Hi MaddoxX, any updates from u for the review of your torchlight? 
received my c8 xml2 in smo.
noticably brighter than the orginal c8.
its a must buy if you are looking for a c8. its super bright, almost the furthest throwing stock c8, very good spill.
and is cheap!
i have to do a second round of testing, but the lightmallâs xml2 c8 was slightly brighter.
Just finished a Convoy C8 host build, designed for throw - copper discs added, 22 gauge wires, Nanjg 3.94A, XP-G2 de-domed, 16mm SinkPAD, SMO XP-G reflector, tailcap wired (brass cap removed), UCL lens, fresh Samsung 20R, measures 4.02A at the tail:
125 kcd measured at 4.3 meters - Now this is a C8 thrower! (sorry Ray 
)
I don't know how long it will last - disappointed in the heat sinking and tail switch of the Convoy C8's, and wow, she does get quite warm in a minute or so, for some reason so I won't be keeping it on high very long .
holy smokes Tom!
that is one heck of a c8 flame thrower you got there! maybe doing that mod to a xintd c8 would be a better optionâŚ
hmm⌠i should have sent you another c8 for the thrower instead of that small sun c10. now my 76kcd smallsun doesnt sound too powerful.
A XinTD is an XML non-standard reflector (threads into pill), so there may be issues there, but one could certainly try with it. An UltraFire C8 host would probably do it as well, just that I had 2 Convoy C8 hosts laying around. I already did about 100 kcd on a C8 pill that's in a LightMalls C8 now with a de-domed XM-L2 T6 0D, so the XP-G2 results are not surprising. De-doming usually doubles the kcd.
Some review of KD c8 xm-l2 U2? (and/or VS convoy C8 xm-l U2 2.8 amp)
But happy for you, I shoudda got the lightmall zml2 maybe I can talk Mr.Tom E into helping me out for a fee?
I have the KD C8 xml U2 copper pill andKDC8 xml2 and I ordered Fasttech Convoy C8 xml U2 along with a pair of panasonic 18650 3400mAh for a friend.
Finish is better with the Convoy C8, but I am disappointed with the reflector. The spill is all over the place. Not good.
Lanyard of Convoy C8 is better than KDC8.
The reflector of both the KDC8 SMO and OP throws much better than the Convoy C8 sample I received.
I would recommend the KDC8 over the Convoy C8 just because of the reflector. When I put the KD C8 reflector in the Convoy, it rattles a bit in the convoy no idea why.
Convoy C8 as host is good, but get the KDC8 if you do not want any supriseâŚ. Convoy is cheeper than KD thoâŚ
Is a single mode light brighter than a multi function light with same emitter and battery?
Is a single mode light brighter than a multi function light with same emitter and battery?
The answer to your question would also depend on what driver is in each of the lights.
Identical driver, emitter A, batteries etc.
No, same brightness - Hi mode is pretty much always 100%, so as long as the driver design is the same between the two, amp regulation (or lack thereof) is the same, so should get same output. If they are different driver designs, well, anything is possible - could be worse or better.
Hi Flashpilot, thanks for posting your informative review. I have a similar light, the Wf-501b Cree Xm-l T6. It works great as an inexpensive/lightweight/compact light for night time mountain biking. I velcro one to my helmet for seeing farther around corners cornering and the other I have on my bars for visual depth perception/shadow casting.
I was wondering if you or others in the group had an opinion about the best ways to get around the problem of the handlebar-mounted light auto-cycling through its modes. It drives me crazy when the light goes into strobe mode on rocky singletrack when I canât take a hand off the bars to correct it. Itâs the vibration that causes the problem.
As mounts I have tried a rigid plastic rotating clip which works OKâŚ
http://www.amazon.com/Bicycle-Flashlight-Holder-rotation-Cycling/dp/B00ADLUDSA/ref=pd_sim_sg_2
⌠and a tremendously versatile silicone band, which I love:
http://www.amazon.com/Cycling-Bicycle-Silicone-Flashlight-Ribbon/dp/B00CBT76TG/ref=pd_sim_sg_3
I have not yet tried adding a damper to the setup, which I could easily do with the the silicone band. But Iâm still not sure this would solve the problem when hitting larger obstacles like water bars, so Iâm thinking more of reducing the number of modes, since I never use the flashing modes anyhow.
I donât wish to go to a single-mode light, because often I need the lights for more than two hours, and the Medium setting is fine for everything but the most technical singletrack.
Iâm not really set up to modify the lights, since I donât even own a soldering iron, so was thinking about purchasing a 2-mode light, maybe the A9-T60 CREE XM-L-T6 2-Mode.
Iâve been mountain biking for years but never invested in the expensive lights needed for off-road riding, so now I find myself a noob in this field and welcome any suggestions or advice you or others might offer.
Hi PabloS,
Probably the best deal offered today in the versatility of a quality and reliable bike/flashlight is the Convoy C8. For bike ridding, I would recommend one with an orange peel reflector and cold white tint. The driver in this one is driven at a confirmed 2.8A, has two mode groups to enable h/m/l only and comes with low voltage warning. They also handle the long Panasonic NCR1865B cells if necessary. They never change modes on their own when going over bumps because the driver requires two button presses after 1 second to change modes. All Convoys have positive reviews because they are well built. If you later find that you require a wider viewing angle, replace the lens for one of these. They work VERY well in the C8. Always use quality cells to make your flashlights perform well. Chinese made cells are almost always junk.
Also, a short sold mount with a low center of gravity will be far more stable. I use these on all of my bikes because they have proven to be better than any other mount I have yet to try for single 18650 flashlights. Buy 2 - one for each side so you can carry 2 flashlights. Keep them mounted as close to the goose neck as possible.
If youâre going to be cycling in areas without ambient light, always carry 2 lights in case one goes out. Its very rare, but there have been times I wouldnt have made it home without having a second light to save me.
Good advice fp !! I got to order a couple of those lenses and bike mounts...
lens may be a little cheaper here, depending on shipping: http://www.action-led-lights.com/collections/accessories/products/wide-angle-lens
the convoy for bike that flashpilot say i have the same collors and reflector on a convoy m1 its very good.
Thanks FlashPilot, thatâs great info. Much appreciated!
What caused the outage? Was it dead battery, or vibration related failure, or âŚ.?
The sudden death list:
- Driver failure due to repeated severe impacts from the cell striking it and fracturing the driver board.
- Poor driver or switch mounting system, or poor grounding path.
- Loosening of tail cap switch retainer or failure of the components that make up the assembly. Yes, I inspect my lights before each ride and completely disassemble new lights to adjust/mod them.
- Failure of cell protection circuits or the leads that connect the circuit board to the cell
- Detachment or fracturing of solder joints from the driver (wires and/or SMD components)
- Failure of emitter caused by a failed driver (went into direct drive and vaporized the emitter bond wires)
- Internal short of a cell: probably from repeated impacts and killed it instantly when it shorted⌠again stay away from any cell even suspected of being made in china. They can and do explode.
- Reflector shorting against the emitter mcpcb. Sometimes it takes repeated impacts to make a seemingly sound light turn into a dead short.
- Driver spring being bent over from impact and causing a dead short/hot battery tube scenario.
Im sure there have been many others. Arent you happy you asked? lol
Bike riding can impose extreme repeated high G impacts on equipment. When a light goes out, I immediately switch it off and check for a warming condition of the battery tube. If its not hot, I remove the cell as fast as I can before it might have a chance to fail. Hopefully, a quality protected cell would protect you from a dead short scenario, but dont count on it; regardless of what others might tell you. You might be dealing with components that have been pounded to hell and back, which can change their performance envelopes.
Many of my lights are modded for high current, so many protection circuits will not handle my personal demands. Those lights require unprotected cells. On one occasion, a light failed and the battery tube burned my hand when I touched it. I plucked it from the mount and threw it 50 feet in front of me to gain some distance. It smoked and sizzled then blew out the tail cap boot, melted the coating off the reflector and tarnished all the anodizing, turning it from black to an ugly orange color. Even the silicon o-rings turned into a sticky goo. Those were the days when I rode with junky flashlights for bike lights⌠no more of that!
The Convoy C8 supports the cell with spring pressure at both ends. The driver spring is short and very robust so it will likely never fail during severe impacts. Of course there are always exceptions. If you ride and have impacts, anticipate failures. Just take steps to protect yourself first and come prepared. Thoroughly inspect your equipment before each ride and stay within cell phone range in case you need assistance.
Night time bike ridding brings new life into an old sport and its a great way to share with friends. Have fun and enjoy! :bigsmile: