Remote switch tail board with FET, so no added resistance

Lexel,

This are 17-18 mm boards?

I see that you did not want to listen to my advice here from your thread( but you should :slight_smile: ) :

ā€œ20mm boards are more standard ones? 90% of Uniquefire flashlights, Brinyte, Mitkos Supwildfires etcā€¦.

Let the reference of Omten or Kan 28 switch guides youā€¦ Flashlight who has them installed must have at least 20 mm switch board because their size is 18mm(cube) and 19-19,5 at contacts belowā€

Iā€™ll have to piggy back it to 20 mm board somehow to fit it to UF lights or permanently epoxy itā€¦

I am really sure in statement that 90% of budget lights here have 20mm board. Anyone wanna bet?

the boards are 17mm, this fits most 18650 lights can be filed down to 16mm

I can make em in 20mm if there is demand

Payment sent.

I will fit first 17mm version somehow then if Iā€™ll need more I will contact you for 20 mm boards.

20mm designed

I had just started thinking about FET + super capacitor, but you are way ahead of me.

:slight_smile:

I have a diode on the board which supports supercap charging from a bleeder, but a 15 cent battery should last hundreds of hours continuous on

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/zhwX28Dd

Lexel,

Can you design dimmer switch that could additionally control brightness of each mode of lets say FET driver or at least high only/single mode drivers?

Lexel,

I did switch mod:

It works without any lux dropā€¦

But I have issueā€¦ My driver is high mid low without memory effect so it always starts on high mode only (1 second is enogh to reset to high each time)

With your switch I am getting next mode only. For example one press high mode, i waitā€¦ Another press goes to middle instead of highā€¦

So something happened here and I donā€™t know what?
I lose memory reset on my driver while I have this switch installedā€¦

When I put default switch everything is fine (driver always starts in high mode without need for cycling through modes, memory reset works with classic switch).

Any idea?

You need a driver like biscotti set to one mode or bridge the driver so it runs DD over the tail cap, then no problems at all

The tail cap is just an electronic version of a switch, should no affect you driver, unless it reacts odd to a fraction of one uA parasitic drain

Setting a high/low might be possible if a 2. switch activates a different set of resistors that put the FET into a state where it acts as a resistor, problem is that varies with supply voltage of the battery, may be possible adding a Zener diode to stabilize it

I would really like it but it affects my driver(my diy Djozz FET drivers over 50 of them ready to install) so it looses memory reset function while I have it installedā€¦ So currently while I am having them ready I will not change to biscotti set.

So yes I will confirm for BLF community. Your fet rat tail switch works without any and I really mean 0 lux drop on single cell FET driverā€¦ :+1:

That why I am so unhappy because I canā€™t use it in my setup :frowning:

Lexel,

Is there any chance that I messed something up with soldering? Maybe battery is touching switch pad or something and because of that I loose memory reset function?

We should all thank Lexel for his efforts! Cheers m8.

Lately i will PM him and i hope shortly after we will have a new desing, no battery needed :wink:

:+1:

I got one possibility that may cause your driver to mess up
Have you checked that the coin battery has no short to the tube?
It should be only connected to the battery pad and the switch
if its positive shorted to tube it keeps the MCU Ground lifted to 3V which would not mean the OTC gets discharged properly

This is why I like the Bistro HD OTSM drivers so much now, no matter what you do in the tail
the MCU stays on during the presses so nothing messes up offtime timing

ā€œHave you checked that the coin battery has no short to the tube?ā€

I am not sure that I get you but you see on my pics that whole switch is in plastic cap so no chance it shorts to tube?

maybe on the board itself, the whole board is with tube ground covered, probably change this on the battery side

I did check(re soldered everything) and same thingā€¦

I just donā€™t have luck :slight_smile:

But anyway it is very fine to see progress in this field. :+1:

Hope you and Mitko will think new version soon. He has idea for you :wink:

Did you arranged something?

No the guy who copies the Olight driver with tail cap did not contact me

But that design also relies on some electronics on driver charging the cap in tail real quick on first turn on

Mitko,

You knowā€¦ Your word in this thread(seen by everyone) about contacting Lexel about capacitor powered fet switch instead of battery one should mean something right? Hope everything is ok with youā€¦ I know you have a lot of work but please find time to contact Lexel as promised.

Lexel,

It is not bad to see how something is made and then made own design? I mean 70% of flashlights here on BLF are made that way? Especially Uniquefire company that copied Wolf Eyes and Dereelight flashlights for business start. Now they really have their own design lights but they started with knockoffs :slight_smile:

I am also very interested to know how Mitko did it cause by your statement it seems that this ainā€™t easy jobā€¦ Especially if driver mod is needed to achieve that :frowning:

I sold 10 of those boards to 4 guys, and still sitting on 10 boards with 5 remote switches

not a good salesman