The Uniquefire UT20 is very similar in outer size to a C8 and has nice zooming action
Rightio then, a little update.
I have shown the options to him, those listed above and a few others I found.
He has decided to be a bit more stricter in what he wants.
As little spill as possible.
A head no larger than that of the UT20.
No strobe or SOS or some other useless mode.
Prefers to not have a “twist to focus” setup, or if it has to be, one with minimal travel and no exposed threads (pulp would block it all up).
So, it rules out the normal UT20, but I came across Mountain Electronics and at the moment we’re looking into the UT20 host, an XPL-HI and a QLITE REV.A driver and setting it up to suit what he wants (most likely 3 mode and a high running around 2A).
It seems to be the better compromise at the moment.
I have no issues putting it together.
My only question now is, how durable is the UT20? can it take a bit of a beating in a dirty and rough environment?
The Warsun X50 has a sliding zoom. I don’t know if the sos mode can be disabled, you could always fit another driver.
The twist zoom light’s aren’t always that quick to adjust, I’m not sure about the UF-T20.
I like that myself but too big for him, and we don’t have any 26650 cells.
AAs are an option but the convenience of a single 18650 is too good, and we have 40-50 cells between us.
Looking around, I wouldn’t mind a convoy L2 myself, just for shits and giggles, haha.
As for the twist bit, the main turn off was when I showed him one which had over an inch of travel and required far too many turns, and it also had exposed threads.
The UT20 I think extends around 11mm or so, not sure how fine though.
Find a C8 with the modes you want and swap in an old dedomed XP-G2 emitter (the new ones care different). Convoy, XinTD, or UltraFire will make good hosts and with nothing more than a centering ring it makes quite a thrower with very little spill. More a small-cigar-beam than a pencil-beam, but eye-damaging bright if you want to bypass the springs and drive it that hard. Lower modes are more than enough light and should give the needed run-time. If you need a stock light the Brynite B158 locked on the preferred zoom profile would do well but you’ll need to figure out how to lock it there.
Phil
The adjustment on mine is relatively tight so it needs a firm twist to adjust, far better than the Uniquefire that I also have which is ridiculously loose. 
Convoy BD04?
not sure about the modes though
Build a P60 dropin with an old XR-E R2 and run it at about 1.5 - 2A. Replace flat lens in a Solarforce L2 host with one of the cheap 26mm glass aspherics from DX or similar - you will have a square spot with next to no spill apart from some faint rings.
I have done this many times.
It will also work with XP-G2 and mayb even XP-L Hi, but I haven’t tried that.
Yet.
Hmm, something I didn’t think of.
But at $15 for the host, probably not too much to lose if it wasn’t suitable, or I’d just buy it off him and add it to my own, haha.
The strobe and sos of the Brinyte were deciding factors against it along with the bulky body, wouldn’t fit a holster at all, not that he has one, but he would like to eventually, if he can find one he likes.
I actually had a look around for a 26mm aspheric, couldn’t find one, so came to conclusion they aren’t available, I was obviously wrong but I still can’t find them.
Or is the Ahorton the only option for that?
Temporarily sold out.
http://www.dx.com/p/glass-optics-for-flashlights-28mm-5297#.Vy9GfGgRVJ8
Maybe this would work?
https://www.fasttech.com/products/1606/10020980/4512202-28mm-acrylic-replacement-convex-lens-for-led
Thanks for that.
I showed him the Ahorton setup and he’s pretty happy with that, so we will be going that way, just not sure which LED to use.
I’m thinking either XP-E2 R4 or the XPL-HI, maybe a dedomed XPG?
Right.
So, I think we’re getting to a point that he’s happy with.
P60 host, maybe another Solarforce, I’m thinking a Seraph SP-6.
Ahorton Aspheric
Dedomed XP-E2 R4 1A
GuppyDRV Qlite driver @ 1.14A
Reading around a bit, it seems the XP-E is reliably happy around 1A.
Is sealing a dedomed LED needed, if so what to use?
I think I’ll use a thermal adhesive to hold it in place, not too keen on soldering it to the pill, don’t want to chance frying it (If I bought a few spares I would).
Would you hold the iron to the back of the pill then put the PCB on, pre-tin both the PCB and pill? My biggest iron is 80w with a decent sized (6mm?) bevel tip, my cheapest but I bought it to abuse, I don’t abuse my Goot or cheapy/somewhat decent station.
I’ll also ebay some copper tape to wrap around the pill, do people still add any further thermal paste between the pill and the host?
Anyone got any further advice?
Don’t really need to solder the LED board to the pill.
Thin coat of thermal adhesive will do fine.
An XP-E run at that current won’t get all that hot, I wouldn’t go nuts on heatsinking the dropin to the host, myself.
Thanks, just looking to make it as reliable as possible, but if it’s not required, it’s not required.
Looking on the Cree website though, they list an XP-E2 “Torch” and an XP-E2, curious to know how to tell the difference when buying, as they have considerably different specs.
The non-“Torch” model seems more applicable.
Also, does anyone have experience with “FUJIK” thermal adhesive?
How well does it hold, does it actually set hard?
I’m not bothered if it can’t be removed.
Can’t help you with regard to those XP-E’s.
Also, don’t discount the old XR-E emitter.
It has a 90 degree viewing angle and works quite well in small aspherics as a result.
It will easily swallow 1.5A.
The Fujik ‘thermal adhesive’ will set hard like a kind of sealant. It can be softened with head and scraped off.
The Fujik ‘thermal compound’ doesn’t set and is like a grease. I’ve been using it on a few projects and the fact that it’s non-setting makes emitter board swaps pretty easy - so long as you can keep the LED centred where it needs to be with spacers etc.
Thanks.
Looking at the XR-E, it seems it’s a bit harder to find, but not impossible, may mean another order from another place, seems it’s free shipping but time wise, could be quite some time.
Sounds like though, that the XR-E may be as or more suitable for the job, while he seemed happy with the XP-E, I think a slightly tighter spot the XR-E will offer may be preferable.
It got me thinking though, I have his old ebay zoomer here and checking on ebay, it has an XR-E Q5 in it, it doesn’t look the same as the product pics though (no metal ring).
But I’ve got nothing to lose by trying to use it, it’s on a 14mm board though, but I don’t see any issue with that, may make it a bit harder to line up though.
I may still try and get a couple of others though, an XP-E and an XR-E Q5/R2, as I’d like to make one for myself.
Am I right in thinking the slightly less lumens they throw out won’t really be that important, as the light is concentrated?
And since his needed range is only around 30m, it should be more than ample?
I’ll grab the Fujik thermal ‘adhesive’ then.
Yeah pretty much. 90 degrees for the xr-e, 115 for the xp-e.
Don’t be scared to drive the xr-e hard. 1.5A won’t be a problem.
I’ve got one in a Brinyte B158 with a 2.1A driver. 
The tiny Sipik SK68 with an XR-E throws good when run on a 14500 battery and it has a tiny lens.
Cool, I’ll use this XR-E I have here (if it is indeed an XR-E).
The smooth reflector that I ordered off DX a couple of weeks ago came in the mail today and it also came with a pill.
So, all I need now is the driver, Fujik and the lens to get it going.
I’ll probably order the drivers and Fujik tonight.
This is what I have, I think it may be an XP-E?
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNch897VvwgxRhphSV_bQxkcteqE-41iRHVYVcxh6Rxyc74PUljWcIcH-hQrzf6bQ/photo/AF1QipNEXRx0b-TnSXC2SO7BynbW0I\_\_0IX2qxxcjks8?key=eU9XT1dpUHZUZFpCYTZCVlRWaFFEVXNkOEpqNm1B
It came out of one of these.
They’re total junk in case you’re wondering.
Yeah, that’s an XP-E
You should get a new XP-E2, rather than use an old emitter. The newer ones have greater efficiency, so that you get more lumens per watt. That way, you can get all the light you need with more run-time than the older emitters will give you. If you de-dome a XP-E2, you get a very small spot of light, especially up close. I can’t imagine needing any tighter than that, unless you need to light up something on the other side of a door by shining your flashlight through the keyhole! 
Edit: By the way, while I’m giving my opinions, I may as well add one about LED seal. I’ve never used it, and really don’t see a need for it as long as the LED will already be ‘sealed up’ inside the head of the flashlight. XP-E2 are really easy to de-dome safely and can survive some handling outside of the flashlight without the dome on.