I have ordered 6 of them and all are perfect. I give them to friends and family.
Ordered one, finally, and the other Strider copy, and that $3 neck knife, and a whole bunch of other stuff! The Strider copy I got last order is pretty amazing for 10 bucks. It’s a quarter inch thick and the sheath alone is worth what it costs.
Some years ago, i started to buy folder knives from China. I started with fake folders, my knowlegde was not very high. The fakes can have beautiful designs but the steel can be unuseful or the lock can be dangerous. Some of my fakes can be closed with a little push on top of the blade. Then i started to buy good cheap chinese knives from enlan, sanrenmu, ganzo, inron…
Trust me, i will not back to buy fakes. I want now to buy a fixed knife but not fakes from strider, buck or Bg. Perhaps i will try with a y-start fixed knife or a will continue with some ganzo knives that i have not in my collection.
The fakes can be good looking (sure, they are a copy of a work design) but the quality, finish or security is not the same.
Just got 2 of the 480’s and I agree they are good buy. Other than noticing that the clask on the sheath does not secure the heal well enough to keep it from falling out if it were jiggled upside down enough (that would make it potentially dangerous if you are in the habit of laughing hard while standing on your head and wearing the knife at the same itme), I see no downsides with getting this item.
Mmmmmmm i think i have seen this design in a place…
Yes, a copy “no fake” from strider.
I got a couple of the Buck knives as well. There’s a bit of inconsistency with how that button strap is on the sheath. One of them has a nice tight fit; the other has a strap that is too long. Not a big problem, I just tied a knot in it to shorten. I guess I could sew it shorter if I want to be neater.
One other knit-pick about the knife is that I wish the screw holes for the handle weren’t recessed so much. I would have like them to be flush or just under flush with the rest of the handle. That way gunk doesn’t build up in the holes.
It’s a decent knife for the price. Like some of the posters, I didn’t get an oil bottle with mine.
I’m thinking of stripping mine, which will hopefully take the fake Strider logo off. Maybe a Kydex sheath, too. But that one from Manafont also looks nice.
Thanks a lot for the review! Sticky’d.
Hi all!
Today I received my first Buck-knife.
It is in good condition, blade is sharp enough to cut slides out of paper.
I happen to work in a place, where I can test steel for it´s toughness in Brinell (HBW).
We have very reliable, calibrated equipment which we use and I´m a qualified tester.
I know that the hardness does not exactly verify the alloy used in this but IMO it tells quite a bit anyway.
Testing leaves small marks to blade but I think I can live with that ;)
Good to know the steel is good. Is there some basic test a novice could do without risking damage to the edge? Like, maybe a center punch on the side of the blade or something? I have many cheap knives I’d like to know if the heat treatment is good on 
I would maybe carry my Buck 480 if it had a better sheath. The part that holds the blade in place isn’t sewn right and the blade flops around loose. It’s unsafe the way it is, but otherwise it’s an awesome knife. This one is high on my list if I get around to making my own kydex sheaths.
Yes, I have done some while studying.
Too bad our products (Harden wear-resistant steel, crusher plates, ballistic steel) are not well suited for Rockwell testing
because of the shape of intender, dwelling weight and the molecular (quite coarse) structure of steel we use.
Thus we lack the proper equipment for it.
Probably I could find Rockwell tester somewhere from our compound but...
The heat treatment itself is not much of a guarantee for tough or hard steel, if the base material isn´t right.
We often refer it as a “steel Dough”.
With cheap/bad steel, you can achieve hardening at some level depending on what it is but if you want all parameters to be good, you need proper base material to start with.
BUT: it is of course possible to make the heating and quenching wrong.
Heating cooling take considerable amounts of energy, so if you do the process in a bad way with good base material (which also costs some) you will lose pretty penny.
I have not yet tested the blade.
I will do it tomorrow and probably post some pics also. 
Some tests made.
I took 2 points from the side of the blade.
Results are:
- 543HBW
- 555HBW
So, it´s hard allright…
If Chloe’s chart is accurate about 54 Rockwell. Certainly it’s hard enough to do the job.
In general it has a tad more hardness than basic hardened armor steel plate.
Thanks, CheapThrills. I think 54 HRC is a little low really even for 440 but if you’re happy with the knife that’s what counts.
Small reference point, Victorinox harden their X55Cr14 blades to 56 HRC, whilst X39Cr13 (nearest equiv. 420) tools are 52-56 HRC.
Random table for conversions:
http://www.onekeycast.com/technology/hardness-conversion/
Generally steels rated for example to hardness "500HBW" have a certain range of hardness.
They must exceed the minimum yet not go over rated maximum (for not losing too much characteristics for bending, machining, welding etc.).
For example our steelgrade "500" has a hardness range From 450HBW TO 530HBW.
Anything between that meets the standards.
I would by my knowledge say, this might well still be material meeting standards for 56HRC steel. Cannot be absolutely sure though, this bases only to my 12yr experience on testing.
I might even get a measurement point meeting that hardness from this blade, fluctuation of tens of Brinells while testing the very same plate from close points to each other
is not at all uncommon.