You are welcome. When it arrives, tell us how it fits, and wheter it is too heavy or unstable, because that seems to be the biggest issue people currently have with headlamps. I never had problems with too much weight on my head, even with my 21700-diving lamp, so I consider buying one myself too.
Its not about “problems” it is about comfort. Wearable it is not same as handheld so weight is important.
As long as I’m not doing sports, I think it’s all doable. After all the human neck is able to carry bike helmets or military ones that weigh several kilos. What is yet a 150g compared to that, as long as the headband fits comfortably.
I don’t know, maybe it’s just me being 20 and getting all the neck-pain later on.
The issue with front battery lights is, that the entire weight is on top of your head, leading to weird balance (and possibly the light slipping down). That’s why I am a big fan of split lights with battery on the back and a slim lamp head on the front for everything used for sports or just extended amounts of time. I’ve done up to 10km of fast-paced night running with my Lupine Piko, it never bothered me or slipped. More comfortable to wear for sports/hiking than even a Sofirn HS10 or Olight Perun Mini2 (both 16340) despite having 2 18650 cells in the pack.
As a working/quick use headlight, 18350 and 14500 front battery lights are great. But I guess this differs for everyone.
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Placing a small brick on forehead can work for static situation.
Using it to move or worse for run becomes a nightmare with the light going up and down.
Like I said, as long as I’m not doing sports. Of course, for sports we need something lightweight and perfectly balanced. What would you say about an external battery, connected via magnetic plug-type cable, that could be body-worn or mounted on the back of the head ?.
Magnetic cable sounds fun. The Lupine connectors are, honestly, crap 
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As far as I’m aware, none of the more budget end of the market produces such a thing, the last I know of (discontinued) was one of the Spark headlamps, even then it wasn’t ideal, it was a 3x18650 holder in a cylinder shape.
Aftermarket metal caving battery boxes to DIY are poisonously expensive.
I have something like it on my phone, branded “Aufu” and bought from eBay. It connects magnetically to a little adapter, which is permanently kept in the device and it is supposedly able to transfer 100W, with at least 5A.
Whilst it’s an older model, I really like the Sofirn D25LR https://www.stephenknightphotography.com/post/headlamp-review-sofirn-d25lr
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I really dislike the LR version of Sofirns / Boruit headlamp . First because I almost never need or use a red led . Secondly and most importantly by adding the red the light loses its ability to turn off memory . It starts in whatever mode you last used .creating some unexpected results .
The 25L is the best of them and even better with a minus green filter . A seriously great beater headlamp that you will use , abuse and enjoy .
Try wearing your headlamp with the strap fully loosened around your neck . Way more comfortable and much less geeky looking .
I cut the top straps off any headlight that comes with them because I so rarely use a headlamp on my forehead.
I think we have quite opposite needs for headlamps. I like red light (for when out doing night photography), last mode memory so that I don’t have to keep cycling through brightness levels, and even better, last mode memory for both red and high CRI white light.
Wurkkos HD20 and a buck driver, since when? 
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At the end the HD50 arrived yesterday, just 20 minutes before the departure for a weekend get-Away with my Gf: sign you are a real flashlight fanatic = trying the new Light as soon as you arrive in the hotel room + being more excited for the new toy than the upcoming trip under 35C sun in the new unexplored location.
For the 25$ I payed I am very happy: really solid, really bright, I like the UI, and I am curious to use it for real life situation (the gf rolled a bit the eyes after being in the room with 0 light, and me trying the UI!)
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Congrats on your new lights!
If you want to upgrade to an efficient and high-CRI light, consider the Convoy H4 with a B35AM.
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Thank you 14500!
Now you are touching a sensitive spot: except for the lh351d in this hd50, I don’t have any high cri lights!
So this is a very good reasons for another Light… The question is: 219b vs 519a Vs b35am… What would be the best place to start appreciate really a "very good tint that you look at and you say " damn, that is a very good tint? “” (I am really not that picky in choosing tints… I mean… I have a mf01s 5000k Astrolux and I don’t dislike it at all…)
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Isn’t that a buck-driver ?. I assumed it is one due to the presence of an inductor and filter capacitors. Also moonlight-mode is kind of bright.
[quote=“BOMBAY, post:33, topic:224704, full:true”]
The “Nichia 219B” is a pretty inefficient LED ( , ~60lm/W @3A ). It’s only meaningful if you want a very pink ( , “rosy” ) tint, but apart from that it is technically outdated.
The modern alternative is the “519A” ( , ~85lm/W @3A ). It is only slightly pink to perfectly neutral in tint, and can be easily dedomed for a heavy shift towards warmwhite and pink, but I leave that to the experts here because I don’t do it. It’s also available in many temperatures and robust enough to be often overdriven to 6A, which makes it a very practical option and applicable in semi-throwers.
The “B35AM” is strange, very sensitive to overcurrent, heat ( , due to lacking thermal pad ) and mechanical stress ( , due to missing protective glass ). But it produces for sure the best and most neutral tint I know of. It’s also sometimes available in 6500K, which is very rare for CRI>97-LED’s and extremely beautiful in my eyes. And because it’s a 6V-LED, you know there must be an efficient boost-driver, when you see it in a single-cell-flashlight. There’s wildly different test-data about it’s efficiency between ~75 and 120lm/W @1,5A., which I both find hard to believe. My rough guess sits around 100lm/W, but remember it’s emmiting-area is much larger than those from the rest.
The “Cree XP-G4” is also available with CRI~90 in some temperatures. The slight green tint isn’t considered the most beautiful, but still lightyears ahead from most low-CRI-LED’s. It will give you at least 105lm/W @3A, and having a small emitter, it will throw even better. However I 'm not aware of any lights equipped with it yet, so it would need to be bought from “Kaidomain” and installed manually.
Anyways, good luck deciding on just … one … more flashlight !.
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perhaps this is the first buck driver that has zero level of brightness stabilization 
I did not test it, light is still out of duty because of a broken switch for which I need to solder on an replacement to the board.
So the inductor must be for the USB-output then ?.