No regulation I am aware of. It’s direct drive. Those are MOSFETs for the modes using PWM. They are in parallel to handle the current you should have had. Either way, I’d dump it in favour of the NANJG.
But, and I know I’m being painfully persistent, does this look the same as your driver?
And yes, planning to switch as soon as the stuff comes in from FastTech.
BTW, put everything back, and light is working again.
Sometimes, I just amaze myself :)!!
Yup, same driver as mine. The variation in current draw is probably resistance in the tailcap, and wires. I may have resistor modded mine before replacing it, which has me confused. Mine may have been low current before that.
I don’t think it was the tailcap resistance. I thought I mentioned it, but when I measure the tailcap current, the tailcap switch is physically not in the circuit.
I do it outside the light (taken apart).
One lead to the positive spring, to the + of the battery.
Then, another lead from negative battery to one lead on meter (current measurement), and the other meter lead to the head part of the body that’s not anodized.
So, no tailcap switch in that circuit…
Edit: I also did with the meter on the + spring, i.e., current into/from the driver itself.
Right, forgot that. What about the meter? Do you know the resistance of it when measuring current? Have you had issues with the current measurements on other lights? If not then you might want to try a resistor mod. There is a row of resistors thar look like 1R5. Add an R120 on top of one. You can pick any value resistor in that range. Even shorting across one is fine for testing.
Hmm… So there WAS a mod, and the 3+ amps that were being reported wasn’t for a purely out-of-box measurement?
I’ve been driving myself crazy trying to figure out why I’ve been getting 1.47 amps :(!
relic,
Also, I’ve been thinking:
I know that you said that you used the original emitter, and I’m guessing that was at least partially because of the weird size of the opening?
So, I was wondering: What if you desoldered the emitter from the existing PCB and took another emitter+PCB and, say, Fujik’ed that on top of the bare, original PCB? Kind of like what you did with the driver PCB.
Would that work? Or would the new emitter be too far forward to work with the reflector then?
Edit: I’m thinking this because maybe there’re newer emitters like the XM-L2…
Jim
I said I swapped the emitter, on the same mcpcb. My upgrade was only one bin, T6 to U2. I had it lying around… totally optional. I think this would be better than putting a star on top of the bigger star. Reflector space is not enough for that extra 1.6mm.
Sorry about the confusion on the drive current. I did quite a few mods that were not well documented. This was one of them. I cannot reliably recall what mine was driving at out of the box.
No, no - no problem with you. As I said earlier, I really appreciate the info (and patience…) that you provided already. I’m not quite at the stage where I’m ready to try to remove and reflow an emitter yet… still just getting my feet wet. So, I’ll probably stick with the original T6 emitter, and just try swapping the driver with the “generic” one from FastTech.
Actually this is better for me, as my 1st (and last) experience with working with emitters/emitter PCBs was kind of a mess.
So, the plan, for me is to wait until the new driver comes in and Fujik it to the original driver PCB like you showed. I also have some 20 AWG teflon wire coming in, so will use that to connect the new driver to the T6 emitter.
For now, I’m not planning to do anything with the tailcap switch, but will see how things look after the driver switch. I do have a bunch of SolarForce tailcaps, just in case.
Does that sound ok?
Thanks,
Jim
Sounds good. At some point you should address the tailcap spring. I have a How To that I hope to post one of these days… hopefully soon.
I will, but first the driver :). As I said, I think from the thread, they said that the Solarforce switches work with this, and I have several extra of those, plus a spare McClicky, which I’d love to find a use for.
If you do post your HOWTO on the switch, can you post somewhere that it’s available. I’ll definitely take a look.
Thanks,
Jim
That’s roughly what mine is doing, -stock.
I just looked back on my records and mine was pulling 3.80A on a partially discharged King Kong 26650. Stock without any mods (still stock).
-Garry
Hi,
Are you saying that if I used a 26650 battery, that the current might increase? If so, I have a 26650 coming in with the A8, which looks like it should be delivered tomorrow.
I was thinking about it, and had another idea. What about wiring the + side of the battery to the emitter (and the emitter - side to the body/ground)?
According to this:
the maximum forward current @ 3 amps is 3.35V. Would the emitter survive being directly connected to the battery?
I’d have to give up on the modes, which I’d be ok with.
Edit: From this:
it looks like direct drive might be ok, if I don’t use lower gauge wires?
I doubt the 26650 will drive it much harder than the +/- 1.5A you're seeing now. Direct drive on a 26650 cell is not recommended as you could very easily release the magic smoke!
-Garry
In case anyone’s interested, I think they’re on ebay again:
Auction:
But it now (13.85!)
Jim
nice find Jim… too bad the Ultrafire XM-L T6 ( keygos M10 clone) is much better light than this for about the same price
keygos M10 clone it has tighter hotspot
I also moved the emitter slightly further into the reflector. Now the hotspot is a little larger but just as bright as the HD2010.
Relic,
How do you did this? THX 