I did not file hardly anything down, just smoothed off the the nubs on the sides and it fit. It is set to only HI and MED no low or flashy modes.
Larry
Yeah I noticed that, just didn’t want to say how it looks like or draw it.
There is certainly 3 edges shaped distortion on the outside of my beam, or any M10 beam due to the bezel, it has 3 points to stand on, it is invisible if not up close to a wall though.
The center? Might be emitter, that is also square, nothing you will do about that. The only thing that can be wrong with the light is out of focus, bad assembly, dirty emitter or dirty reflector. But to make it so symmetric, my bet is that it’s the emitter. Just rotate the light around the one axis and you will see how that square will rotate. Heh doesn’t say much, okey, manage to rotate the reflector only somehow, unscrew the cap, press the reflector in, hold the light and rotate the reflector only. You should see that the square stays. Then it’s the emitter. If the square rotates then your reflector has some defect, but you should be able to see that just by looking at it.
–2EV is from photography, it means it’s underexposed by 2EV, that means it’s 4 times darker.
Well that KD driver looks configured for what I wrote, based on KD’s manual for it.
… wait, I see it, High/Med, you’re right. I got confused by the silly Chinese that swapped the use of O and X.
Thanks for the review JackCY! Someday I'll get one of these M10's and mod it.
-Garry
Get one Gary, you’ll love it to pieces, imo its one of the most underrated budget lights available and can be made spot on for a total outlay of $25 or so.
Given how cheap the two group nanjg drivers, xm-l t6 4c’s and additional 7135 chips are from fasttech, I could easily build these as £30 gifts for family with a charger and 18650 cells, which is a very good thought. 
Thanks very much for the review! Frontpage’d and Sticky’d.
My M10 was upgraded to XML-U3 1B and 11*7135 105C driver, its pulling about 3850mA on high with a freshly charged Panasonic 18650 2900 mAh. Its bright!
Mine is soon to be XM-L2 T6 3C/SinkPAD, reprogrammed and rewired with teflon wires. If only I could kick my bum to it! XD
It’s at 3.5A for me.
It is bright, I’m not sure how well the Pana 2900mAh is going to feed those amps for you, but my new Sanyo 2600mAh is not very good at giving the max amperage for a long time, the voltage drops and so does the draw.
TF 26650, works well 
Feeds anything for quite some time.
Never thought I would EDC a 26650 light, but I have been doing so for the past month after I found a suitable holster. I think I want to swap out the LED for XM-L2. I’m craving a more neutral color, not the greenish tint that I have now. Any suggestions where to get one already on a 20mm board?
FastTech has some I think, IntOutdoor had some but it is all gone along with XP-G2s.
I got mine from Illum. Supply. and reflow them on SinkPADs.
I will make it XM-L2 T6 3C since I ruined my XP-G2 before testing it in this combination.
Neutral? Only Ilum. Supply or mouser, or digikey and such. Nobody else has them otherwise as far as I know.
Check XM-L2 threads.
is there really a reflector difference? they look identical to me?
I have the M10 with xml2 & 105c driver and love it!
I have it in parts, driver change.
The only thing I dislike about it is the aluminum pill, not a big deal but that there is no driver ring for 17mm drivers only 20mm ones. Have to solder the 17mm in to the ring, no way to solder to the aluminum pill or make a conversion board to 20mm.
Light rocks otherwise.
I had some trouble soldering the17mm driver to the ring. Make sure it is clean and use flux (I used a flux pen) My problem was I was in too much of a hurry to get it done and go out and play :bigsmile:
