Recipe for a small thrower

[djozz]

@luminarium iaculator

I have TES 1335 light meter and it is pretty expensive. Measures very correct. Some of my friends ordered Fandyfires and zoomies(long time ago) from OSTS shop and my meter had similar readings as Saablusters so I can assume my readings are real. Nanjg 105C single mode 3A(yes multimeter shows similar tail readings - sometimes even more than 3A), noctigon XP-G2(cool white- de domed) I saw that you re-flowed whole star on pill while I used artic alumina. But I really doubt there should be any difference with this methods. There are several factors that could influance on that: - Maybe better selected emitters also has some affect and you got better one? (Vinz has hand selected emitters, and he claims that there is visible difference on light output from emitter to emitter but I really don’t know how to pick right one if his theory is correct? If it is correct I would not want to throw the one with poor performance either) - The way emitter is re-flowed on noctigon star? Maybe in-outdors guys owerflowed it on my noctigon? - lenses lottery. Maybe you got better one.

My reflows are not much above solder melt temperature, that is ok, but I guess intl-outdoor uses a refow oven that does the reflow more careful than I do. If I remember well the emitter I used was from intl-outdoor as well and originally came already reflowed on a 16mm board.

I also think there should not be a large difference in soldering the board onto the pill compared to using heat sink paste.

Different emitters should not differ by as much as 15%, but there is some debate on varying output results from dedome to dedome.

I am almost tempted to send you my flashlight for a direct comparison, or just the pill and lens. But it would be a somewhat expensive way to solve the mystery I guess :-)

[Bean_darach]

Thanks everybody for the feedback.

I have ordered both a Jacob A60 and a SmallSun ZY-C10-S (both unmodded), and I will see how I get on with them.