Don’t warm and neutral whites work better in fog? Weren’t fog lights yellow?
I think some aftermarket fog lights are yellow, though I haven’t seen any like that in a while. Factory fog lights are not. I haven’t seen any that are at least.
I should probably specify their actual use though. I called them fog lights, but they will actually be used full time as a light supplement. I try not to ride in the fog on my bike anyway. Deer love to jump out when it’s cool and damp.
Yeah warmer colours are better in fog, white seems to bounce back at you and yellows go through it.
Reflector $8.50
Driver $5
I haven't seen empty bike housings like that but since it also fits a WF-500 it will fit any 50mm housing including a Mag head. You could always go with that Skyray light, swap in the DRY driver for $5 and rewire the LEDs to series.
how bright do you want them? these were mentioned on the zg fanatics forum:
ken
I’ve seen this design around. Very well made and exactly what I would like. It’s a bit more costly than I’d like to spend.
It’s probably what I should buy though. Better to save up and buy what i’ll ultimately be able to use.
To answer your question though. I don’t think it could be too bright. These will be focused at the ground.
I had a similar idea to build a fog light for my street bike.
I started using this triple XML holder.
http://www.cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=1408
With 3 XMLs and these three drivers wired independently one driver per XML
http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/17mm-30v18v-3w-led-circuit-board-p-5644
One driver per XML to get some redundancy in case one burns out and all that’s left is a generic fog light holder to house the whole unit. I never finished building my unit but it should work.
Can anyone advice if I can wire 4 Xmls t6 in series and run them off direct drive on a bike’s 12v8ah SLA battery? I mean how much current would flow into those XML?
Absolutely not. Automotive Electrical Systems have two problems for Direct Drive
1) They vary in voltage too much because of the Alternator - Voltage can easily be as high as 14V
2) They are capable of delivering hundreds of amps of current for short times. High voltage combined with High current reserves = Blown Up XM-L
You MUST use a (preferably switching) regulator for automotive systems.
PPtk
Got another question, I like to make a 4xXml
Off road bike light using a driver http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S020121# rated for 3-18v & 2.5amp(with 4leds). I like to know how much current is going through each led when connected in series?
Thank you.
When in series, all LEDs will get the EXACT same current. In this case, 2.5 Amps each.
FYI, leds absolutely suck in the fog. I have ran my 6xml light bar on high in the fog and I could not see anything.
Your light bar sucked in the fog. That doesn't mean all LED's will suck in the fog. Optics and tint matter more than what actually produces the light. I bet your light bar had both a poor choice of optics and tint for use in the fog, and was probably poorly located as well.
Leds are to intense. You get the “high beam in the fog effect”. Smoke, dust, whatever. leds are not the chioce for this. Don’t believe me, Take your led flashlight outside when its foggy or smoky and shine it through. Colar can not “cut fog”. Amber help you render better but can not “cut fog”.
You're right, I don't believe you. Go put your device on one of your LED flashlights, go out in the fog, and lay your light onto and parallel with the ground. Try it again without your device while holding your flashlight in a tactical position.
Edit: Oops, I thought you were Daylighter. The point of that exercise was to show you that foglights depend on a sharp cutoff, a wide angle, and a position that's close to the ground and a good vertical distance away from your eyes.
Hmm, if only I could find a way to make the module street ready (ie. not blind everyone) this would be perfect for the bike I'm building.