LH351D, OP reflector and a non crap clip and I’d be all over this.
Great review again!
I think it’s a hard pass for me with the Osram. Like Mattlward, on a practical level I’m struggling to imagine a good use case for this, although maybe some HVAC and elevator situations it could come in handy, perhaps rough electric/construction at times…maybe a fun urban walking light where there is already ambient light around.
Just the other day I discovered something I definitely do not like about the FWAA, and that’s the thin 1mm glass. Coworker gave his an obviously pretty good drop/bash although he doesn’t recall doing it, and the bezel has a small flat spot on it, lens shattered. I’ve had mine apart and I guess didn’t realize it was so thin. The T2 from Convoy uses pretty much the same lens (unless a tenth of a millimeter matters between the two). I think I’d rather suffer the miniscule extra length and loss of transmission for a normal thicker lens. (I tell ya, too, after some dents and dings and having removed some metal in Lumintop’s lights and a couple others, I have to wonder if they’re actually using 6061…certainly doesn’t seem as tough as the typical 6061-T6 that is common in the US and it bends way too easily for that.)
If I understand correctly this rant is solely based on lack of emitter choice…
Do you have any Skilhunt/yajiamei 17mm optics to try in this? Maybe without the glass in place?
A narrow, clear with frosted center TIR and SST20w is what this light should have.
Is this 14500 only or does it take AA batteries as well?
the FWAA wont work on AA, only on 14500
in fact there is presently NO Anduril light that works on AA…
Yes! I was hoping this would be a good EDC when it was teased. But, the low cri and narrow beam will really hurt the EDC aspect of the light. I have one FWAA that gets into the rotation every now and then, but mainly it is my FW1A. Nice mix of distance and usable spill.
Again, folks, thanks for your comments and I’ll try to reply when/if needed 
I guess the “pratical use” of this flashlight is no different from many other that have been put out by several brands for a while now. It produces light and it’s main purpose will be to light the dark
I do agree, as pointed above, that a different LED & reflector combination could make it more practical, though. The FW1AA I “made” with TIR and LH351D is more useful at closer range, but it doesn’t throw as far as this one. And I guess that may be a “spot” if this flashlight: mid range for short bursts, not super close nor super far range for long periods.
I guess our hopes an expectations sometimes need to suffer adaptations according to what the marker gives to us. Eventually the SP10 version will be better than this one for your purposes
I guess that if LT comes with a 3535 board, our hopes and expectations will increase, since then we are able to mod the flashlight and give it a proper High CRI Led
I still hope for that , too
@ Light Veteran: Thank you
Hopefully a reflector that avoids the tint shifts from some LH351Ds, or a LED that doesn’t produce them.
Thanks Correlux!!
That is my next try! I will se how this looks like in certain environments during the next days. If I can I will take some photos to show it!
I can’t say about the aluminium type, but I can say that my FWAAs have felt, get some “chips” but didn’t get any issue with the lens, so far. I still prefer to have a version with the lens, than the solution the FW3A and eventually the EDC18 (???) once had, that was a “proprietary” TIR.
The FW1A, it didn’t fell so far, but if it does, I will tell you about that!
I may open my heart and conduce some more aggressive tests soon 
I guess I only have the 15mm ones. Can you please point me the 17mm ones?
I can tell, however, that the TIR from the S1R Baton I fits this flashlight. I has a similar type of beam to the S1R, eventually a bit narrower, and with some shifts in the corona. I need to explore it more.
If the TIR is tall, it won’t fit for sure, since the reflector is also short.
Nop. As jon_slider mentioned, this only takes 14500.
I am using an unprotected button top Vapcel H10 on mine.
> I guess that if LT comes with a 3535 board, our hopes and expectations will increase
is it not possible to just swap out the mcpcb?
I’m fully confident I can swap the star if needed.
I may need to file down the edges of the replacement star. Possibly file a slot or drill a hole for the alignment screw. And I might need to stack disks of copper sheet underneath to make the replacement the right thickness. But I’m confident I can do it.
I have to check if I have a small one (10mm) from KD, and see if it would fit.
I will tell later on
Other than that, given the structure/inner shape of the head/hole, I guess I would not be able to mod it.
Yup, would likely have to deal with a small hole in the reflector. I have a few copper mcpcb’s with 219b’s on them, should fit.
> would likely have to deal with a small hole in the reflector
you can do it 
the small hole is only in the centering ring… easy fix
.
Jon, do you think there would be room between the wires and the emitter for a 3535 footprint and some kind of centering ring?
If a 3535 LED was too big then would a Nichia E21A fit and be any good in 1 of these instead? Not as bright but you could get a much nicer tint and CRI.
3535 should fit just fine.
There are dozens of lights with narrower bezels that work perfectly and give very useful beams with 3535 stars (Eagletac DC25A, Sofirn SP10b, Lumintop Tool AA, etc.).
The problem isn’t the fit… rather it is Lumintop’s choice to go with a 3030 star that fits Oslon White 1 emitters and nothing else.
I’m sure an E21A would fit and work fine… but you would need to do the following:
- Find an appropriate star that fits an E21A and then mod the star to fit inside the light.
- E21A can’t tolerate high currents. You may need to mod the driver or firmware to limit output.
What’s the MCPCB size?
I do have E21A’s… the star will be the issue. I think I could fit one in the odd cavity and would have to clear mask and then solder in a place that is not a solder tab. But, the output would be disappointing for an EDC. Gonna have to think on it a bit. Not having the light in hand, I am not sure what the opening in the base of the reflector looks like. May just have to come up with one to try and frankenlight it. I do love the form factor of the FWAA that I have, but it is just to much flood for some applications. Charging every other day to save pocket space is not an issue.
Eurekatronix/Clemence has a 10mm MCPCB for E21A and E17A , very high perf dielectric and can do 4A :
Still going to need a regulated driver, I just ordered boards for a FWAA buck driver and I was looking forward to this FW1AA but the weird MCPCB/shelf design is just very disappointing.
From the photo, the stock star doesn’t look very deep.
Another option might be to use an ordinary 16mm star and just have it sitting on the aluminum rim above the cavity for the stock star.
- In the empty cavity for the stock star, place either the stock star with nothing on it, or some copper sheet cut into disks. All liberally covered with thermal grease to fill any gaps.
- If needed, drill fresh holes or file the existing holes wider for the driver wires.
- If this method is used, the bezel won’t screw down all the way. Insert an o-ring or other spacer into the gap.