Oshpark Projects

Oh gotchya, it’ll be 8 bit (0-255).

Added a few things to the op like wight’s shutter switch, RMM’s Attiny breakout board and Led4power’s LD-1 expander board.

I can not get oshpark to accept an uploaded .zip project, I’ve tried the one I’m working on several times as well as some other zip folders that I have uploaded before without making any changes to them and I still get an error, it’s not giving my any specific error codes, just says “Error”.

Is it down for everyone else as well?

edit: tried some more now I’m getting a code-

Looks like it’s on their end.

They randomly do server upgrades and changes…try again in 20-30 minutes

I wonder how many people now use OSHParks rendering app for their stuff…just upload the files to see how it will look (I know I have done it a few times) :stuck_out_tongue:

Allright here it is, I’m really happy with this driver, this light will probably be my new EDC for a long time-

triple EDC v05

This is specific for a foursevens Quark body running a single Li-ion. The light will be converted to a 3-up using a 20mm noctogin (relatively simple conversion, diameter is perfect, just needs a slight spacer). The noctogon is setup for individual channel LED’s (also simple, no traces need cut just dont use any jumpers) and 3 different LED’s are used, a red XP-E2, a Nichia 219 and a white XP-L. The red XP is moonlight, the N219 is the main light source and the XP-L is used for added output.

The N219 has 6x 7135’s for 2.1A (this will provide 60minutes on max from the little 2200mAh 17650), the red XP-E2 has a single 7135 (only used for moonlight) and the XP-L is direct drive from a SOT-23 “baby” FET. The FET’s source leg is NOT grounded, it is supplied from the bottom contact ring which is grounded by tightening the head against the body. With the head loose the driver will only run the red XP / N219, tighten the head and the FET starts to power the XP-L.

The red XP-E2 will only be on during moonlight (and no white will be on for that), in “turbo” [head tight] both the N219 and the white XP-L will be running. To reiterate this is more than a single “turbo” mode, with the head tight the XP-L runs along with the N219 in all white levels. Unfortunately there is no way to turn off the N219 when the head is tight with this driver, that would take a whole new UI (and even a new MCU totally) and I wanted this project to use STAR so everyone has access to the technique.

The best part is-all this happens with a standard STAR off-time build utilizing the alternate PWM output for moonlight (the N219 and the XP-L run from the same PWM output). The ONLY change to the FW is a very simple one, you change DUAL_PWM_START to DUAL_PWM_STOP and swap around a single variable (see post 973 here )


You dont have to use that specific combo of emitters either, you could do something like use a N219 for moonlight and then 2 XP-L’s (in different CCT’s if you wanted), you could use the same combo of N219 / XP-L and a different color for moonlight (amber would work great also), really there’s several ways you could use this thing.

CK this driver you’ve made has really got me thinking. I’ve always wanted a red moonlight mode, but hadn’t thought of putting it in a triple. Hmm… i might swap a red xpe into my triple nicha S5. I’ll probably only have to cut some traces on my PZL driver and add some new wires.

Thanks for the inspiration!

Nice. Have you ordered/tested the board yet?

Wow, thanks for the work Warhawk, this is exactly what I’ve been looking for.

Just one question though, is the AMC7135 the only component one needs for this to work?

I’ve heard mention that an SMD cap such as a 16 V 10 uF is required also?

Not in my experience and there are 20mm stars with pads for 7135’s and a reverse polarity diode but not for a cap.

Just catching up on the thread, cool switch you found Wight.
RMM, thanks for that programmer board.

As more DIY drivers become available it is becoming significantly harder to select the right one for project if you are not following the thread constantly.
If I may suggest organising drivers by led type they are meant for or by input voltage, led voltage and led current!
Then, when someone is trying to find 2S cell driver for MTG2 led, he can do that quickly…

The organization, such as it is, is based loosely on driver type and then size. There’s a fair amount io duplication now but I have no wish to delete links without a request from the author or notification of a nonfunctional link. Many of these drivers are used for many different LEDs often with different voltages and all you do to use a different voltage led is look for where to put the Zener diode and 200 ohm resistor. It can certainly get overwhelming and reorganization is not unlikely but it’s assumed that if you have a question you will ask it and it will get answered. Most authors are good about starting threads to discuss the finer points so that such details aren’t buried here but it still happens. Such is the internet.

If someone would like to assume responsibility for this thread, change the format to table form, or whatever. I’d be happy to copy the entire OP in edit mode and send it as a pm. You would then be able to start anew with a blank thread. Maybe SB could figure out a way for another member to access/edit the op instead. IDK.

I was looking for this 2 things:

- high current single 18650 driver for XML2 (4.2V in and ~3.2v out, up to 8A but I would be thrilled with 6A) and

  • high current dual 18650 driver for MTG2/XHP type leds (8.4V in, 6V out)

I selected this 5 boards:
9A Zener Modified MT-G2 Driver copy
16mm 12x7135 Slave copy
BLF 17DD-Zener Revision 2 copy
BLF17-Linear-Z copy
[untested] 17mm A17DD-SO8 w/ ALT LAYOUT v043 copy

no particular light in mind but I prefer them to be 17mm dia (first one is larger, I know, but I did not find 17mm alternative) and AttinyA13 based drivers so I could flash modes.

Nah…the LDO regulator (the 7135) is fine, the cap is for input/output smoothing, from a battery power source it shouldn’t be an issue

For both lights I would choose the A17DD-SO8, for the last one with a zener diode.
One sided, no 7135 chips, the FET is widely available and high current depending on battery.

OK, thanks for your input fingers, in my country actually it is not that easy to find SMD stuff if you want to buy 1 piece so I have to check first what components I can get, fingers crossed :bigsmile: …

Here are some 10mm & 12mm Single-Sided FET drivers. The 10mm has been built and tested thoroughly, both inside and outside of a flashlight. These give you all of the performance of "big" FET driver in a tiny package, while staying single-sided.

10mm

12mm

For programming the MCU, check out the MMU programming PCB in the OP.

Woohoo!

You sound very happy being out of a job building small drivers RBD. Where will I get my fix now on miniaturization?

Nice work! Two questions:

-A very useful size for a couple of AAA-flashlights (Ultrafire M5, Ultrafire LZZ-06 and clones) is 11mm as well, can you make that one too?

-I do not have the knowledge to sort that out, can anyone find out an ebay-link to a LFPAK33 FET for this driver? I can not judge if one is suitable, and all I seem to find are ones that are over 3 dollars each.