So cool. Thank you for continuing to share your progress. Must be wonderful when you first realize that... This works! Woot! :-)
Any plans to develope a board for this or will it just use existing platforms.
Well, the SiR424DP are hard/expensive to get outside US, they are not on eBay but there are some other ones on eBay, although not as low Vgs I think.
You guys can get them on digikey etc. not that expensive.
Yes a board would be nice, can be done on OSH Park etc.
But right now for the 5 pieces I can make it is cheapest to just modify the stock Nanj105c. Will be doing a second one today.
It would give you a lot of space to have a custom board, just put the mosfet there, 1x7135 on a second channel if someone wants a proper moon mode.
My current moon mode from nlite firmware is dimmer than the low mode but not that much to be a proper moon mode on a triple with direct drive.
Hence I will probably make a second channel connection to a single 7135 for a proper moon and no PWM low mode. They are not necessary though and the FET can be used to make lower modes as well. I really need a switch for my testing and to not use wires held in hands as a switch.
There are some other tiny FETs, I think comfychair uses them (IRLML2502), from ebay, cheap, handle 3-4A each, so you have to use at least 2 or 3. Still, they are tiny but will give you 10mOhm when 3 are used I think. Which is double of what the SiR424DP does.
Also some other I found there, AO3400, and the rest seemed not worth it.
I think board would be easy to make, just reuse existing layout.
Of course if I would do it I would want programming vias to pit pins in, etc. like Tido did on his to have easier access to programming.
Sure custom drivers are possible, but then you get to prices that you can see even on easier mods like Bocian’s Nanjg with ATtiny25V.
It takes time and work, costs on shipping and any premium parts like better ATtinys or good FETs cost and cost a bit compared to the more readily available parts.
Dunno how big the demand is either. It only starts to get worth it when buying parts in bulk per 100 pieces, to make lets say 50+ boards. Then you need to have it all down well otherwise you will spend a lot of time making all those boards. Better have an oven, stencil, …
I just yesterday gave a 20mm driver to oshpark, the PCB costs 3.1$ for a batch of three with shipping included.
Tiny13 costs 1.5$ and FETs,caps and resistors maybe 1$
So comparable to3$ for a nanjg, but nanjg comes already assembled….
A board isn’t so expensive and to assemble it will be much easier.
You just have to make the work one time and after that everybody could use it with less time, that’s the idea.
If you have sir424 and 7135 eagle bibs, designing a board would probably only take some hours…
Nope, I don’t have the design tools ready, I just have on here but I don’t think it has the parts. Usually the issues is that the design programs do not have the common parts or at least something like a SO-8 etc. so you can place them and name them without simulating anything but they just don’t. So I often ended up drawing parts instead of making layouts.
It is for sure easier to put new parts on a new board than desoldering and modifying boards.
And comfy was probably werner 
I confuse you guys, too many, too many names.
I just read you killed some of those IRLML2502s, that they only hold up to 3A each and your overloading toasted them.
Yep if they get hot they are only good for 3A…I should have opened it up after recognizing the smell and add another one but I was too lazy and so I grilled it…Even the wire on the led unsoldered itself. So it was damn hot.
I just checked eagle and there is no powerpak so8 package available, at least I can’t find it.
That’s sad. I guess I will never use my samples…
O.O
What did go to the LED? That the MCPCB got so hot the wires unsoldered lol.
How come the LED did not die, that’s one resistant .
Second driver made, around 3h time, gosh, not hard but time consuming.
May make comments later or make a separate thread for it, don’t have the firmware for dual output yet. Gotta buy a new PC first.
This was a triple XML board in a sk98, powered with 12A. So it gets super hot.
The led unsoldered themself, I should have took this as a warning but I just resoldered it and powered it up again… it began to smoke…I should also took this as a warning but I still let it on…so it burned.
I thought the LEDs flowed too haha, how come they survived? Or did not?
SK98 is tiny, I guess that wasn’t a copper MCPCB triple XM-L?
No it’s a normal PCB with through holes underneath the thermal pads. Also just glued in with AA. So it’s not very good.
Maybe the solder paste has a bit higher soldering temperature, also every led has its own current path but all the current has to go through one wire pad…maybe the wire wasn’t soldered on properly…