Metric is so nice to work with.
That’s dead easy, if your car takes e.g. 50 litres (our pumps are in litres) to do 500 miles (or the divide by 10 equivalent), it’s doing 45.5 mpg, which is about right for a family car, hereabouts.
Got my Q8 today, already modified the battery tube, took like 20 seconds 
It’s the second batch wave, and everything looks to be right!
Switch LED’s perfectly balanced! Will check out the head this weekend, but everything looks great!
Very nice!! Great job you guy’s!! :+1:
Any detailed info you can provide would be great! Interested in the springs - should now have a wire drop in a PCB thru hole, but was hoping they'd be stiffer.
Negative, springs still break contact with hand thump……
. Wow, guess they decided against it. Think it was gonna hold them up a bit, not sure. They sent us pics and everything though.
I gave them a hard time - wanted better qual springs. should have said stiffer as well.
Hmmm, mine came in today also second batch. Just tried bumping it on my hand and NO contact break! I’m using GA’s in mine. Maybe it’s a battery thing :question: or they used up the springs from first batch before using the new ones…
A thick magnet at the bottom of each cell should make it a bit better at handling axial bumps? Not great for current flow though…
You could saw a 2-3mm copper sheet and solder blob it on battery side
If i was to solder something i’d rather swap the springs for stiffer ones.
Anyone sourced ‘better’ springs for the task?
Difference looks to be the depth of the PCB as compared to the other SRK’s or M6 I’m looking at, so the distance could be shortened up by machining the tail end deeper or shorten the battery tube and cut the threads back as much to keep thread engagement the same?
I’m tried MJ1’s 25R’s and 30Q’s all button tops and really they are close to the same length and in my sample, they broke contact, but the Protected Orbtronics didn’t at 69mm length.
Really to bad that Hank and Richard are not selling the A Spring anymore. If i could get hands on them i would buy a bigger lot of them! They were perfect for modding a high Amp light!
Funny everyone here uses AWG without problem. The U.S isn't in the situation for being the farthest behind the times, they're in it for being one of the biggest and earliest movers before standards were set and now they're bogged in it. Being big also means less need to change though as their market size is self-sustaining. It's really not a problem in most contexts. Industry is fine (they have compatibility issues but not calculation issues mostly, fasteners being a perfect example, that's fastener standard problem, not a measurement system problem), carpenters are fine, and science and tech are fine. The problem only comes at the engineering level in between. CAD doesn't matter, it will convert. It's just when absurd stuff like calculating flight trajectories in mph crashes something into mars that it's aggravating. Obviously nobody should be calculating flight trajectories in miles, and this seems to be a particularly NASA kind of problem.
A hand bump is not the proper test for power breaks - too much attenuation.
I really don’t understand this messing around with stiffer springs, additional copper sheets, pennies at al. In my view the best solution is still an additional buffer condensator in parallel to C2 - easier to apply, cheap and more reliable.
Hey Flashy Mike,
I would love to the buffer condensateor, but I have not got a clue how to do it-I can’t even see anything that I could identify as C2 on the pictures. It could be I am just way behind every one else, but possibly not-it is really easy to do the spring swap for me. If you or anyone else could perhaps identify what or where C2 is, and a link to buy the parts it would really be helpful but I know that is a lot to ask of anyone. That’s just my 2 cents on why I looked to spring swap as the “easiest” because it is within my realm of experience. I hope others will also chime in as to why that are looking at spring swap over C2 mod….
The position of C2 is printed on the board, next to the Attiny 85. When I find the time I will do more tests to figure out if we can use ever smaller caps than the 100 uF I tested before.
As long as there is no battery disconnection in my normal use of the flashlight, I will not do the bump test in case it will crack something there inside. I tried to shake it a little bit and no problem appeared. I would advise against bumping test, if it seems to work fine in your daily use. Alright, I would then react if it was a problem with normal use, luckily it mostly seems to be no problem. Eventually I would had tried longer batteries.
It’s worth noting that the “bump test” as it has been dubbed can cut the outer protective wrappers on your 18650s in the Q8 so be wary.
I couldn’t agree more. Addresses the root cause of the problem.
Unfortunately it seems my Q8 only just departed Shenzen, so I’ll be waiting for a while longer before I get my hands on it to try your mod. myself.
Order Submitted
Sep/12/2017 03:30:08
2017-09-30 11:38:51
Location：Flyt Express’s sorting centre, Guangzhou
Status：Item received
…
Status：Leaving The Shenzhen Operations Center.
2017-10-10 00:31:00
Location：null
I don’t suppose you, or someone else, could measure the MCU current when you have a moment ? I’d like to calculate holdup time vs. capacitance with a bit more confidence than my SWAG estimate. Suggested method:
Disconnect the main LEDs and measure the current taken by the driver when turned on, operating in a mode where the FET is being driven with PWM. If necessary use a small LED with high series resistor instead of the main LEDs, as an indicator, so you can see what mode it is in.
How exactly does this happen? What cuts the wrapper?