How long did the batteries sit idle…sometimes it takes a few charge/discharge cycles to perk em back up (as long as they aren’t at the end of their recharge cycles that is)
Just harvested my first pack—a Lenovo.
It was rather flimsy, and not hard to open at all.
Inside were 9 grey NCR’s with black vertical stripes at the positive end.
The physical harvest was simple.
The tough part for me now is reading up threads about
charging, discharge tests, and watching voltage drain, etc;
then Collating “Best Practices” to where I feel that I am
using safe procedures.
The Acer Samsung’s were sitting around for 3 - 4 days after charging before I had time to discharge them. I’ll discharge a couple this weekend to see if the results different. But if you’re asking about the used laptop batteries I’ve charged/discharged 5 or 6 of them 3 or 4 times already and the capacity hasn’t varies much. I’ve come to the conclusion that used packs are rarely a good deal and not worth my effort to find the few good batteries in them.
I just discharged a fully charged lightly used Sanyo UR18650FM that has a 2012 date code and it came out at 2371mAh. So already these Samsung’s are looking like a good deal.
I should be getting a second pack in this week and will hopefully get similar results.
45$ shipping, oh my….
The 9 Samsung cells I’ve charged up and tested from these Acer packs have produced very similar numbers for capacity and resistance, according to my BT-C3100
pack, $12 Samsung 2600, on the way. The Samsung and my 2004!!–2008 Sony pulls rock.
These are NOS packs and will never waste time with used packs which can deplete life an average of 6% a year, as the very laptop I’m typing on. My older Gateway 6831XF sucked 20% out first year with much deeper recharge cycles.
I see that there are a lot of better analyzing chargers being used. We should add (1) 3A discharge test for those of us using single cell lights with 3 amp Qlite drivers. This will be the shared current on my 4 led SRK using the 11.2 amp BLF driver. The old Sonys have a 4 amp max discharge but voltage sag around 3.5-3.6 volt from, fresh charge. The newer(?) Samsung do a bit better but have not found spec sheet for the 26C battery. My IR average 112 to 118 so a high discharge battery should be way lower. My 25C liPo average 2-6 mOhm per cell.
Also might want to use the other thread to report battery testing.
and found date code for pack manufacture date: 8-20-2009. Check for white sticker inside shell. 2009 also on protection board.
All were out the box @ 2.5vdc and all 6 now charging around .400ma. All new, old stock.
Is this the right one to buy? It seems like there are multiple listings coming up.
I got 2 packs from this seller and all tested from 2511mAh to 2615mAh after charging.
Perfect. I’ll be using these in a diy battery power bank.
For the record I just got 2 more packs of these samsungs all came it at around 2.5 volts and no cut fingers, pretty happy camper!
As soon as I get paid I’m buying at least one pack. How well do these work in direct drive lights?
I only have 1 DD light, an hd2010 with a dedomed xml2 and I don’t have any of the high dishcharge batts to compare but it runs good. These are IMO a good bang for the buck, genuine, and ship fast
Looks good though I have not personally done pack pulling before. Any one have a link to a good tutorial? I have bought pulls from a member and found ends not smoothed after tabs removal as well as 25% with damaged shrink wrap covers, 5 of 20, so need to get some new shrink wraps from Illumn.com. I smoothed the ends with 240 grit wet or dry sand paper.
There is a tutorial I read on this site, can’t recall where, but basically all I do is what was mentioned , use a 1” chisel and put it in the seam and twist after you remove the tape that covered some of the seams and keep working your way around until you can grab it with your fingers and pry it open like a clam, pull the battery pack out, cut the batterys apart with a pair of dykes and instead of ripping the tabs off I cut them as close to the weld as possible then burnish the sharp ends with the round end of a crescent wrench and they flatten right out smooth, no risk of tearing holes in the batts
Actually just this eve I included one of these cells in a battery test cycle I went thru on a BLF17DD light. Main goal was to test the new Pana BD's I just got in, but these Sam 26's are right in-between unprotected Panasonic B's and the Pana PD/PF/BD class.
Host: SupFire L6 w/BLF17DD, XM-L2 T6 4D/copper:
Pana BD:4.21v - 5.28A
Pana PF: 4.20v - 5.24A
Sam ICR26C: 4.20v - 4.53A
Sam ICR 28A: 4.29v - 4.58A
Pana 2900: 4.18v - 4.24A
Pana B 3400: 4.16v - 4.16A
On the best cells, this light does over 6A.
I finally have one of those adjustable-voltage charging boards on the way from Richard [for the 4.3v –28As’], but if I can get similar performance just by jamming cells into my i4 that would be wonderful.
I have a cheap 4.35v charger (one HKJ was not so happy with), though it seems to only charge up to 4.30v.
And I have a charger marked as 4.20v, but it charges to 4.30v. Looks exactly like this one - http://www.fasttech.com/p/1046800 - except mine says on the back '650mAh' where that one says '600mAh'. The internals could be totally different, who knows. But mine will charge the 28As to exactly 4.30v if you leave them plugged in. I think the light does change color at 4.2v, but checking voltage with no cells in it it's at 4.30v.
This one came bundled with the first cheap 501B I got off ebay.
Any one sure what the actual proper charge voltage is for the batteries from these packs? I do have the XTAR VP2 charger which gives a choice of 4.2V or 4.35V. I know most lithium Ions are 4.2V but LG and Samsung do some 4.35V units. I have some of the LGs. Who does 4.3V and is there anything other than a hobby charger that can properly fully recharge the 4.3 volt batteries?