Sorry - I didn’t realize that there was a different thread for throw measurements? Which one is that? I just searched, but didn’t see that, plus I have some new results, using a different set of 18350s (Efest instead of Sibeile)?
Thanks,
Jim
Edit: I found the other thread. I’ll post my new numbers with the Efest batteries and a pic of the dedomend MT-G2. There’s pics of the emitter itself here:
Thanks,
Jim
IOS "9 amp":http://intl-outdoor.com/9a-3mode-5512v-circuit-board-p-561.html?zenid=fn4op0poakq696m11c7btdd2j6 3 mode driver. These results were carried out with a mains power supply. There was lots of heavy wiring in the setup complete with a KAN 28 1.5 amp 250 volt rated switch inline. Measurements varied slightly with multiple runs carried out so should be taken as a roundabout figure. I have not used this driver in my light yet so cannot comment on the reliability of the setup. There was no delay in mode changes like the similar 5 amp driver.
10 Volt input into driver.
led amps led voltage
High 6 7.24
Med 2.64 5.5
low 0.86 4
12 volt input into driver
High 5.55 7
Med 2.44 4.08
Low 0.78 3.19
The information in this post is incorrect. Please do not use any information here for any purpose at all. My apologies MRsDNF
6 amps at 7.24 volts? That doesn't sound right... at that Vf the current should be around 8.5A. Did you take that voltage reading while the ammeter was in place?
Comfychair wrote:
6 amps at 7.24 volts? That doesn't sound right... at that Vf the current should be around 8.5A. Did you take that voltage reading while the ammeter was in place?
MRsDNF has some serious heat sinking in that light. A cooler emitter has a higher Vf, but I don't know if that makes the 6 amps reasonable.
Heres a couple of shots of the set up.
Any idea what I can expect if I wire 3 MT-G2’s in parallel using this driver? I have one on the way and I was planning on using it for the J-19 triple build.
I honestly would not have a clue. Guessing I would suggest around 1.5 to just under 2 amps but that is a stab in the dark.
I have the same driver and measured 9 amps at the output...
Well I can’t say I’m very happy with that but thanks for the heads up anyway. I also have their boost driver on the way that is good for 7 emitters I guess I’ll find out which one is better. I had other plans for that one but oh well that’s how the cookie crumbles.
I cant answer your question comfychair. It looks right to me if I look at it and compare what I was getting out of the 5 amp driver percentage wise. I have mentioned this before but I believe that with the higher voltage at the led that the current is dropped back being delivered by the driver. At the end of the day it could be my meters as well. I do have a disclaimer at the bottom of my posts. 
That driver shouldn't care about the forward voltage of whatever's hanging off the front end, as long as the input voltage is higher than the output voltage. The buck driver in the S1100 does 3.3A into a single XML and 3.3A into a single MTG2. If it's a buck driver, and it does less current into one LED than it does into another, and the input voltage is enough that it has the headroom to do the regulatin', then something's wrong with it.
I suppose I could rig up a test with three XMLs in parallel and see if the driver still does 9A into a load with half the Vf, but I don't have any reason to suspect it wouldn't.
A flaky connection (usually the socket on the DVOM gets dirty) or flaky meter would give bad current readings because of the drop thru the bad connection that wouldn't show up doing a voltage reading, there's no current flow when measuring voltage so a bad connection can still work passably well. Did you by chance try swapping the meters? I wonder if the one you used for the voltage reading would measure something different if used for the current measurement.
I have three meters and they are all reasonably close in measurements. As l mention I do not have much of an idea on how things work electronically. I know if I hooked this up to an XML it would pump 9 amps into it just like the 5 amp driver pumps more than 5 amps into a single LED. It is only when hooked up to the MTG does it give different readings on both drivers. Sorry I cant be more helpful. All my measurements are taken from the earth wire directly at the led which is a different current as well as voltage reading than at the power supply.
The LED voltage doesn't match the current readings especially for the Med and Low and frankly do not make any sense.
5.5V @ 2.6A, it should be around 350mA at that Vf. Then the second one 4.08V and 2.44A, well at 5.02-5.04 Vf you should have around 5mA to the LED. So the Low modes doesn't make much sense. Then you have 4V and 0.86A for low but before that you had 4.08V and 2.44A.
My IOS 9A driver did 9 amps into a MTG2, I never tested it with a ~3v LED. There's something wrong with either your meter, or your driver.
You simply cannot have 4.08V and 2.44A, the MT-G2 will not even light up at 4.00V
Thanks for the input guys. l dont want to lead anyone up the garden path. If I’ve screwed up which it looks like I have l will delete the post. I’ve just double checked with my original notes and that is what I have written down. Please let me know if you want it deleted. As I’ve said I dont know enough to say otherwise. Cheers guys.
I have just checked what the minimum voltage the MTG-2 led I have left will start to glow at and it was indeed 4.65 volts so my readings are up the creek. Forgetting the voltage readings does the rest look right or not.
Edit. I’ve left the post there and put a notation that the information is incorrect so there is no confusion later on.
Don't know if this will help but I do have the numbers I got taken at the tailcap, but no input voltage numbers to go with. That would be needed to truly nail down the input wattage to compare to the output wattage, but you can kinda make a rough guess and the 3-cell setup would be an input of around 70 watts, which more or less falls in line with a 9 amp output which would put it around 65 watts at the emitter.
2 18650:
low .55a
med 1.95a
hi 4.85a (this is about the same as what two of these cells run at in direct drive into the same LED, there's just not enough oomph in 2 cells to get the full output)
3 18650:
low 1.06a
med 3.05a
hi 6.57a
I rebuilt my Solarforce K3. With a copper heat sink that fits into the L2P head at 7/8” diameter, 1” long, new driver again built from a Q-Lite with 8 chips added this time for a total of 16 chips on board. New MT-G2 from Intl-Outdoor along with their Noctigon copper pcb. The emitter reflowed to the star, reflowed to the heat-sink. All one piece now. This sits down into the L2P host with the Q-Lite recessed flush into the base of the copper. The centering ring sits on top of the emitter, with a shield of heat shrink tubing cut to fit between to ensure no short. The head is then screwed down tight with reflector, no pill base at all, lens and o ring.
With 2 AW IMR 18350 cells, I’m getting 5.62A on Hi, 1.41A on Med and .07A on Low. 
I tested with Panasonic NCR18650PD and Efest IMR 18650 but neither would deliver those numbers. (4.61A and 4.95A respectively)
Ohhhhh! forgot about the Samsung 20R cells! Be back….
Edit: The Samsung INR18650 20R delivers 5.80A on Hi, 1.26 on Med, and .08 on Low Oh Yeah Baby!
As you might would expect with this large copper slug under the emitter, the heat goes straight into the top of the L2P, no real heat going into the heat as it’s not tied to the light engine. I need to work that large aluminum base that the reflector threads into and put it into the light so there will be some contact at the pcb area and consequently deliver heat to the finned head.
Tonight I put this IO driver in my 2xMT-G2 wired in parallel and powered by 2 king kongs.
http://intl-outdoor.com/xml-multicell-circuit-board-45a-ouput-55126v-p-543.html
It freezes up when left on high for a long time. I turned it off and after minute or so it worked fine again. Lumens were 3,500 when I left the house and 3,800 when I got back from a fifteen minute walk. Don’t know why. Maybe when it dropped out of regulation and went direct drive it upped the amps?
Also I’m not 100% sure which driver I am running because when I ordered it it was still 3.5 amps but was changed the same day to 4.5amps.
Obviously I would have been happier if it had not stuck on high, but overall it wasn’t too bad really. It got very hot but not blisteringly hot and I did push it pretty hard.
I guess all these IO drivers with built in protection just don’t work well with MT-G2’s
That sounds like nearly the exact same problem the 9 amp driver had. Did it step down to low and then straight back to high?