i do like floody lights. go with a kd c8 instead of the convoy’s. i have both and the kd c8 is brighter, throws further, warmer tint, floodier, and biggger spill.
but the c8 and c12 have the same reflector?….i’m undecided :~
which is the best thrower?…i have a Ultrafire c8 but i want to buy one oh these two only if they are really better with this XM-L2
They supposedly have the same reflector. They look the same to me, but the beam from all my 12’s seem bigger (hot spot wise). I like it much better. Probably just my imagination.
anybody received C12 XM-L2 from lightmalls yet?
I have it ordered, and have the tracking #, but it’s still not working. These holidays kill me :(…
[quote=ohaya]
I had seen some posts about “disappointing” performance with the C12:
So is just the C12s from that one seller that are problematic, and the ones from lightsmall are good?
I have a couple of C8s, and have been interested in trying a C12, but had been avoiding them because of that thread.[/quote. Same here I am also always looking for brighter faster stronger but read some disappointing reviews of some C12s ill wait to see how this pans out but really appreciate your reviews and updates!
G
[quote=light junkie]
[quote=ohaya]
I had seen some posts about “disappointing” performance with the C12:
So is just the C12s from that one seller that are problematic, and the ones from lightsmall are good?
I have a couple of C8s, and have been interested in trying a C12, but had been avoiding them because of that thread.
[/quote. Same here I am also always looking for brighter faster stronger but read some disappointing reviews of some C12s ill wait to see how this pans out but really appreciate your reviews and updates!
G[/quote]
From what I understand Lightmalls had a problem with the U3 version of the C12. I think they got a bad batch of emitters. the XM-L2 U2 that I got from them is great. So far though nobody else has gotten theirs yet to confirm that all of them are good ones.
C12 has memory or it starts always at high mode? it doesn’t matter because i don’t want only it doesn’ t start at the next mode!
But from lightmalls there is a discount code for members od BLF? thank you
They have discounts once in a while but I would use their chat service and ask them personally. They will probably knock off a few bucks. I believe Sunny is the name of the lady I have talked with and she was very helpful.
yup sunny is who i always talk with . i always thought sunny was a male hahah. he/she is very helpful and nice.
thank you! I have ordered C12 with XM-L2 but without discount 
…however i hope to remain satisfied with the light:)
[quote=18sixfifty]
[quote=light junkie]
I just received my C12 from Lightmalls.com. Ordered 4/27/2013 Received 5/9/2013.
Specifically, it’s this C12:
http://www.lightmalls.com/ultrafire-c12-1-cree-xm-l2-5-modes-led-flashlight-1-18650-battery
Emitter is suppose to be XM-L2.
I measured the tailcap current on high, and it’s ~2.2 amps. Does anyone know if that is what’s expected?
The reason I ask is I have a C8 with XM-L T6 that I bought from Amazon, and I am measuring 4+ amps tailcap from that one, and another C8, a Convoy C8, from FastTech, and that is measuring 2.8 amps, so I’m kind of feeling that the C12 I got from Lightmalls is somewhat under-driven?
Thanks,
Jim
Probably should check for high resistance points. The switches in this guys are a little finicky. Generally the retaining ring in the tail cap is not snugged down. But it is a good chance to open it up and put some copper braid in that long spring in there. Also, solder the spring to the switch and to the brass cap.
Also, check for loose pill. Might as will put copper braid in that spring too. If you want to do it right, put some Noalox on the pill threads. Also check heat sink connection between the emitter and pill. etc, etc, etc. All the standard stuff you should do to any budget light.
EDIT: If you think you may return the light, just do the stuff that doesn’t change the light from oem.
Hi,
I realized/remembered a recent lesson… that battery makes a difference, so I’ve been going through a bunch of my 18650s, testing tailcap current after my post.
Most of my 18650s are laptop pulls at this point, but anyway, the bottom line is that I found a number of Panasonics that when used in this C12, would show tailcap current of ~3 amps. These same batteries show ~4 amps on a (unmodded) C8 that has an XM-L T6 that I got off of Amazon about a month ago (I really think that I got lucky on that one).
That (3 amps) is better, but I’m still wondering what is a “good” tailcap current for an unmodded C12? Is 3 amps ok? Or is it still low?
cant believe mine still hasnt arrived, been almost 3 weeks.
so is the c12 not as bright as your other lights you mentioned?
It’s hard to tell.
I have a bunch (like maybe 4-5… lost count) of C8s, each different from different places.
The one I mentioned, with the XM-L T6, has been a total surprise, because I wasn’t expecting it to be very bright (I also have a C8 with a Z7/P7, which has been a real disappointment), but up until today, I think it was pretty much the brightest of the lot. I do have another one where I force-fed a P60 pill down it’s throat, which I think throws better, but I think the XM-L T6 one is brighter.
After getting the C12, it’s pretty much neck-and-neck with the XM-L T6 one, and remember that XM-L T6 is measuring 4 amps tailcap current vs. about 3 amps for the C12. The beams look, to my un-educated eye, very similar.
I did note that the C12 has an OP reflector, and I’ve been thinking about trying an SMO reflector to see what that does.
I would like to know what is “normal good” for an out-of-box C12? Can anybody venture an opinion?
And then, from there, I’ll decide if I want to mod it, or maybe ask/beg someone else here to mod it for me.
Edit: blueb8llz, when did you order? Based on tracking my shipment, the lights land in Flushing, NY first, for me at least, so maybe your shipment comes into NY, then goes back west to CA?
Usually, we strive for a solid +3A measured at the tail in these type of lights. Depending on the driver, XML2 can lower that draw by a few tenths of an ampere when compared to XML. I think you’re at the point where you could probably use a good set of new cells and a light meter to better appreciate the hobby. Both will open up a whole new world to you and are relatively inexpensive.
Funny you should mention that. After I figured out how to get to the 3 amps (with different battery), I ordered several of the efest IMR 18650s off of ebay.
For the lux meter, I’m planning to win texaspro’s giveaway :)…
What does your tracking numbers say? Don’t understand why NY (ohaya) gets first before CA (you) when coming from China. Anyway you should be getting them any day now.
Hi,
I should clarify something. The 3 amps I’m measuring is by putting my meter (in current measuring mode) from the negative end of the battery to the un-anodized part of the the flashlight body. So, even though I was calling it the “tailcap current”, the tailcap isn’t in the circuit when I measure this current.
I’ve checked the switch and it was already snug… in fact so snug that I could barely unscrew it. I eventually was able to disassemble it using tweezers, and everything looked ok there. The spring was already soldered to the contact board, at 3 points, and I checked them visually with a magnifying glass.
I don’t have any solder wick braid, so I didn’t add that to either the spring at the switch end or at the positive end yet, but I’ll do that once I pick some up.
Given that clarification about how I’m measuring current (basically, it’s the current going into the driver), is ~3 amps “ok” for this C12, out-of-box?