You may be able to remove the whine by swapping the switch for a new/better one or attempt cleaning the contact surfaces with a glass brush.
My severely overworked Apex switch (Omten 1.5A running at over 16Amps) also whines at times, especially when I semi press the switch just before it looses contact or when running for a while and the light gets warm. That’s with the KD 7135 v2 drivers that I’ve never heard whine otherwise.
I think if the driver is not actually the source of the whine then any less than perfect points of contact may be the cause. I would guess that’s why people see an improvement and recommend a second grounding path for the driver board.
It’s a tough one I guess you would have to tap a screw into the side of the pill. I had a J-19 that the DRY whined in and I just re-soldered and it fixed itself.
It isn’t terribly loud, but in a quiet room I can hear it and it bothers me! I guess that whine may be an inappropriate term… hum may be more like it. On the 3T6 I can understand the connection issue but on the ZY-T08 the only place possible could be the switch, everywhere else is directly and solidly connected with good solder and heavy gauge wires. I have a good Omten switches that I’ll try and swap in to see if it makes any difference. This driver must be giving a fairly square waved current that hits the switches hard.
Like posted here I would like to mod my TR J18 with a new driver and a MT-G2.
The other driver has Hi/Mid/Lo - so I need a driver for 3 LiIons with the exact same setup.
I would love to give those LED the full 3Amps.
The only driver I found with the same setup is this one: http://intl-outdoor.com/ld33-triple-xml-26a-917v-circuit-board-p-489.html “only 2.5 Amp, but that will be good because of the lower heat production.
LD-33 isn't a boost driver, so it wouldn't run the LEDs in series and if you switched them all to parallel they'd get only a tiny amount of current each (not to mention mixing 6v & 3v LEDs). That one's a buck-only driver, so input voltage has to always be higher than the output voltage.
I don't know if it'll fit in the light you're working on, but have you seen these? http://www.taskled.com/hbflex.shtml Expensive, but if you fry one of the KD 9x drivers and have to replace it, you just spent the same as one HBflex.
edit: Or do you mean a separate driver for the MTG2 on its own?
I found a V10+ 17mm driver, bought from another member, supposedly it's a version IOS used to offer but don't anymore. I don't know the 'official' specs on it, but it was listed as being 4A & 6-8.4v input and it does drive the MTG2. Mode spacing is crap like all the other V10+ parts though.
Is there no step up drivers (or whatever they are called) ? I know those portable battery charging bricks for phones use a little chip that brings the 3.7v li-on to 5v for usb charging. I came to this forum hoping for a driver for the MT-G2 that could be around 8-9A from a single 26650 or 32650. But it seems the whole 6v thing becomes an issue.
I’ve been reading all these posts and can’t seem to figure out the whole 6v requirement for the led. I measured my xml and the driver sends about 3 volts to the led. What happens if only 3v get sent to the MT-G2?
Is the MT-G2 more efficient than the xml2? Since at the same amperage’s it has double the lumen, but it is also double the volts, so equal wattages for same lumen output right??
Bare with me guys, and instead of clogging up the thread you can just message me if you would like.
The only boost driver I know of that will give more than around 1.5A with only 4.2v input, is this one: http://www.lck-led.com/40mm-side-switch-2500ma-driver-p-1103.html?cPath=135 (That is, if the listed specs are correct, I haven't used one personally)
A monster at 40mm, and only 2.5A.
Boost drivers are just by nature big because they're complicated, using big components, and with not-so-great efficiency. Run the numbers on that LD-35: 2.5A at say 6.15v, that's only 15.4 watts. Guess at efficiency of 85%. With 4v input voltage, it would need to draw nearly 4.5 amps just to get that relatively measly 2.5A output.
Even a hard driven XML2 needs two or more cells in series and a buck driver if you want it to run for more than 5 minutes before it drops out of regulation and starts dimming as the input voltage falls.
The IOS 5 amp drivers I liked so much which are no longer available had very little difference in light output from using 2, 3, or 4 batteries freshly charged. I have no idea on how efficient it works though.
Has anyone used the 7A 1 mode driver from KD or it’s 3 - mode 9A cousin? Is the difference in mode # hardware or software related(i.e. can the 7A version be made into a 3-mode driver)? Probably easier to change sense resistors on the 9A to get 7A than change the 7A to get multimode.
