I have to admit that I’m new to the whole P60 thung, and was wondering whether you have a good recommendation for a P60 for my new Javelin. The Javelin is going to be used with the 3AA extension tube. So with three NiMH AA batteries, I’m looking at pretty much the same voltage as 1x18650. Since the light is going to be used primarily for night hiking, I want a floody beam and high efficiency. So I would like an XM-L2. An orange peel reflector would also be better for my use, but is not a requirement. But one of the most important thing is a light output of around 500 lumens with a current draw of 1.5-2A. P60s don’t dissipate heat very well, and a 3A, 1000 lumen high that can only be used for a couple of minutes before powering down is pretty useless to me. Unless such a drop-in can be found that also has around a 500 lumen medium (but NOT one with a 900-1000 lumen high and 150-200 lumen medium). Modes are not particularly important so long as I get 500 lumens at a modest current (even single mode would do). Is such a drop-in available? Most everything seems to have a 3A high and around a .75A medium, which is NOT what I want.
assuming the P60 has regulated driver like nanjg 105c 2.8A, at medium mode still only about 50%. so wrapping the pill with copper ring / copper tape sheet / create copper fin is good. me pick copper tape sheet as the easiest solution.
Go with the new SolarForce dropin. I picked up the new XM-L2 U2 dropin, it draws 1.9-2.0 amps and should be putting out 600 lumens. Comes in three flavors 1,3,and 5 mode.
I have their XM-L U2 drop in. It’s good, but works much better with 8.4v rather than 4.2v, no idea if the XM-L2 is the same, but if it is, then I’d have thought it would only under perform on 3xAA NiMh’s.
+1 for solarforce xm-l2 drop-in you can use high mode for quite a while.
I ended up ordering the Solarforce. We’ll see how it works. By the way, Imwill be running it on 3xAA NiMH. So it should perform similarly to 1xLi-Ion. I guess I could always get three more extenders to get the same effect as 2xLi-Ion. That woukd make for one crazy long, thin light!
My Solarforce drop-ins were under driven (.80 on high) - unreliable (1 out of 2 lasted 3 days) and not inexpensive.
Runtime was pretty good however. (.80 on high = no heat problems.)
Their hosts are very good.
This has me wondering how good this drop-in is going to be. But I guess if it conks out, at least it’s not like it costed $50. Maybe I should look for a backup. What do you think of this ? It’s only single mode. But that’s okay. Also, it has a smooth reflector. But if the Solarforce conks out, I can always do a reflector swap.
That looks good to me.
Nanjg 105c so you can choose your own modes by soldering stars and currant controlled.
I just ordered the Manafont dropin from the BLF sale at $7.20.
Plus the S-R 5 host.
http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/ultrafire-265mm-cree-u2-5mode-memory-led-dropin-module-42v-max-p-9932
I build a lot of lights for emergency personnel in my area. XP-G and older style SolarForce dropins were unreliable. I’ve never had to replace an XM-L dropin. ALXM’s from Intl-Outdoor are the hot rods at 3 amps and also reliable. Original poster wanted around 500 lumens. If 3 NiMH don’t give it the juice it needs 4 will definitely take it over the threashold.
The Solarforce drop-in that died was one of the 3 to 8.4 v. XM-Ls.
Solarforce refunded me $4.00 to buy a Nanjg 105C from DX. >)
I told S/F that their drivers were weak and I needed a better one.
I’ve heard on other threads that the 8.4 S/F are unreliable.
The second one of the pair is still working at just 0.8A on high .
3A on high? No thanks! The biggest thing I’m looking for is a moderately bright high (around 500 lumens) that is capable of sustained operation without overheating. 3A may be brighter. But in a small, P60 light, it’s only going to be good for a few minutes. Then it’s probably down to 150 lumens.
At 3 Amps depending on the battery you’ll have enough juice for full brightness for at least a half hour. And then maybe an hour of decreasing brightness.
Of course it will likely get hot in 5-10 minutes……
So run it on med or low - save high for emergency’s.
My stereo goes to 10 I usually run it at 3 — keeps the neighbors off my porch.
My boat I run at wot until the oil gets hot then I have to go back to med or low for gas mileage.
If someone borrows it warn them.
One problem with the "that's what medium is for" argument is that medium modes work at something around 60-65% efficiency on most Nanjg type drivers. Why give up 35-40% of runtime if you don't need to?
A lower power driver is the better choice if you don't really need a "boost" mode.
I didn’t realize that the inefficiency was so high.
I just checked that 105C I used to fix the defective 8.4v S/F driver
I got
2.95a. on high
.93a on med
.15a on low
The brightness on med is pretty usable