Putting together my first flashlight: S6 with Luxeon


I’m looking for some advice on building myself a flashlight for the first time. I have a few Sofirn, Wurkkos and Convoy lights, but for some time wanted to put together one of my own.

This is my very first project, and searching in the forum and internet in general, I found a lot of advanced information, a few info for beginners, and a huge in-between gap that I hadn’t figure out yet, so I’m creating this post asking for help on what else I could need to put together what I decided to be my first project, along with any useful tips on the process and from there I’ll research and learn further.

I’m looking into putting together a Convoy S6 host with a Luxeon V2 LED. I was planning on getting those:

For the LED: Lumileds LUXEON V2 White 6500K LED Emitter With 16mm DTP Copper MCPCB

For the host: Convoy S6 flashlight host ,include 1OP reflector,1pill,1head O ring,1glass,1*spring,etc
[link removed due to forum limitation on number of links per post being a beginner account, but searching on aliexpress for “S6 Host” should bring it up]

For the Driver: 17mm 7135*8 ,output 3040mA,12groups (new program code),Built-in temperature control

Would those work well together? Any recommendations on a different driver or even maybe host? The LED is the only component I’m truly set on.

Thanks in advance for any help!

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Maybe 17mm 5A 12 groups driver from Convoy instead for bit more maximum output?

Also some thermal compound under the 16mm mcpcb.

Maybe it’s worth asking is the tail switch assembly with the better spring also. Especially if using that 5A driver.

On the LED listing description, it says the LED has a 2.4A max current, wouldn’t a 5A driver fry it?

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No, 5A should be fine.

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I’m unfamiliar with the s6 but I’d suggest getting some TIRs. They’re a cheap and easy way to achieve different beam profiles. Maybe someone can chime in with which ones fit that host (might be the 20mm ones). If you request it in your order you may be able to get a variety in a multi-pack.

The s6 has the deep reflector so tir’s may not be drop in compatible.

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The Convoy 5A driver typically outputs around 5.42A.

In the post you linked, Djozz recommended 4A.

I believe the S6 host only comes with a 5050 gasket.
You’ll need a 3535 Gasket for the LED you chose.

Link to 3535 Gasket:

When soldering the leads onto the MCPCB, I highly recommend putting a thermal insulator between the MCPCB and the Pill.
I typically use a piece of popsicle stick:

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The S2/S2+/S6/S8 hosts are very similar in design but look different aesthetically.
The S2/S6 and S8 have a deeper reflector and should throw a little further than the S2+.

The S2+ comes in many more colors/materials, some of which include and pocket clip(Silver, Tan and MAO). Most S2+ come with a metal button in the tail. Gray/Black/Copper/MAO and Titanium come with a rubber button.

One thing I need to mention is if you choose a SMO(Smooth) Reflector for the S2/S6 or S8 you will probably need to modify(Sand Down) the 3535 Gasket to get a good beam profile.

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When soldering the leads onto the MCPCB, I highly recommend putting a thermal insulator between the MCPCB and the Pill.
I typically use a piece of popsicle stick:


No reason. With a proper hot iron it shouldn’t take but a quick second. If you have to hold it on there for longer than that. Your iron is not up to snuff.

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Good question, I should have explained why.

If there’s a thermal insulator between the MCPCB and Pill, you’re only heating the MCPCB instead of the entire pill.

The Pill is basically a large heatsink.

If the MCPCB is in direct contact with the pill, the pill will soak up the heat from the iron making it difficult to get good solder flow.

Note: This is only for purposes of soldering the leads onto the MCPCB.
After the leads are soldered, you remove the insulator and apply Thermal paste.
The thermal paste helps transfer the heat away from the LED faster.

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Nope. Still no reason to do this. Your properly operating iron will heat that joint much faster than the pill absorbs the heat. It’s an unneeded step.

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You definitely need more heat if you have to do this — When I build triple and the MCPCB is bonded to the solid copper pill — I use a chisel tip turned all the way up – In and Out in a matter of seconds — As long as everything is pre-tinned

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What temp do you put your soldering iron at? I usually use 700F which seems to be good, but maybe I should go higher?

I’ve used the popsicle stick/toothpick method in the past when I’m not able to move the MCPCB far enough away to solder the leads, like in a C8.

The type of soldering tip also makes a big difference. The bigger the better. I try to use the biggest tip that I have room for.

And it’s important to keep the soldering tip clean and use flux.

I use cheap 40watt irons. No clue on the temp. I been meaning to buy a proper soldering station. I bought a hot air station. Really don’t use it much. I take the tip off and use it to warm my hands in the barn on cold days.

I usually use something like that to hold down the leads. Even if the pill is out and it’s on my desk I still use a toothpick. If not I just end up burning my fingers. And yes, I like the biggest tip I can fit in there. I use one of those brass tip cleaners, you just jab the iron in there a few time and it cleans it up real nice. They are cheap too. I can’t recommend using flux enough. As with lots of things prep is usually more important than the job itself. Just like painting a car or anything really. If the prep isn’t don’t right you are probably gonna have problems.

I haven’t sat down at my desk and worked on anything for a while now. I have a box of stuff that needs some kind of work. Just can’t find the energy to do it. The older I get the worse my eyes get and I end up just pissing myself off. :grinning:

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Ohhh. I have a box of lights I never use anymore. Sounds like giveaway time!

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You have my full attention sir, both here and on the main post you created for it. I’d pay you a visit to help you unload some! :grin:

funnily enough everything looks reasonable to me EXCEPT for the LED! The Luxeon V2 has terrible tint shift and CRI, and mediocre output compared to other 3535 LEDs–even a 5000K old gen XPL HI could outdo it in all departments, tint, output, and CRI. What was your reasons for choosing the Luxeon V2?

It will probably be my only flashlight from my (little as of now) collection with an LED from this manufacturer. I already have from all other major manufacturers, and wanted to make a project of this one.

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