my xintd c8 v4 doesnt have any problems using moon mode after being in high for a long time
Now, mine is also flickering on high as well as low. It’s one of my XML2 that shuts down early at low voltage DD (flickers just before it dies). It’s not an even, PWM type of flicker but more erratic like a dirty contact. The switch is a hair trigger when changing modes so maybe that’s it. It’s barely noticeable so I’ll live with it for now and see what happens.
Texaspyro wrote
What, millions weren’t spent developing this chip just so that we could come up with new ways to break it?
millions of zimbabwe dollars perhaps
You guys are not alone.
I did a T20 mod last week and two Qlite drivers have been swapped for this light and I had the exact same problem as yours. Works well initially, and then after certain period of time the light starts to flicker in all modes.
At first I thought it was my soldering problem, so I swapped it into second Qlite driver, and the problem persisted after two days of normal functioning. So far I have 4 Qlite drivers with flickering problem in my T20, T08 and C8 mod. I even created a thread asking for help on my flickering issue, and comfychair adviced me to check if anything bypass the driver. I did, I reassemble everything carefully and it works like normal for two days before it happen again. I understand comfy’s point but I just feel weird with the driver. Last night I swapped my T20 driver again into its stock driver and it works fine now. But I still need few more days for observation.
Coincidentally all of my mods have stacking of 7135, but I did solder them well.
Not trying to blame Qlite directly but I starting to feel strange with it, not having proof nor test though. I will try to order some ‘normal’ Nanjg 105C from FT in the future for more experiments.
The hardware's identical among all these 105C-based drivers, only difference is the firmware. I'd be amazed if the issue were anything other than something to do with the added 7135s.
My XinTD v4 moonlight mode works well unless it has been run on high for an extended period of time… I ran it for 8 minutes once then moonlight wouldn’t come back on until the light cooled back down. No flickering problems yet but I’ve only had it for about a month.
I have been running an MT-G2 (6V) with Qlite RevA 12x7135 (zener-resistor modification :D), 2x18650PDs. The MT-G2 is in a Dereelight DBSv3 host, which is surely warming up quickly with full power. If the host is warm (I mean very hot) the moonlight mode does not lit up. I assume it is because of the Vf change as a function of temperature. See Cree MT-G2 spec, temperature coefficient of voltage –4mV/C, so difference in Vf between 25C and 125C is 0.4V, and could cause these problems?
If you can consistently get it to stop working in moonlight mode, can you do a little test for me? Get it hot, confirm moonlight isn't working, then swap in fresh cells and see if it works again while still hot. If so swap the first set of cells back in and see if it goes back to not working again.
Comfy, sure, I did a series of tests (over 10) and the moonlight mode non-workability is repetable.
So, how I did the test:
2 sets of fresh (4,20V 2x18650PDs), the other set I used to heat up the flashlight and the other to quickly test if the moonlight mode is working (and also tried the nonfresh batteries similarly to test whether moonlight mode is working after a while to see whether there is a difference) and measured time to get the moonlight mode working again.
The body gets over 50C (peak temperature) in 1-2mins depending on the starting temperature and it takes 30seconds to get the moonlight mode working again (amazingly accurately +–5secs) and I did not notice difference whether there were fresh swapped batteries or the used ones.
After the series of tests the battery voltages were 2x 4,11V and 2x 3,75V.
Comfy, I did another test to more precisely test the fresh and non-fresh batteries 18650PDs changing back and forth,
1. The voltages 2x 3,78V and 2x 4,19 (test start)
2. Running high mode (~4,5amps with the non-fresh batteries) 4minutes, the body peak temperature 55C,
3. Changed fresh batteries, it takes again about 30sec to get the moonlight mode working
4. Changed the non-fresh batteries back and moonlight mode is working
After the test the battery voltages 2x 3,67V and 2x 4,17V
Thoughts?
Sorry for late report,
I will simply give up on qlite. But I will not say that IO is guilty for this, it is probably mine mistake? Maybe I overheated or shorted something? Or drop of solder bulb on wrong place? Who will know?
I have put driver out and attached in on my XM-L2 test emitter on aluminum heatsink(it has soldered wires with aligator clamps which I attach to driver - wire, and I used 18650 battery holder with- wire touching driver pos spring&negative side of the driver) , and then modes start work again but flickering on xml2 also. First one also stays with single flickering mode on this test.
It is easier to order new drivers than to mess with this one. I don’t have nerves(knowledge) for error finding, and I really don’t like flickering.
I only know that I will use this test above before each driver installing. I was obviously to confident in this driver and my skills.
Could the processor be bypassed to see where the problem is (for high mode)?
Hi, I have done the almost same test. I pulled out the pill and try to connect battery power on the driver directly and it works but flicker in all modes.
I have two questions though,
- Did you dedome your XM-L2?
- Did you add extra 7135 on it?
Thanks for your feedback.
Comfy or others, any further thoughts on this? What causes this moonlight mode non-workability problem? (see also posts #69 and #70) If I just warm the host up to 45C (body peak) the moonlight mode starts to work again in some seconds 
The fresh battery changing should help, whether in higher pwm peaks or other, but does not seem to have an effect.
BTW, I think this is a very nice somewhat pocketable ~2500 lumens combination especially with 2x18500 set-up 8) Special thanks to Comfy(?) for the zener-resistor modification tip.
Bibihang,
My test xm-l2 is not de-domed and I did not add any extra 7135’s.
Lightme,
I hardly know to bypass spring so I am not sure how to bypass processor or to do any other serious inspection of this.
I don’t have knowledge for this.
Thanks for the information. Well I have ONLY one light which has XM-L2 without dedomed and stock Qlite without additional 7135 and it works fine. All the others light with problem are all with dedomed LED and stacked with few 7135.
Hmm… something to do with dedome or 7135 stacking?
Maybe overheating issue during soldering (human mistake or maybe even at factory?).
Probably some kind of machine solder wires and 7135 chips on driver by default? Because if workers solder that there is always place for some mistake.
For last drivers(no name 8×7135) I ordered from aliexpress they all seems hand soldered. But maybe I am wrong?
And not single fail so far(single mode only).
This is the first I've heard of any problems with 105C/Qlite drivers. What about different manufacturers of the 7135s? The 105C I have here from FT has "7135 35A" marked on them. The extra 7135s I got from FT have what looks like an igloo symbol followed by "L7315 1246".
Or are you guys melting them when soldering the other one(s) on?
Hmm, could be. But the most recent batch of Qlite I am getting I did solder them really well. I wish I could post a picture of my soldering job but my smartphone was dead yesterday, no chance to take any picture now. 
Again whether or not it is my skill problem or is it really the factory problem that’s the thing that I am unsure of, so I don’t mean to bash IOS or the Qlite manufacturer. I am asking here just to see if anyone else has the same problem with mine.