Thanks OF.
The driver from Dipper D19 bought from banggood.com. It is marked as “RNX-2.8A”. Did a tail cap reading and it got to 2.6A.
I am not sure if it can be resistor modded because I stacked a R100 on top of an R082 and tail cap readings boosted to 2.9A. This is using a pair of Keep power 4500mAh cells.
Thanks Rod911. Added to the OP. What light did you put the driver in if its not in the Dipper?
For fun, when I got my second Dipper D19, I thought to try the default driver with the MT-G2 rather than still wait for the undelivered LD-40 from intl-outdoor.com. To my surprise, the default driver worked. To my further surprise, the driver is one of those that have two sets of modes - first set is your usual low, medium and high modes (in that order), and your second set of modes is the same as before but with SOS and strobe. This driver whines a bit at medium. The PWM on it is pretty high, or maybe none at all (not sure), but I certainly cannot see it in low or medium modes, unlike the default driver in a Yezl Y3.
If I have to say again, the Dipper D19 (Convoy L2 clone) is awesome with an MT-G2. My theory of it being a good balance of throw and flood was proven correct after the emitter swap. I certainly see myself using this light more often than any of my >3000 lumens light.
After some testing last night, and the wee hours of this morning, I do believe the resistor mod worked. It is brighter than my Vinh modded Zebralight S6330vn, but not as the SP03 I got from 18sixfifty that he modded. In the lumens space, I think it’s outputting easily in the 3500 OTF mark with an R100 resistor stacked on top of the existing R0802.
I do have three LD-40 on their way to me, but I don’t think I’ll be using them because I have a spare RNX-2.8A driver and someone mentioned in the LD-40 thread, the PWM was noticeable in low and medium modes.
Here are the pics of the stock driver in a Dipper D19 bought from banggood.com
It looks meaty enough. I did a run-time test with a pair of KK 4000mAh cells the other night on both high and medium modes. Note that, the driver was modded with a stacked R100 resistor on top of the R0802, LED used was an MT-G2 and the host was a Dipper D19. The light still works today. 
I will be trying to mod this driver further to around 7.5A (two R100 resistors stacked on top of the R0802) when I get another D19 from banggood. I’ll report back if the driver is up to the task at that level.
Thanks Rod. Its looking real good so far. Fingers crossed.
Cool looking driver! The good thing about the MT-G2 is that it seems to be able to handle an insane amount of voltage ripple compared to an XM-L2...so there is quite a bit of leeway when you are using a buck driver.
I got my third Dipper D19 from banggood.com and proceeded to mod it into an MT-G2 light. I continued to use the stock driver, RNX-2.8A, but modded to a theoretical 7.5A by stacking two R100 chips on top of the R082. I am not sure if I have succeeded or not, but I have found these preliminary observations:
- tailcap readings with Keeppower 4500mAh cells are 2.6A on high
- the head heats up MUCH quicker than my previous RNX-2.8A which was supposed to drive the MT-G2 at 5A
- on high, the driver is only able to sustain that setting for around 30 seconds before it either shuts off or drops down to low. This is telling me it has some sort of temperature control feature that protects itself when it overheats. This does not happen to my 5A modded RNX-2.8A
Is it producing more light? I think so. But I have a diffuser in front of the lens, so I’m not really sure.
Also, will it the driver continue to be able to keep working longer term after it has been modded? Again, I am not sure, but the three times I tried to do run-times on high continuously, twice it went down to low and the third time, it shut off. The last time when it shut off, I thought I killed it, but after less than a minute of the whole head cooling down, the driver was working again.
I really do like this driver. Shame I cannot seem to find it on sale separately any where. The positive for me though is that the driver comes with my favourites MT-G2 mod host. 
edit: it looks like I’ve killed it. All good though. I do have a spare, but it does give me a chance to give a crack at the LD-40 I got from intl-outdoor!
edit 2: the LD-40 doesn’t fit properly in my 17mm to 20mm brass ring adaptor. I’ve tried filing it, but it’s starting to hit the ground at the edge of the driver. Instead, I’ll be canabalising the dead RNX-2.8A and getting its R082 and using that to stack it on top of the replacement RNX-2.8A. It’ll be a more conservative setup compared to before.
Thanks Rod. If that driver could speak I'd say it would be squealing from the torture.
I’m experimenting with the XHP70 and I built up an old Skyline I yesterday to use one. I used a MAXToch copper MT-G2 star and whittled on the reflector some. A pair of Efest Purple IMR18350’s was used. After I got done with it and took measurements, I didn’t really care for the beam profile from this ultra deep lens (~60mm deep x ~37mm dia.) So I stuck an MT-G2 in it.
Here’s the interesting part… Same light, reflector, lens, batteries, driver, even same star… The MT-G2 pulled 5.79A for 1966 lumens, the XHP70 pulled 6.68A for 3045 lumens. New kid beat up on the big ol emitter!
Driver is an old mattaus blf17dd fet, 2nd version with the partial ground rims on the battery contact side, Zener modded and using the Vishay 70N02 MOSFET.
The MT-G2 beam looks much nicer in this old light. Tightest hot spot I’ve gotten from the big emitter, and that gorgeous tint we love so much.
Next up, trying to get a DQG Tiny 6A boost driver to run the big boys in a Shadow JM26. No luck so far, don’t know what’s wrong, just got both today.
Did you by any chance eye ball the different beams outside at night. If so what are your thoughts. Thanks.
I shone a beam across our game room and the dark center was not acceptable, pulled it and put in the MT-G2. It was 25ºF outside, a few degrees below O in Celsius.
The boost driver from the DQG Tiny DOES indeed run this XHP70! Runs it at 2.64A from a 26650 Powerizer. That’s right, a single cell. Good for 1.5 lumens in low, 1373 in Turbo. Cool beans! So I am now the proud owner of a Shadow JM26 XHP70. :bigsmile:
I got DUP-S5 recently for an old Trustfire X8 that i have, it fit after some sanding, but an issue occured : it burned 2 XML2 emitters out, in a matter of seconds
So i wonder, can it drive MTG2 and what should i expect from that driver-emitter setup?
You DID wire the 2 emitters in Series, right? It says it’s good for twin emitters at 6V-9V and current regulated at 5A.
I would think it would run the MT-G2 or XHP emitters quite well with those specs, but then, I’m not the one to ask. I might fry emitters too.
Yep,i wasnt that clear maybe, sorry, it actualy burned 4 emitters in a row, two times by 2 - first pair was an old test emitters so i thought that actualy their time has come, but the second ones were fresh
Can it be caused by using 4.35v batteries( 8.2 vs 8.5…) ? Or its just the driver has somekind of a high ripple
I burned up about 8 XM-L2’s due to a ripple effect like that. Hard to just keep trying things I know.
Hopefully someone will chime in that’s tried that driver and knows whats happening.
Probably high ripple. I have not used this driver myself. The MT-G2 can withstand much, much higher voltage spikes than the XM-L2 can. The MT-G2 can survive on 3s DD for short periods at least.
I’m somewhat confident that this driver is supposed to be able to drive a single 3v emitter (such as XM-L2 or SST50) at 5A using 6-9v input. You should not need to put put 2x XM-L2 in series for this driver.
In any case I would not be very concerned about trying the driver with 2s1p 4.35v cells and a single MT-G2.
Is something with my setup?
I get 6.3A from 2x18350 purple Efest, MT-G2 Q0 on 20mm noctigon, BLF17DD-Zener, all in a ti -triedc host.
It gets burning hot within 10 seconds. 6.3A!!! Lower modes work fine so I don’t think it is shorting something. I get 0.9A on 15% and 2.4A on 40%.
Hi guys, I have a nanjg/zenner mod question here. Do I HAVE TO put the zenner diode across the capacitor or can I simply connect it between negative and positive (in parallel with the cap but in a different position on the board.)
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I modded a shadow bike light and put in an MTG LED. The driver is a Dr Jones mobydrv which was powering an XML2 previously. The wire for the electronic switch connects to the fourth star, which I covered in epoxy to prevent it from breaking off. Sadly, the capacitor was covered too so I connected the zenner between +ve and -ve on the other side of the board. The light worked! And everything (except voltage indicator) functioned as normal… until i recharged the battery and while plugging it back in, it shorted a split second and now, the light does not function properly. Sometimes it doesn’t work when plugged in, comes on when plugged in and works as normal till I turn it off when it doesn’t come on again. At that point, I’ll have to unplug and plug it back in till the light comes back on.
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I don’t know if these symptoms are due to the different position of the zenner and the higher voltage of a fully charged battery or if I fried something when the battery shorted 
Any ideas?
Thanks
It can be in a different position, as long as it's in parallel with the capacitor, and after the limiting resistor. If it's before the limiting resistor the zener diode will fry instantly with 6V+ applied to it.