it’s a lux uv

I've seen the 105c numbering described going both ways, but if the dummy #1 is at the left (the way it should be), then you got #2 & #4 swapped around. Star #4 goes to pin 2, #3 to pin 3, and #2 to pin 5.

edit: and the rest of the redesign looks great!

So now R3(possible current limit resistor?) is between source and ground instead of between drain and led- and gate resistor (R4, 130ohm) is on blue trace (backside)under C1 with pads for R5( possibly unnecessary) at top (backside). Looks good to me.


Yup :) Link to corrected V3.0 on OSHPark: http://oshpark.com/shared_projects/lQUEtZcJ

Updated op with new text on 15DD. Can you check to see if I have it correct?

Looks good to me.

Hi Matt,
There’s no need to modify the PCB, MELD2 already fits in the S10. You can just not populate the unneeded parts

Not sure why I wrote that but I was removing excess parts when I was aiming for a smaller host. The S10 is the plan at the moment, but I'm mucking about with an old Quark 123 I have. If I can get a momentary switch into that, then I'll go with that. Could be a little tricky though lol.

Ah, ok. What size is the PCB in the quark? If the momentary switch doesn’t work out, it’s possible to use power cycle to switch modes on these boards as well (with new firmware, but hardware is compatible)

I need a solar charge controller thingie, anybody know how to find something like that in Oshpark's shared projects?

How much current?

I have one on my shared list…it’s adafruit

Believe it or not…cheaper to buy them already made

I bought one off amazon for pretty cheap

Saw a guy do a hack on it to increase the current ALOT
http://techluck.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1313110955

Not sure, I don't have the parts yet. But it's going to be just a small array to keep a capacitor bank topped up. Using however many of these little panels in some configuration yet to be determined, and this capacitor-thing.

I saw those controllers on ebay, cheap, but didn't know if they were worth a crap.

Comfychair, that there is some cool mad scientist stuff! I like it. I have been stumbling trying to come up with a solar charger MTG2 camping lamp. Do you think that your experiment there coupled with Matts Knuckle Buck could run an MTG2 or a pair of them?

I would have some small ideas about organising first post, not sure it they are good or not, thou:

- how about adding all projects in a table, first column would be project link, than author, Input voltage range (so someone that did not follow all project could know how many cells can he use with that particular driver), max output amperage, link to needed parts etc

  • also it would be very helpful if we could find some alternative to DigiKey because, although they are good for us members they suck for everyone else, I just checked parts for Knucklehead V3.0: $11.02 for components and 120$ for shipping (that would be for FedEx or DHL, there is also United States Postal Service Priority Mail Express Internationa but I have to pay for the order first and when they prepare everything for shipping I will get bill for shipping which could be 10$ or 1000$, no one knows :Sp what a genius system)!!! or maybe we could negotiate with some of the chinese manufacturing capable sellers like Simon to make this drivers available pre assembled?

P.S. I also had some quick thoughts about battery monitoring and 2 cells problem(zener Nanjg).
If I understand correctly Attiny13 can’t monitor voltage of 2 cells because even with depleted cells voltage would be 2.8V*2 = 5.6V which is still too much for this mcu but what if we add a resistor to sensing pin just enough to drop let say 1.8V (or 2V)?
Then 5.6V would actally be 3.8V and the rest can be done in code?
Is this something viable or I am talking gibberish :stuck_out_tongue: ?