I ordered a Q8 Anduril and received the Narsil version.
The Sofirnlight rep. Who replied to me email sent me a link to this thread rather than offer any sort of fix or compensation…
Would it be difficult to reflash the firmware to the desired OS?
Thanks.
Did they send you a BLF Q8 with xpl or a Sofirn Q8 with xpl-hi?
This is a relatively easy light to flash.
It’s a BLF Q8 with flats on th sides of the body. It took about two months to arrive and I can’t remember the emitter.
The BLF version is supposed to be NarsilM.
The Sofirn version has Anduril.
Did you order the right one?
Jason - this is the one he probably ordered: https://sofirnlight.com/blf-q8-anduril-flashlight-alone-or-kit1-or-kit2-p0028.html
Weird, but says BLF Q8 Anduril labeled just under the SS bezel. Right now, same price as the original group buy best price.
If this is the order page he used, boy, classic bait&switch, or classic "let's dump old inventory first because the new listing will get us a bunch of new orders", or "which box is which? I dunno, just send it!"
Oh yeah, I do remember something about the original BLF Q8 being made available with Anduril. I found the announcement here from Feb 17, 2020. This is only one month ago. lmorrison17 might be thinking two months because it feels like that. I dunno. Anyway, it does look like it exists, I was wrong before.
Whereabouts are you, lmorrison? Might be someone local-ish that can help flash it without you needing to buy the parts.
I am in MD. Right in my order confirmation and shipping emails it clearly says Anduril. Yes the date was 2/21 and yes it felt like 2 months.
If its only an 8 pin chip I can flash it if the hex is in the repository. Just a couple weeks ago I did my first successful flash.
Assuming I just have disassemble far enough to access the chip?
WHat really burns my ass is just getting back into the hobby after 7-8 yr hiatus I have bought 3 lights, a host and few various bits and bobs all they offered in compensation for the bait and switch was a link to this thread. 
if you’ve got the SOIC clip, then yeah, the firmware is available here:
http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril.2020-03-18.blf-q8.hex
Thank you so much , that sure beat sifting through all that stuff to find the right one. I will scan the thread and look up dis-assembly information tomorrow evening. Maybe do a quad bypass too.
All good! From memory, it’s just two screws to get at the MCU.
It depends on how long the led wires are. If long enough, you can tilt the driver for clip access. If too short, then you have to remove the screw for the reflector, move reflector and unsolder the wires from the mcpcb.
I can’t remember if the newer models use a single screw or double screw. Here are pics of the reflector back side.
Ah yes, good point. I tend to forget that!
This is my newly modded Q8. Xhp50.2’s… I ran this next to my buddies stock q8. His got hot quick… mine stayed relatively cool considering. It’s really bright… will burn ur hand in a few seconds. This is my first time posting picture. I’ll try and get some beam shots later.
oweban
Successfully flashed! 
Thank you again so much . For the disassembly instructions (my wires were long enough that I only had to flip the board to the side) and especially for the link to the hex. I went and looked in there and there are versions going way back, I surely would have stopped at the first Q8 I saw.
All good! TK has done some incredible work with thermal regulation in the latest release.
Gofastdodge, I found the rest of the screws. If you PM me your mailing address I’ll send you some.
It’s nice to know, during these trying times that people can still be generous. It’s not hard to be kind to one another. Let’s all do our part to help our friends and neighbors.
I have Q8 with the stock Sofirn drive I’ve modded to run XHP50.2’s. I did a full tail cap bypass by running 18awg from the springs through to the screw terminals, replaced the 4 screws with copper ones, and used a copper bolt to hold the reflector in. Heat and output from the LEDs seem to be fine.
However the MOSFET on the driver itself is getting alarmingly hot. Even a few seconds at full turbo with VTC5s leaves the driver battery contact ring scorchingly hot. I’ve added some silicone to create a more direct thermal path from the MOSFET to the shell of the light, and this seems to have helped a little.
What I’d like to know is how much heat should be concerning here. Is this something where I’m just pushing the components too far or is the MOSFET ok with the heat? I do have some SIR404DP’s on order and planned to swap one in, but I’m not sure if the XHP50.2’s are just too much for any sort of sustained output at full turbo.
I don't know the amp draw offhand of a XHP50.2, but it's high. The stock FET is not so good, so yes a SIR404DP would be better. Actually any of those FET's from a driver made in China is probably a fake, but most of the fakes actually perform fairly well.
Not sure how much that effects the brass contact ring, however. I'd be sure the brass ring is clean and properly treated. I'd sand it smooth, maybe apply thin amt of conductive protective grease, like NO-OX-ID.
The better FET's, are there are a few, should stay cool, and are rated up to 60-100 amps or so.
I've been using these more recently: BSC009NE2LS5ATMA1, by Infineon, https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/196/Infineon-BSC009NE2LS5-DS-v02_00-EN-1731220.pdf. Actually it's been a couple years I've been using these. There may be better ones now?