I did some work on my lantern-conversion of proto3 of the Q8 (the lantern conversion itself I posted in the WDYMT thread).
-swapped leds to 219C sm273 R9050 (cosy!).
-swapped the original proto-driver back in. (it had temporarily a Lexel-driver for testing)
-swapped in a tailboard from a production Q8, because the low-resistance phosfor-bronze springs that I modded the proto-board with were undesirable for the low-voltage 219C’s.
-used 8cm long 20AWG ledwires to create even more resistance.
Now the current is down to 17A on 30Q’s, that is 4.25A per led which is perfect for a 219C. The output has suffered tremendously from this mod of course, without the lantern-attachment I measured 2800 lumen at 30 seconds. But those lumens are in perfect lantern tint&CRI
I believe the alum would probably eventually remove all the ano but it would take many many days, and probably do other damage in the meantime. By the time I could remove the screw from mine it had basically removed the thinnest ano’ed bits, the high points of the knurling and right on the sharp edges.
If considering completely stripping the anodising, be aware that removing it from the threads will remove lockout capability and the wear benefits of the hard finish, so be sure to lube them thoroughly, if you do strip it from them. If stripping intentionally, maybe consider masking them off first. Even just one side still anodised will be much better than neither.
Also maybe an idea to first try diluting the NaOH solution to try to slow the process, rather than start with a concentrated solution. It will carry on eating into the Ally, once it has got through the anodising. Even neat drain cleaner (check ingredients, some is H2SO4 based) is very strong stuff.
The stripped result does look nice, may be in the future of one of mine …
I use the front half sphere from a LED light for mains, on of the replacements for normal light bulbs. I had a defective one here (was 11W, 800lm, E27).
That doesn’t get hot at all.
Hello, how does the switch blink when the batteries run low at 3V?
What I’ve written down:
Low Voltage Protection (LVP) @3V
Main LED: 3x blinks as indication
Indicator LED: blinks every 8 sec
What my Q8 does:
Main LED blinks three times.
The indicator LED goes on, than off and stays on.
And it goes off with the next brightness change: 3x blinks of the main LED, switch LED off.
Edit:
Weird next try:
1th stepdown
Main: 3x blinks
Switch: 1x blink, ON
immediately after this comes the
2th stepdown
Main: 3x blinks
Switch: 1x blink, ON
Manual off and ramp to max
1th stepdown
Main: 3x blinks
Switch: 1x blink, OFF
@Wieselflinkpro
I am not 100% sure but i think he got the leds from Clemens. He sold here on BLF many Nichia leds. Some that you will rarely find in most of the shops. I ordered some leds from him too. He also is selling leds at his shop (https://www.virence.com/shop).
lubricant is not the best to protect the threads when Stripping the anodisation, the NaOH can crawl under it and the bubbles remove it
you can always use hot wax to seal the parts you dont want to strip from anodisation,
after you removed anodisation just heat the tube and wax melts
bee wax is also good instead of normal lubricant
Not suggesting lube as mask. Lube as lube. On bare ally threads.
For mask, I use “copydex” latex rubber emulsion. Identical to expensive stuff specifically designed for similar jobs. Peels off easily. Other things, almost anything, will work. Nail varnish for example (remove with nail varnish remover or acetone)
The switch LED blinks 3 times, as does the main LED, then drops the main LEDs output.
In addition, while it's in this low battery state (under 3.0V), every 8 seconds the switch LED alone should blink twice. So, these two events may interact and cause some confusion, depending on the battery state and the output level the user has set. The main purpose of the 8 second frequency is to show it when the light is turned OFF by the user and the cells are reading below 3.0V.
When the user turns off the main LED, the MCU is put into a deep sleep, low drain state after 5 seconds. But when the voltage is reading below 3.0V, it delays 6 minutes in order for the 2 switch LED blinks that happen every 8 seconds can be seen. It's a way of telling/reminding the user - Hah! There's a low voltage condition - check/replace your batteries.
Just fyi, every time LVP drops output, the voltage recovers partially, so if it recovers back over 3.0V and the draw is low, it might take a little while before the next drop, or the next drop could happen fairly quickly -- all depends on the batteries, their level, and the level of amps/output.
I don't understand that either - think the 2 blink feature to show it's running on the FET is kicking in, and confusing the state, but not sure.
I didn't notice this behavior before when I tested, and none of the other prototype testers reported it either. Hopefully tonight I can get a chance to look at it.
Can anybody tell me the diameter of the tailboard? I’d like to cut one from copper before my Q8 is here.
And the distance from edge to via in the center of the springs would be great.
I will also do some tests with homemade copper screws. I have some 20mm2 mains wire lying around that would give a good starting rod.
It will be interesting so see how much torque they can take before they break.