You think yours was underdriven? The stock Yinhex pushes a whopping 800 lm OTF.
The linear regulation has issues with so many chips. It works, but only with Sanyo cells due to the higher voltage during discharge. Also, I need to do a few more upgrades as I’m pretty sure it’s not regulating for long (much beefier wires for example). I might get this first stage mod posted this weekend, fingers crossed.
The reflectors in this light are smaller but very well polished. The big problem with this light is the bezel and the reflector cover. A lot of light is blocked by these. To give an idea. With the reflector cover, lens, and bezel in place, I got it up to 2250 lm. Take off the bezel and reflector cover (so, reflectors and lens only) and I get 2440 lm. About 200 lm eaten by the cover and thick bezel.
Oh, one more thing; I just happened to have an AR coated lens that fits this YinHex perfectly. I’m glad I ordered two of them 
That alone gave me about 200 lm.
Relic, did you happen to post a mod thread yet or did I miss that? I saw some details in your give-away thread and it looks like youve built quite a creation. Please tell me that you took a few photos of your multi-nanjg slave/master set-up. 
Im impressed that the higher discharge voltage of the ZT’s held regulation during your run. GREAT RESULTS!
I have the same observations as you: the bezel and mounting depth of the reflectors in the head capture several lumens. Your reflectors are definitely superior in every way to mine. Ive ordered 10 degree TIR optics that are shorter and slightly larger in diameter than the originals. They will protrude past the reflector captive plate. The idea is that I can lower the plate below the level of the TIR’s. To keep out dust and seal the gap I will use slotted orings and silicon around each TIR base, avoid a lens all together and the optics should throw all the light past the 3/4” of protruding aluminum. A set of boom reflectors wont fit so these seem to be the next best thing. The guys on MTBR say they work with incredible results w XML so my fingers are crossed. Retesting the stock reflectors almost made me take them outside and run them over with my pickup! May god strike down the creator!
BTW, can you please post a link to where you ordered your AR lens?
Hey FlashPilot, I’ll try to get the mod post up tonight.
The AR lens is no longer available. 
I just found out the AR lens would have been to small anyway. But Im glad you found one that works for you. I ordered the optics from LEDDNA, which takes forever in shipping. Now I see fasttech is carrying them as well. I ordered stuff from fasttech and leddna the same day and got the fasttech stuff a week ago. Im still waiting on leddna. SHEESH!
I have been reading all SKY RAY XY-600 threads with interest, the build quality and design of this light is very nice when you consider the price but the crappy LED’s, the reflector and performance is a joke.
I am by no means unfamiliar with electrics being an Avionics Aircraft Engineer but I have never modded a light before but if I am to keep this SKY RAY XY-600 I will be forced to. my old SkyRay King is far superior to this?
Any updates, pictures or “how-to-do’s” regarding this light? I am ready to mod it for some serious power output and not too bothered about run-time as long as it lights up like the sun
I would require however a few direct guidelines concerning what to buy and preferably where if possible.
What is the status of this light being modded? anybody got theirs done to a satisfactory state?
Still think it would be nice to keep the 6 LED setup - thicker gauge wire, new drivers and TIR lens’s ?? Any thoughts…?
Im currently waiting on an order from LCK-LED for TIR’s to arrive, but it isnt looking to good. I may have to reorder from fasttech; if the other place doesnt delivers soon. In comparing the head sizes of this light to other similar 5 x XML versions or the SRK, the XY-600 is a great deal larger and should provide a much larger surface area for heat exchange. Relic successfully heavily modified the 5 XML version and it came out really well, but is limited by the heat it produces if ran in high mode. IMO, the SkyRay XY-600 is an excellent quality mod host if you were lucky enough to acquire a good example. Some were reported as having some fairly shoddy work & finish, so I guess I got lucky (mine is nearly flawless).
At the moment, mine puts out a ton of light in direct drive (no driver), but the horrible reflectors ate up at least half of the available lumens. In fact, its brighter with bare emitters than it was with the reflectors mounted. After experimenting with TIR’s and possibly other reflectors, I might upgrade the switch and feed wires to 20 gauge for a few more amps. I have XML2’s on 16mm stars on hand for replacement if necessary, but first I’ll wait to see how the TIR’s impact the tint of the stock emitters. If Im happy with the results, I’ll probably attempt a driver solution similar to the relic masterpiece I linked above.
I’ll update when the 10 degree TIR’s arrive but Im anticipating extremely good results (given what the MTBR guys say about them). IMO, dont be afraid to tear yours apart and experiment. You’d probably be hard pressed to create something worse than how it came delivered.
Thanks a million FlashPilot for the update, My example of the SKY RAY XY-600 seems to be very close to perfect as well, the thread screws on much smother than my SRK and I love the design. Not too big and yet big enough to give an impression…
I have only turned my on for a few seconds and was SO disappointed that I put it back in the box and continued to use the SRK. I think I will wait until your update and then order all I need in one go if possible.
I am looking forward to a finalized project, all the options and different ways to go about is what is confusing me, I have read the thread carefully and understand it all but until the right combination is found I will leave it. (My way of saying that I will leave all the hard work to others and then exploit their knowledge - I am not lazy or rude - just do not have the knowledge to begin this task yet - Sorry )
Again thanks for your very fast reply, looking forward to see your result - I am sure it will be fantastic.
You’re welcome Robert. Sorry this thread has dragged out to be so long. leddna still hasnt replied to my emails about the missing TIR optics that I ordered so I just upgraded my paypal dispute. Now that Ive had more time to rethink my options, I just might make this into a 4 x XML2 thrower… or one that has more throw than flood.
Looking over Old-Lumens SRK mod thread with 15 degree fasttech TIR optics, the wall-of-light concept is very attractive but I already have several flood lights. Besides, if a set of reflectors are of a descent design, there should still be more than adequate spill beam with a multi-XML light.
Thanks to agator007’s post about finding a good 25mm long throwing reflector, I could fit 4 of them in the XY-600 with some room to spare.
Driven at 3A each with 4 x XM-L2 emitters might be a better option than 6 XM-L’s with TIR’s driven at 2A each… at least for my use. Id only need 3 drivers (ala-relic style) if I decide to give it modes later on. Im going to sleep on this for a day or two and do a little more research before I decide the direction of the mod.
On a really positive note, the head of this light appears to be machined from one solid chunk of aluminum, so it should be great for thermal transfer. Even the floor plate seems to be part of the head, and its a very descent 5mm thick, with the outer 5 emitters contacting much thicker aluminum than the floor plate around the circumference. But because the head has been machined to countersink the 16mm pcb’s into the floor plate, its going to be difficult to change the original configuration without a lot of work and still maintain a good thermal path; and while not decreasing the distance from the emitters to the lens by adding material over the existing floor plate. Im going to see if I can find 1.5x16mm copper slugs to fill the voids of the 6 emitter PCB’s and rethink this. I presume these are 1.5mm thick.
Theoretical 26mm reflector swap:
Stock reflector: 17.67mm long x 20.79mm wide OD
Reflector retaining ring contact edge: 1mm
Total depth to lens: 18.67mm
Replacement reflector:16.67mm long x 26mm wide OD
Thickness of replacement PCB: 1.5mm
Total depth to lens: 18.17mm
Its close bit it looks workable.
Robert, something you might try is removing the round non-conductive “donut” insulators from around all the emitter stars and press the lenses directly over the emitters. They fit perfectly. While its not a vast improvement, putting the emitters deeper into the stock reflectors does give a better beam profile and some more lux. If you decide to try this, make sure the power wires are soldered correctly on all of your emitters so they will not contact the reflectors. If they make contact anywhere, a dangerous dead short will be created and it could end in disaster.
Im going to avoid this mod and move forward with something more radical.
Size comparison from indenial’s thread. My Wallbuys Xmas Order- Skyray XY-600 and Solarforce Raging
SR XY-600, Solarforce Raging, SRK
I didn’t realize the 6x one was bigger than the 5x version I have. I was thinking they just jammed in another emitter and reflector. Yours seems to have a better head design, not hollow.
Having seen the thread with the SRK with the TIR lenses I think I will order a few of those ( 6) then maybe 3 drivers bumped up to 4-4.5 amp each and drive two LED’a in series with one master and two slaves? do this sound like a good idea? Then each led will get 2-2.25 Amp. I DO need a flood light as it is a “walk-around” flashlight inspecting aircraft’s during “turn-arounds”
Anybody who can recommend good drivers in this range? or will I have to modify them to bring them up to +4 amp’s?
I have also read somewhere that there is a huge difference in light output in different TIR lenses, If I want 15 deg TIR’s for this what is the brightest to get? Where? I know FlashPilot is still waiting for his, so LEDDNA might not be my best bet?
If the switch can’t cope with the 12-13 amps I am quite happy to change it for one that can, also my torch normally runs in 15 min. periods so I doubt overheating will be an issue?
Lastly I need a driver with a minimum of 2 modes super-bright for normal use and dim mode for inside in avionics compartments and cockpits for reading part-numbers and the like and being too bright is not good in these situations. ( would prefer a 10-50-100 driver)
Looking forward to see if there is any who comes up with a finished XY-600 that blows everything else away
Youre looking at a fun, but complex build similar to relic’s. It all sounds possible and all the information on how to do it is available. For each pair of emitters wired in parallel, you’ll probably need to match each pair by vF or one emitter will probably hog up all the current. Im not sure how much current the stock switch can handle. My target will be 12A as well. If it doesnt survive, I’ll be shopping for a replacement. TIR optics deliver a very smooth flood type beam. In general, the wider the beam angle, the less efficient the optic. For closer ranges, they probably cant be beat in producing massive even flood lighting.
I found another source for the same 10 degree optics but you’ll need to buy 2 packs.
http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1580 Whatever you do, dont purchase anything from LEDDNA unless you dont mind filing paypal disputes.
IMO, if you’re building this light for aircraft inspections, I think its going to be grossly overkill - even for the largest heavies. Have you tried a good C8 size light yet? (single XML driven @3A).
Aircraft inspections? I’d hate to be the guy inspecting on the other side when you nail him with the beam from this (modded) light. 
After thinking it over, I opted for 4 of these larger reflectors. Each emitter will initially be driven at 3A with a dedicated 7135 driver for each (master/slave config). I will probably use XML U3’s on sinkpads unless XML2’s later show to be more efficient with this type of driver… I have plenty of both on hand.
Goals:
- Good throw with moderate spill using efficient well focused reflectors.
- long run time in high mode (about 1.5 hrs)
- ability to run in high mode continuously without overheating.
I think any more amperage will probably produce a hot running light with shorter run times and diminishing gains in lumens above 3A each per emitter.
If I dont like it, I’ll start over again! :bigsmile:
Not only that but it could decimate a pilots night vision (a huge punishable no-no) if shined the wrong way, if only for a moment. I guess it depends on where it will be used. In general for night operations, pilots start-up and taxi without strobes or spots until lined up for take-off. Even requests to momentarily increase ALS (approach lighting system) intensity are frowned upon until all aircraft in the vicinity using night vision equipment have been warned, cleared and agree. Unless this is to be used at a small uncontrolled field with light traffic, Id probably keep that sucker at home.
Gent’s….
I have been doing Aircraft line maintenance in 25 plus years and in the night there is not a too bright flashlight. In a civil airport NO aircraft will have night-vision equipment - only military A/C’s carry that stuf
No punishment for using a strong inspection flashlight as well, the human eye and perception in the brain is pretty shi… to be honest so a very bright flood light will enhance the chance of finding irregularity’s on the inspection.
If you ever approach an aircraft with a laser-light it is a hole different story and yes, pointing directly into the cockpit with any bright flashlight should be avoided.
Let’s not hi-jack this thread into an aircraft inspection discussion, I just want some info on how to modd this light into a real monster
I have now ordered 15-Deg TIR lens’s and plenty of 105c 17mm 2800mA 5-Mode Memory Regulated LED Drivers, still not completely sure how I am going to attack this? I will wait until the parts starts to arrive… ( could take month for Italy as the customs here are crazy)
Had another idea? if I can fit the drivers under each LED ( TIR’s is shorter than OEM lens and there has to be room for heatsink as well?) will it then be a good idea to run each LED on its own driver? could take one or two of the 7135 off to regulate the driver to 2100-2450mAMP? or would I still be better off with “uppen” them to 4-4.5 amp and run two on each?
Anybody who has gotten any closer to a complete rebuild???
It would be easier to run one driver per emitter in a master/slave configuration. There are several examples and references in this thread. Consider running each emitter at 2.45A by removing one 7135 per driver (and see how that goes). That would be 14.7A total, and 3.68A from each cell… not bad. Medium mode is still going to be very bright for a flood light.
Because of their depth, I have a feeling that the 15 degree TIR’s will wind up casting light onto the inside of the bezel/head because of their wider beam angles with XML… but I could be wrong. Even if the 10 degree optics (that I had originally intended to use) wound up lighting the inside of the bezel, I was prepared to cut a thick circular piece of aluminum to affix to the floor plate to lift the emitters closer to the lens. That should help prevent wasting the spill beam and killing the output. Post 59 has a link for the 10 degree optics if youd still like to order them to compare.
My reflectors already arrived today. Wow… that was fast!
I ordered 10, just in case a few were not up to par. With some coaxing, it looks like five will fit if arranged around the perimeter of the light - if the star boards were lifted up a few mm. This would be necessary while using these reflectors to maintain contact with the lens to clamp them into place and to keep them from contacting the sides of the head. For testing purposes, keeping them in place while tightening everything up for test runs proved to be impossible… at least for now.
I did a few single XML comparisons between the two reflectors (stock and new). While the new reflectors do seem to provide a better beam, the improvements were not as much as I had expected. Looking again at the stock reflectors, I decided to take a chance and attempt to clean them. With IBM computer tape drive head cleaner (the industrial stuff I had from my older days but now outlawed by the epa), I tested a drop on a swab and the reflector shinned brilliantly without damaging the reflective surface. After meticulously cleaning them all up, I reassembled the light and was surprised to find how it had come alive.
So now Im going to rewire the tail and switch to coax some more amps out of the cells and retest. If it runs well, I just might keep it as-is. If not, I’ll be experimenting with the new reflectors and 5 emitters by disabling the 6th emitter. One thing is for sure, the huge 1 piece head does a fantastic job as a heat sink.