What 17 mm driver(s) from mtnelectronics do you guys recommend for powering a Nichia 219C with 1x18650? I’m looking for maximum regulated runtimes, even on the highest level. I understand this means sacrificing potential maximum output, and I’m comfortable with getting just 300-400 lumen OTF. Thanks a lot!
Hmmm, Looking at this Nichia 219C, testing a 5000K 83CRI emitter, comparing with a XP-G2 S4 2B and other leds
I would suggest this http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_116&product_id=240
OR
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_116&product_id=241
I have AK-47 on the way. Take good look at the modes they are very different.
both can be bought with guppydrv or custom setups.
Chadvone’s suggestions and links look solid to me.
Well the AK-47 I recommended above came today. It does not have the modes that is described on the webpage. Soldering stars does nothing. It is a 5/3 driver with mode changes from blink at low. Just like the driver I wanted to replace.
FWIW one of the two pages you linked to showed the 3/5 mode groups while the other page showed the “Default: 100% - 33% - 5% - Strobe - SOS”… it’s difficult to believe that anyone would want to switch from the 5/3 firmware to the “Default: 100% - 33% - 5% - Strobe - SOS” firmware, so I’m not sure exactly what you were going for. Did you order the driver setup with an alternative firmware? I’m sure RMM will help you out, but really it sounds like it’s time to head over here: Hoop - Guide: how to flash a NANJG / Qlite driver with custom firmware
Yes, it shows that now. It was changed today. Sent email this morning.
Richard said his supplier changed them without letting him know.
The version I ordered Was
Star 1 5-25-100
Star 2 5-25-100-strobe-sos
Star 3 15-100
Star 4 ml-5-25-100
I am gonna send them back and have him flash guppydrv.
I will look into flashing drivers.
With a 219c…17mm fet+1…all the way, I’ve built several 219c lights with different hosts with fet+1 drivers and it gives low lows and bright turbos.
I don’t believe the fet +1 is regulated on High modes. I could be wrong.
Turbo is, wiiiiide open……
Lol, I can’t believe I missed that…nope,not regulated.
Aha! 
I have now decided to keep them, and maybe take wight’s advice and get into flashing.
It looks way over my head. But so was swapping a driver a few weeks ago 
Good call! Lots of folks in Hoop’s thread would be happy to tell you that it’s definitely not over your head.
I suggest LED Flashlight-INTL Outdoor Store
I run my 219C with that driver and this baby is bright
Mike
I think people worry waaay too much about regulation.
Almost all single li-ion drivers are linear drivers, so they only regulate while there is high enough voltage. The only way to get better regulation is a buck/boost style setup, but Zebralight and Armytek are pretty much the only people who do this, and it’s not something you can easily buy as just a driver.
You want a current limiting driver for the 219C. Otherwise they draw too much current from a decent battery. They have a very low Vf, that’s what keeps your output pretty constant to quite low battery voltage levels, without a buck/boost circuit.
I have measured a triple 219B-V1 (which also have very low Vf) with a 105C stacked for 5.08A at exactly 5.08A with thin DMM probes. Output is 1300 lm with battery at 4.2V and 1200 with battery nearly empty.
With a single 219C, you don’t want your current draw go past 6A, but that’s what’s gonna happen with a FET-driver and decent battery. Stacking chips on a 105C is they way to go for these low Vf emitters, IMO.
Yes, the 219C has a very low forward voltage. You probably want to regulate the high mode unless you’re running 3x nimh or a lifepo4.
Not the cheapest and not from Mtn electronics, but Led4power’s LD-2 driver looks like a great option for the Nichia219C. I just ordered one myself though it hasn’t arrived yet. The high mode has essentially unregulated DD/fet performance but it is limited to 6A by default so you wont blow the led.
Otherwise going with a Q-lite/Nanjg and re-programming it just how you want it as far as the modes go seems like a good option.
Chouster and Hoop hit the nail on the head. I haven’t played with the 219C yet but the graphs are crazy and regulation is clearly recommended.
If absolute maximum battery life is desired the 219C may even have a low enough Vf to make a QX9920 based buck driver worthwhile. In fact, I think it would be worthwhile. The LD-29 is not QX9920 based and might still be a good choice due to the 219C’s very low Vf. I think that the “current setting” procedure for the LD-25 also works on the LD-29. It’s worth playing around with, but a QX9920 based driver such as the ones seen in the Thorfire JM07, Solarforce dropins, the Jax Z1, and many others seems like a safe bet. IIRC it requires approximately 0.2v of overhead.
Thanks for all the recommendations, guys. 
Hoop, the LD-2 you suggested looks interesting. It’s unfortunate that it exceeds my budget.
wight, I’ve also considered using a buck driver. I actually have several old XM-L Solarforce dropins, but their drivers have very noticeable PWM. Even if they didn’t I doubt they are the current ones used in their XPL and XM-L2 dropins.
chouster, that’s some incredible performance. Perhaps I should also consider a triple with the 219C. I should connect them in parallel right, not in series?
It looks like the linear 7135 drivers are the best available option for me.
I’d be surprised if SF has changed the driver they use. They aren’t exactly all about innovation.