Wow - with XM-L2's, all I've seen is warmer tints have darker yellow phosphor, so the Rayus is darker yellow, but the beam is green. Might just be a poor tint but still warm? That UV pic though is interesting - very different. Wonder if it's a fake Nichia.
I’ll try that. I over thought it and tried removing the PCB, and after I did that the pill wouldn’t turn.
Edit: My pill must be glued in because it’s bending my multimeter leads.
I wouldn't say it's green, I just left it on auto white balance. It's also not a fake Nichia, definitely a 219, just a different type.
I view the warmer XM-L2 LEDs as having a more orange look than yellow for cool white.
Left to right:
EagleTac MX25L3C Nichia 219A, Thrunite TN35 MT-G2, SWM T45C XM-L2 CW, SWM D40A XM-L2 NW
I recommend texaspyro as someone who has a good knowledge base (and equipment) to judge what tint/CRI he thinks they are. I would also be willing to look at one, all my personal lights except my big throwers have HCRI emitters and I have several lights built with Nichia’s, both 119’s and 219A’s and B’s. Only thing is I have no proper camera equipment, while I could share my opinion I wouldn’t be able to provide the quality of beamshot comparison’s other’s can.
In other news, what’s that RGB triple MCPCB? DTP?
That's just a triple Nichia219 aluminum board from Cutter, not DTP.
Hmm, maybe something stronger? I didn't even know multimeter leads bend that easily.
Thanks for the quick reply, I don’t ever browse cutters catalog so I’d never seen it.
While cri needs to be judged in person it is pretty clear those are not sw45. I’m sure you’d like a couple others to lend their eyes for comparison just to give it extra strength.
Now I am going to be UVing all my leds. lol Great idea and looks kinda cool too.
UV does really highlight tint differences. With these two nichia’s you can already see the phosphor on one is too yellow even without UV.
Going to discount your stock on the rayus c01, Calvin? 
Still discussing with Rayus what to do, I can't break MAP without permission.
I can measure color temp rather accurately, but can’t do true CRI measurements. PM sent…
I have a Minimag triple w/high CRI Nichias I purchased from you and I’m close by.
Thanks for the pictures Calvin. Would I be correct in inferring that some emitters glow under a UV light, while others do not? If you don’t mind me asking, what UV wavelength did you use to test this?
another LED “mistake” from rayus. this is supposed to be XM-L2
I have a high L10 with Nichia 219 and a modded flashlight with the 91 CRI XM-L2 that you sell that I can compare against. I don't know if I'll see the differences, but I can look and take more pictures to post.
I'm not interested in keeping the flashlight, so you could send me the shipping label from me to the next person? I have plenty of bubble mailer envelopes.
As mentioned in the review thread for the PT10, samples sent contained XM-L, retail inventory I have show XM-L2.
It seems that all LEDs I've tested glow under UV, some more than others. Nitecore CU6, advertised as 365nm.
Turns out Rayus was able to contact a manager from their LED supplier and confirmed that the Nichia is in fact 5000K and 83 CRI
Late to the game, here is a pic of the Nichia NCSW119 vs NVSL119 but would be identical to its 219 brother from top view. You can see the “C” has a smaller die than the “V”
Other things to note:
“C” Vf (L: 3.0-3.4V, M: 3.4-3.8V) and max current is spec’d at 700mA
“V” Vf (L: 2.7-3.1V, M: 3.1-3.5V) and max current is spec’d at 1500mA