I like 5ar’s original design, it works for me in every aspect.
I would like to think that having had close to 200 lights of my own, this gives me some experience in these matters. Having modified over 400 flashlights, I’m pretty sure that qualifies me. All the check points are there in 5ar’s design. It’s unique, it’s functional, it’s pleasing to the eye and the hand. It has style cues on a popular flashlight but doesn’t look like it for the most part (hold up your L6 and look at em side by side, plenty of differences and then figure in the sheer size factor.)
This is what’s wrong with taking a popular vote on a design, the choices get split and there’s no clear winner. I would venture a guess that for those people that would actually put a light like this to use, on a regular basis, the 5ar render is the go-to choice. The head style gives a rugged nature that wouldn’t allow it to get banged up easily, and at the same time it could do some banging if that’s what was needed of it. As a user’s tool, the design we currently have is an excellent choice.
Kawi got several TN42’s for $161 ea. I got mine for $179. He’s modifying two of his, I’ve bumped power in mine and am seeing just over 710Kcd. I was cautious, not knowing how much the driver could stand as this whole 12V thing is pretty new to me. I may try again and give it a little more… if I end up frying the driver I’m not against using a ramping FET driver and going whole hog.
Those flat sides lose a tremendous amount of surface area for cooling and serve no real purpose. Sure, it looks neat. But it’s function that establishes form, not the other way around.
Could the fins be “cut” the same depth on a circular profile such that they’d be thinner on the flats and deeper on the corners? The 6 flat sides has a neat look, perhaps it could be 5 flats and 5 indentions in the bezel/head? They’d match and the 5 on the bezel or head portion would give an anti-roll property.
Maybe you could draw it up this way for fun and see how it looks?
(My thought on the 5 flats is that you’d have a corner opposing the flat where the switch resides, helping to locate the switch by feel.)
One worry I have had for awhile is that the switch is too “tall” compared to the handle. What is the size of the area where the switch is compared to the handle?
I agree with Dale, the flat sides do have a neat look but also loose a lot of cooling ability.I would really like the fins cut as deep as possible without making them weak.
Indeed, you’ll lose a lot of surface area so I dont think its a good idea.
Not sure what you mean? You want to make the fins the same depth as they are thick?
The only problem with 5 sides is that you’ll lose the tripod mount. You dont have 2 opposing sides anymore for a side switch and tripod mount.
Also, those flats on the head wont contribute to the anti roll function. They wont touch the table when you have the battery tube installed.
Hmm. Just tried it with 5 flats and 5 cut outs on the head but they wont line up… Not sure why. Though It had 6 cut outs on the head so with 6 flats they line up on the high spots.
Well when it comes to taste everybody is expert of their own
Love the design Thijsco more Q8 like
Yes only a flat for the button and tripod mount since those serve a purpose.
Indeed this weekend it the time to get to a outside look
The original design needed some updating anyway so this is the moment
I have PMed 5ar and I think that if he manages to get that done we will see a render that looks like the original, Jerommel and Thijsco design are merged into a pleasing result we all can live with.
These Jerommel and Thijsco input got a good idea and supplement the original design IMHO
(Lol I had a design where I took the Q8 and just widened the fins to end where the smooth surface of 5ars original started (above the strap attachment point)
But did not want to complicate things and saw that Thijsco has made something not all that different yet addressing some issues of the first render.
The longitudinal slots on the bezel/head will stop it from rolling on a table.
Who says the tripod mount HAS to be directly opposing the switch? From a photography perspective it would make most sense to mount the light on a tripod that can extend quite high, to give an angle to the beam that would be overhead. If the switch was on top, it’d be dang difficult to reach! If it was on the next flat to the tripod mount it would be easy to change modes even if mounted overhead.
I understand you my friend, and It`s much appreciated, don`t get me wrong :+1:
And that idea with 6 flat sides have my attention! Then the light can be laid down on a table with the head outside, and still don`t roll away…
I liked that ide
But I cant wait to see 5ar new rendering with all that was mentioned in post #1307
Not sure why anyone would want it table stable with the head off? Every time you remove the head you introduce contaminants to the closed system, the reflector will end up dusty and possibly even fingerprinted. This is why the big names glue lights, it’s how they can control the closed waterproof system for an extended warranty.
Edit: about the fins, with flats on the switch portion…. we have a circular hole on the inside with threads for the battery tube to screw into, right? What if the fins were cut first, before the flats, such that the fins would all be the same depth, then the flats cut such that the flat areas still have some fins, they just wouldn’t be as deep on the flats as on the corners. This would give variable depth to the fins and create a turbulence from the heat rising away from them, possibly helping to create a pull that would aid heat transfer to the air when stationary, like on a tripod. Just a thought, don’t know if it’d be viable or not.
Ah after checking post 1307 is mine
No worries if it gets forgotten in the thread, it is just awesome to see all you bright minds posting, lol I forgot my own posts because of it.
And for what it is worth, I just know I’ll love the GT no matter how it looks, this new journey already makes it beautiful!
Agree, I am sitting on a big chest thing close to the empty beehive as I type (bees need to be gotten next spring)
I love this spot
On our bamboo island, La Tardoire zflowing by, a view on the fruit island
I sit here a lot, and at night lay down my flashlight (the horror light dims and I have no flashlight with me argh )
Anti rolling is important
Say why not 7 flats and cut outs?
I know I just love the numbers 4 and 7 (ever noticed the number of cutouts on a Q8 fin
Yeah if we flatten it 7 times a lot of material remains
And wilding things up (WUT is wilding up a thing, autocorrect ia not happy with it ) , have two tripod mounts, on either side of the switch
No strap ooening just toss in one of those before mentioned tripod Mount fitting thingies where a strap can be connected to
When using high on a tripod like Dale said the switch is facing downward so this easy to operate.
And a unique look
I just see it in my mind
(Hurry 5ar or it’ll turn into a nightmare )
Cheer! after a day of hard work (planting 17 fruit trees, basically re-planting 5 lavender, dividing 1 raspberry into 2 meters worth of it, planting several herbes) I usually take a beer
Not this time, just too happy with this thread forgetting time.
Dang it is dark, gotta cook, check back later. )
Solarforce includes this nice SS standoff for their tripod mount on the S2200, it’s threaded for 3/8 male on one end (to fit their tripod mount hole) and 1/4 female on the other to fit an adapter if need be. It’s also got a through hole for tightening which could feasibly be a lanyard mount.
I may have had a bit too much coffee for these quick macro’s to have turned out really well, but you get the idea.
The S2200 is no small light in it’s own right, with an approx 70mm reflector diameter and 70mm depth it has a great beam with the huge MT-G2 emitter and a very well done soft OP reflector. Bezel is 81mm.
