Actually no, think of it as three times the chance of success, provided even if two out of three drivers fail, they do so benignly (not short circuit).
Edit: assuming that you are using the torch for a practical purpose, and are relying on it working.
It would take a FMECA to figure this out properly.
Even on 1/3, you still have 4K lumens potential.Which should be more than enough for any conceivable real world use-case.
Which aircraft would you prefer to fly on, over water ? One with three engines, or a twin-jet, or just one engine ? I like to see four, but I’m old-fashioned. And I always have a backup torch in my pocket.
Well before the Q8 became available for ordering I ordered a couple of quick release tripod screws here and though the listing stated aluminum I received black chrome plated steel. A bit disappointed until I filed the screw end down on one and installed it.
I would like to ‘try’ removing the side switch thingy … in the hopes that they might send a new switchboard someday that I could somehow install and get my locator beam working again. I am TOTALLY CLUELESS at this sort of thing however. Does the boot come off first or not? I see (4) sort of clover things around the boot. Is that what you turn? And then does that outside ring unscrew? Is it all one piece. Sure would be nice to see one before I attempt anything. And then how long are the wires on the board? Long enough to slide the board out and desolder 3 wires and then resolver the new ones on? Is that an easy solder job? Piece of cake for you guys - monumental task here. I removed a reflector from a light one time and thought I had conquered a mountain.
2. Button is embeded in bezel
3. Switch board is laying inside hole, may need a hook such as dental tool to pop it out.
4. Wires should be long enough to desolder. Although, on mine, the driver board wiring was twisted a couple times, so you may have to remove 2 screws and driver to untwist.
They are not needle nose pliers. I find it easier to use “snap” ring pliers” since the jaws (points) open as you squeeze the handles, allowing you to keep expansion pressure while you turn. They are handy for other flashlight keeper ring removal.
Hi Pat. I hear what your saying and understand what you mean. What I suggest below may or may not help, I hope it does in some small way help yourself and others in a similar situation.
The first big challenge work gave me had me panicking as I did not have a clue how to do the job at hand. It took me awhile to learn how to achieve results I thought impossible but after a period of time did learn that negative thinking achieves nothing.
I learnt that in the big picture was a starting point. That starting point led onto the next step and so on until the job was completed.
What I’m trying to say is dont look at the big picture as a whole, break that big picture down to a starting point. That starting point will lead to the next step and so on.
Etex has pretty much explained what I do to stop panic attacks in the manner I have just mentioned. Broken the big picture down into a starting point and then onto the next steps. Once the first step is completed move onto the next.
In my thread on building a light in this years Old Lumens comp I have no idea on how to move onto the next part of the build until I have finished the step I’m doing at the time. One thing leads to another and finally I will have a working light. Sure not all things work out the first time but in the end a result is almost always assured.
Thank you all for this thread and all the nice tips to make the Q8 better. :+1:
My two lights are still back ordered but i already have some 200 color leds (no less then 100 PINK ones) and some brass screws on the way… I can certainly handle swapping the screws but i fear soldering those tiny leds is beyond my skills.
One question. Maybe i am blind or there is really no option to set the threshold temperatur if you use temp stepdown.
I thought there would be an option like in the lucidrv2 (there you can set the threshold temperatur in 5° steps) or a option like in the guppydrv Universal Firmware (there you let the light run on turbo till its get to the temp you do not want to reach and there you stop and save it as your new threshold temperatur).
I prefer the guppydrv option because you can feel when it gets to hot. For the lucidrv2 option you have to know how hot the atmel chip gets when the body reaches a specific temp. More testing and trying necessary.
@bwl123
I asked BanL (Kaidomain) if he would be interested in selling high quality 55×3mm double side AR coated glass lens but got no answere. Maybe he will be interested if some more people get on board (KD (kaidomain): Deals and new products thread).
I tested a coated lens in my Q8 and only gained little more lumens. Tint lost a bit of quality. In my SRK mod there was a bigger gain with this lens. So I guess the stock lens of Q8 is already pretty good.
Btw my SRK clones have very thick (white) o-rings compared to Q8, so they probably fit the Q8 with a thinner lens.
Point 3 in ramping click 2 times for thermal, light will go to turbo, if lnger than 5 seconds in that state and you end it the new temperature will be saved
It is described in text above the ramping settings table
Anyone familiar with designing pcbs want to make a swich pcb and upload to oshpark?
Was gonna swap leds in the switch today but Thorfire have forced the pcb into place and delaminated the edge of it. I am afraid that if i pry it out of there it will break so i will leave it alone untill i have a replacement ready.
