Review: Eagle Eye X6 BLF Special Edition pre-sale sample *Updated 9/8

Ha ha, best way to avoid a fight, 6 months later when she finally notices it, “but honey I told you ages ago” :slight_smile:

That’s what works for me! Then, when she insists that I didn’t tell her - “Well, I thought for sure I did. I’m sorry, I guess I forgot. But I meant to tell you.”

sweet!
now I cant wait for mine

Have you been listening in on my home conversations with my lady?

Nice write-up and pics JM! I've ben searching for posted basic dimensions and can't find it anywhere, in any of the many X6 reviews/threads around I know of, at least in the OP's. This BangGood listing: BG-X6 only has length and this listing: hBG-BLF-Special-Edition-X6 has a whacky head diameter. Can you update the OP with real measured length, head diameter and tail diameter measurements? Thanx!

Length: 134.60mm

Head Width: 41.13mm

Tube Width: 23.50mm

Thanks for the review. Any input on the runtimes at different modes?

Thanks for the review, looks great.

But can it core a apple?

Actually, yes. Remove tailcap and cell. Smash end of light into an apple. Cored! :smiley:

All of sudden I’d really like to see a video of this. :smiley:

would the light exterior contain hazardous chemicals that would be left on the food?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22oCaiccz3w

Not an apple coring video but a waterproofing test video. I've updated the OP at the bottom with a video showing the EE X6 is indeed completely water tight after soaking it overnight for 10.5 hours.

Great Work JonnyMac ! Thanks for All you do! Glad that was resolved so simply.

Nicely done, JM…nicely done! :slight_smile:

Thanks for all your work on this group buy and clearing up the water proof issue. Important to know, CK must have done some mod that prevented the O-ring from compressing up front.

I’ve noticed a little flange, an overpour or something, like a flap of skin on the red oring. Perhaps this is an issue with some of the orings and these might not seal properly due to that. I need to look at the 3 I have here and see if that is an oddity or a norm.

I’ve also seen before, not sure if it was on these or not, a sliver of the silver reflective coating from somewhere on the reflector stuck to an oring. This kind of thing can easily interfere with the seal. So it would seem to be pretty important to double check these orings if you have the light apart for any reason.

That would be considered “flash” from the molding process, Dale.
O-rings are often ground to remove this. You can get cheap o-rings that don’t get “de-flashed” but they will not work to what is considered an expected design standard. This is normally caught at the manufacturer’s QA step.

And yes, contamination like a sliver of plating can also cause havoc. Normally this happens when you pressure or a vacuum on either side… such as thermal cycling. A hot light dropped into cold water will try to “suck in” water. Properly designed glands and manufacturing process steps won’t allow water in. But in our lights, the switch-cap is the weak link. This can be improved in this light, but it is certainly not a show stopper. You will see some lights that have a plastic part around the switch that also has a shoulder to the inside of the switch-cap. This is an attempt to make the tailcap watertight to some depth. You won’t get this without some well engineered parts just because generically, manufacturers will not control all the required tolerances. They become very stringent for diving quality.

This light has an aluminum washer between the rubber boot and the switch that presumably presses the shoulder or flange of the boot against the tail cap for a seal. I always make sure the retaining ring is very tight, and this light has good solid thick brass retaining rings. So perhaps the tail end of this is a bit better than some/most?

It repels yellow center line striping paint, I know that for a fact! :slight_smile:

If the switch boot can be pulled out (with a little effort) without tearing, then it is not a dive rated seal. I have a lot of lights with this arrangement (just a washer with pressure against the switch body). It is perfectly water resistant. But the pressure is in only in direction (axial). What improves this is if you also have a radial limit.

Again, it is not a show stopper. This is not a dive light.

Here is a sample of what is the next level of fit-n-finish.